SC10 4x4 Thread
#8372
Think of it as putting diff lock in a center diff of a 1/8th scale buggy, or running a Slash 4x4 without the optional center differential,
#8373
Maybe I should have said it a different way. I am a racer not just a basher.
#8374
1. Remove shaft from transmission.
2. Reassemble shaft without belt pulley (see picture in step 4)
3. locate a pin, Perfect size pin for me was the end of a Traxxas hinge pin. find correct size drill bit.
4. I recommend a drill press with a vise. or a very steady hand. Drill hole through the center of the slipper back plate. flat part of slipper disc acts as a guide so it is easy to drill a hole into the round shaft. and this will help you locate the exact position to drill as well.

5. Disassemble, now take slipper disc and notch it so it can slide over pin like a wheel hex. Notch by sanding or grinding the plastic belt pulley so it also slips over pin.

6. cut pin to fit within the square of the slipper disc.

7. Reassamble transmission with pin.

8.Slide pulley on

9. slip disc back in

10. Reassemble and verify that the slipper unit spins without wobbling. if it wobbles. you might need to to grind some material away from the high side to balance it out.

The belt pulley holds pin inside so you never lose it.
You will gain acceleration and braking. more corner entry speed and exit speed. and equal slipper action which makes truck more stable to me.
Sorry for crap pictures/dirty truck. i haven't cleaned it since i raced it Saturday night.
2. Reassemble shaft without belt pulley (see picture in step 4)
3. locate a pin, Perfect size pin for me was the end of a Traxxas hinge pin. find correct size drill bit.
4. I recommend a drill press with a vise. or a very steady hand. Drill hole through the center of the slipper back plate. flat part of slipper disc acts as a guide so it is easy to drill a hole into the round shaft. and this will help you locate the exact position to drill as well.

5. Disassemble, now take slipper disc and notch it so it can slide over pin like a wheel hex. Notch by sanding or grinding the plastic belt pulley so it also slips over pin.
6. cut pin to fit within the square of the slipper disc.

7. Reassamble transmission with pin.
8.Slide pulley on
9. slip disc back in
10. Reassemble and verify that the slipper unit spins without wobbling. if it wobbles. you might need to to grind some material away from the high side to balance it out.
The belt pulley holds pin inside so you never lose it.
You will gain acceleration and braking. more corner entry speed and exit speed. and equal slipper action which makes truck more stable to me.
Sorry for crap pictures/dirty truck. i haven't cleaned it since i raced it Saturday night.
Last edited by 1Fastpede; 10-10-2011 at 05:07 PM.
#8375
The inside aluminum slipper plate gets pinned to the shaft, eliminating the front from benefitting from the slipper, but it then gives the rear both slipper pads.
Think of it as putting diff lock in a center diff of a 1/8th scale buggy, or running a Slash 4x4 without the optional center differential,
Think of it as putting diff lock in a center diff of a 1/8th scale buggy, or running a Slash 4x4 without the optional center differential,
#8376
hmmm if the spur gear is not attached to the pulley that drives the front than it will still slip if the slipper slips. by pinning the front pulley to the shaft it connects the front and the rear together so that the slipper equally slips to the front and rear. it seems to me that if you want to lock the front down and allow slippage to the rear only then you must pin the front pulley to the spur gear so that they are 1:1 at all times. i believe this is how Craig explains it and it seems correct to me.
#8377
So I have an idea.. I run my slipper all the way tight (thats just how I drive). So that decoupled slipper really isnt doing anything for me I'd assume. So.. What if someone made a one piece slipper unit with the slipper plates and spur gear build into one unit so theres no slip... And use the spring as a kinda of adjustable center diff... Any thoughts? And does anyone have an idea on how I could use the decoupled slipper even though i tighten mine down all the way???
#8378
This isnt to lock the front. its to provide more grip to the front. the slipper setup is subpar for 4x4 and leaves you with one slipper pad per drive. which equates to alot of slip. the 2wd trucks have more grip with using 2 pads for one drive. so by pinning it you use both pads together which equal an identical percentage of slip applied to each drive. and with added clutch basket you can then control the amount of slip with improved grip. the basket is a must in my eyes.
with that being said all you would need to do is drill and tap four holes in the rear plate and the same four holes countersunk in the spur gear. if you use the basket you will still have two disc providing slip control for the rear.
#8379
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,882
From: Florida
1. Remove shaft from transmission.
2. Reassemble shaft without belt pulley (see picture in step 4)
3. locate a pin, Perfect size pin for me was the end of a Traxxas hinge pin. find correct size drill bit.
4. I recommend a drill press with a vise. or a very steady hand. Drill hole through the center of the slipper back plate. flat part of slipper disc acts as a guide so it is easy to drill a hole into the round shaft. and this will help you locate the exact position to drill as well.

5. Disassemble, now take slipper disc and notch it so it can slide over pin like a wheel hex. Notch by sanding or grinding the plastic belt pulley so it also slips over pin.

6. cut pin to fit within the square of the slipper disc.

7. Reassamble transmission with pin.

8.Slide pulley on

9. slip disc back in

10. Reassemble and verify that the slipper unit spins without wobbling. if it wobbles. you might need to to grind some material away from the high side to balance it out.

