I was kind of wondering like the other two have asked...


Craig's talking about the pinned rear, pics included. Not really a question there from you guys. (I hope)

- But a couple of you are also saying a "pinned front shaft" :IE- 'Wtf you talkin' bout' willis?'


Craig (I believe?) was saying using a Traxxas hinge pin. Hardened steel and thicker. The hex pin will be too short and dinky.

has the RTR version came out yet if so what yours thoughts on it

You can see on Tower Hobbies that it isn't due out until Mid November.

Maybe some entrepenuering (misspelled) person could offer to drill & pin the rear lay shaft & slipper hub for a small fee?? MTK maybe? I personally don't have the equipment to do it, but I wouldn't mind sending a layshaft and a slipper hub to be pinned...what do you guys think?

I'd be willing to do it for you, just sending it to me, as a favor. But I haven't even done the modification myself "yet". I have all the equipment (drill press, blocks, and vice) to do it properly. I just don't think i'm the first choice. If there isn't another who offers or someone who spurs your confidence to do it yourself, send me a PM.

I love the clicker unlocked. I can point an shoot at the apex of a tight turn and let the rear of the truck slide around ( very controlable )
You loose some on the braking ( because it only breakes on the rear )
you have to watch your jumps. it is a bit harder to get the nose down because of the front freewheeling off power and under breaking

Im not saying you will run your laps faster, but it is a very nice way of driving this truck. I really like it.
very smooth, non agressive way of driving

( note : i dont have to compete the losi's that much as you USA guys )
most trucks here are AE / durango . just 1 fast guy with a losi, I just let him go.

Just sharing some pics of my SC10 4x4 project. Pretty much stock. Only items upgraded are the following:

Garodisc pads
ST Racing alum steering bellcrank system
ST Racing alum belt tensioner pullies
Alum servo horn
AKA Enduro Soft with red inserts
JConcepts Hazard 3mm offset wheels
Blue alum lock nuts (4mm/3mm).......

Other pics....

We just can't let that go.

Looks good...congrats!!

To those that have built shocks with 1 std o-ring,did you put anything in place of the missing o-ring or just leave it bare?

I have trackstar 0-rings coming but won't have them for the weekend.

I left it bare, just one x-ring on bottom. You'll like trackstar o-rings

The diff fluid was to slow down steering but the shims I never thought of for slowing down steering. your lowering roll center by raising them which should INCREASE bite. Taking them out will Cause Push.

I know with my truck moving the front Inner ball stud to the inside gave me more on power steering during corner and exit.

this is probably going to start a war but here is what i noticed with the RC shims (roll center) lowering the shims gave me more initial bite but less mid and exit steering raising them worked the opposite. is that not the effect you are getting? even yesterday while testing this is what i did, my quickest times were when i removed the shims and went from 4mm to 2mm. i get the same effect in TC.

Henry i used green slime with a loose O ring in the bottom slot and they are perfect!

No war. this is how we figure these trucks out.

you said "lowering the shims gave me more initial bite but less mid and exit steering... raising them worked the opposite"


What confused me is earlier in the thread you stated you needed more exit steering. but here your saying lowering the shims takes the exit away..but yet you got faster.


I haven't noticed a big change when raising or lowering. the exit steering i gained was when i moved the ball stud from the outside to the inside location on the tower. The general rule is that less = more push on exit.

If you got faster with less shims. then I need to try it out. I'm currently at 4mm front and rear. which was 2 or 3mm less than what Kinwald was running.