Yes you should be Okay. Just next time solder the ESC (if it needs it) first (before cutting the wires to length) and then mount the ESC and motor before you cut the wires to length and solder them to the motor. Just call it a 'lesson learned'.

With another vehicle you might have to scrap your wires and get new ones (assuming that you even CAN do that with your ESC/Motor). Luckily this truck has sturdy nerf bars to protect from side impacts that might damage your ESC/wires. I seriously doubt that it'll be a problem for you down the road.

BUT...if you are a basher, or if you drive like a newbie, then you might want to fix it right. Up to you!

I posted this up twice before and it must have gotten lost in the shuffle. I spoke to Chris at AE and he said to loosen the front and rear tensioners. Im running pretty loose and it happened again! The front Pulley and Flange are locked up tight into the front gearbox! Any help would be appreciated!

Sal

Hey guys, I have been racking my brain trying to figure out why The front Flange and Pulley would lock up to the front trans case! I tightened down the Clicker until it stopped clicking like in the video on AE's site. Pulled throttle and the car went about 30 feet and then the rear wheels wouldn't turn and the front was locked up solid. I couldn't move the belt when I opened the covers. Seems the front flange and pulley had gotten stuck to the trans case! pulled it apart, put it back together and it did it again after a very short burst of throttle. There is no binding anywhere else it the drivetrain. I made sure the screws in the trans case weren't hitting the flange too. This morning I ran the truck and I had no noise from the clicker when I rolled it like in the video. After the 25 minute run I did the same thing and now it was clicking! Im afraid to make the nut too tight so as to make it lock up the front trans again. Hope someone can give me some insight on this.

Pictures are worth a thousand words.

My emulsion shocks (which I enjoy) are leaking pretty good. First Ideas? Cap too tight? Coyote's an idiot?

I'm game. It's out the bladder bleed hole.

Don't have the truck in front of me. Didnt have time to get the covers off at work (grin). When I open the belt covers I wont be able to move the belt at all. The front pulley and flange are stuck in place! I had to pry it off the last two times. I dont want to run the belt too loose, but it may have to be.

Thanks for the response at least...more than I got the last two times I posted

Chris was a gentleman on the phone....major props to the AE guys! Contacted Richard Saxton on FB and he shot me a message to talk to Chris. I may just have to go get the truck to work on tonight...lol.

Sal

Make sure the emulsion shock orings that replace the bladders are installed correctly. I made this mistake the first time I built them. Easy to get them backwards.

I had this problem and it turned out that I didn't have the oring seal properly seated in the cap. Also, according to AE you have to be careful not to tighten the caps down too much or you distort/destroy the seal which can cause the leak as well.

Yeah... I was afraid of that.

I couldn't find anywhere that stated a direction. I'll get on it.


Thanks guys. /emulsionnoobout!

Just take cover off and snap a shot with your phone when you can

Is the flange stuck to the front belt cover?

Yeah, I dont quite understand what exacly he is talking about?

Grobe, I have the 6.5 in my truck. It's fine on a tight track, tons of bottom end, not a lot of top, but you should be able to gear up a little. What speedo are you running? Little boost and turbo would wake it up, but wouldn't run a lot. Waiting for my speedo with boost/turbo to get back so I can try it. Will probably end up with the 4.5 also.

Sym, does the problem Pastaboy is having sound like what Sourdiesel ran into? You fixed it so I don't remember exactly what it was, but was the pulley on backwards?

Hey Craig

With the basket where are you starting out or ending up at on the settings. You flush to nut , back inside a bit ,

I am starting out just a bit inside with some loctite to keep from coming apart.

Jaime

If you lawn dart you truck a lot the belt assembly will start to bow and cause the front pulley to bind!

If te front clicker flang piece is rubbig on the belt cover, either it is assembled incorrectly or you have bad parts. when the belt cover is tightend to the diff case, and the clicker flnge is installed onto the topshaft, there should be no touching between the two of them. There are several things that could cause them to touch. If you dont have a spacer on the topshaft inside of the diff, so tha the topshaft can be pushed into the diff, that could cause rubbing. Or maybe you have the spacers in there, but they are to thin, ie a bad part.

First thing I would do is check for excesiveplay in the front topshaft. Second thing I would do is check to see if the flage in any way shape or form is touching the belt cover.

Sour's truck still has or had something going on with it, but I dont think they have the same issue, we'll get it figured out if you havent already done so Sour. It seems that alot of people have put the pullies on backwards causing belt issues. When Mantis got his truck used, the person who assembled the truck put the pullies on backwards and had the rear cva pins partialy sticking out between the bearing and the axle itself, which caused extreme binding when the wheels were tightened down. No wonder the guy thought the truck didnt drive well