The belt pulley holds pin inside so you never lose it.
You will gain acceleration and braking. more corner entry speed and exit speed. and equal slipper action which makes truck more stable to me.
Sorry for crap pictures/dirty truck. i haven't cleaned it since i raced it Saturday night.
2. Reassemble shaft without belt pulley (see picture in step 4)
3. locate a pin, Perfect size pin for me was the end of a Traxxas hinge pin. find correct size drill bit.
4. I recommend a drill press with a vise. or a very steady hand. Drill hole through the center of the slipper back plate. flat part of slipper disc acts as a guide so it is easy to drill a hole into the round shaft. and this will help you locate the exact position to drill as well.

5. Disassemble, now take slipper disc and notch it so it can slide over pin like a wheel hex. Notch by sanding or grinding the plastic belt pulley so it also slips over pin.
6. cut pin to fit within the square of the slipper disc.

7. Reassamble transmission with pin.
8.Slide pulley on
9. slip disc back in
10. Reassemble and verify that the slipper unit spins without wobbling. if it wobbles. you might need to to grind some material away from the high side to balance it out.
The belt pulley holds pin inside so you never lose it.
You will gain acceleration and braking. more corner entry speed and exit speed. and equal slipper action which makes truck more stable to me.
Sorry for crap pictures/dirty truck. i haven't cleaned it since i raced it Saturday night.


One more question What belt gears you guys using with this mod?
#8380
#8383
1Fast,
Is that the Clutch basket in the last pic is it???
What is that, 2 slipper pads on top of each other under the slipper hub???
Looks like the RCSHOX slipper& a HD pad???
I think i see now, it is the basket??? what pad r u using with the basket??
thx, looks like a great idea
j
Is that the Clutch basket in the last pic is it???
What is that, 2 slipper pads on top of each other under the slipper hub???
Looks like the RCSHOX slipper& a HD pad???
I think i see now, it is the basket??? what pad r u using with the basket??
thx, looks like a great idea
j
Last edited by jpure009; 10-10-2011 at 07:48 PM. Reason: notice basket
#8384
i agree , but i wonder how it would handle if the slipper only controlled the rear and the front remained locked down? seems to me that it may benefit even more so than controlling slip to both especially when you dont really need the front to slip. the rear is the culprit!
with that being said all you would need to do is drill and tap four holes in the rear plate and the same four holes countersunk in the spur gear. if you use the basket you will still have two disc providing slip control for the rear.
with that being said all you would need to do is drill and tap four holes in the rear plate and the same four holes countersunk in the spur gear. if you use the basket you will still have two disc providing slip control for the rear.
#8385
So i finally got to race my 4x4 on Sunday. Man I tell you, what a different animal. It took me 2 good packs to get used to the truck ( and the track). I am in love with this thing. I have been driving 1/8 scale nitro for the last decade and last year bought a 2wd SC but this 4wd is way different. You can be a little harder on the gas but still have to be easy in the corners and durring breaking. The only issue I have is it seams my truck is a little slower on the top end than the other trucks. The track is mostly medium traction and there are not alot of long starights, which was good for me. Top 3 in the main were trading places all race and all 3 finished within 3 seconds of each other. I got 3rd. Not a bad debut for me in a new class.
Here is my set-up
Tekin RX8/ SCX 4.5 motor
62/12 gearing w/ stock pullies
5k diffs front and rear
shocks 30wt front and rear
no sway bars
clicker set at 2mm for heats then 2.5 mm for main
slipper set at 3mm all day. didnt really fell like it was slipping
had JC Subcultures all around on for the heats and put DD's on the rear for the main.
with the drag break at zero, ths motor still has alot of drag ( is that normal)
running a 30c lipo, I only got about 9 minutes of run time then the ESC got hot or got to my LVC, but with my 25c, I finished the 12minute main no problem. The 30c is new, has about 2 full runs on it. i did cyle it 5 times to about 70% before that. motor temped at 150-160 with the 30c and 135-140 with the 25c.
I did mess witht the timing on the motor a little before the second heat but didnt like the way it felt ao I split the difference from stock setting to where I had it ( maybe about 8-10 degrees when I was finished).
So can anyone help me get a little speed on this thing and a little more run time. I am willing to sacurfice some speed for time but may need it at some other tracks with long straights.
Here is my set-up
Tekin RX8/ SCX 4.5 motor
62/12 gearing w/ stock pullies
5k diffs front and rear
shocks 30wt front and rear
no sway bars
clicker set at 2mm for heats then 2.5 mm for main
slipper set at 3mm all day. didnt really fell like it was slipping
had JC Subcultures all around on for the heats and put DD's on the rear for the main.
with the drag break at zero, ths motor still has alot of drag ( is that normal)
running a 30c lipo, I only got about 9 minutes of run time then the ESC got hot or got to my LVC, but with my 25c, I finished the 12minute main no problem. The 30c is new, has about 2 full runs on it. i did cyle it 5 times to about 70% before that. motor temped at 150-160 with the 30c and 135-140 with the 25c.
I did mess witht the timing on the motor a little before the second heat but didnt like the way it felt ao I split the difference from stock setting to where I had it ( maybe about 8-10 degrees when I was finished).
So can anyone help me get a little speed on this thing and a little more run time. I am willing to sacurfice some speed for time but may need it at some other tracks with long straights.



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