True, most of Spain does on road. I'll go with a 95%. I did find a few good spots to bash at and tried to get the track set up on base but that was a long time to do.

Just ordered my SC10 4x4 last week, should be here tomorrow. This is my jump back into RC racing, have been out for quite a few years, last RC I owned was back when b2's were the hot thing. I have been doing a bit of research on little bits of this and that, I have the Tekin Pro4 4600kv on back order and am debating picking up the Tekin RX8, haven't made a decision on a radio just yet though, just wanted to throw my hellos in there

+1. Internal shock limiters can help also, but can affect the droop settings like someone said earlier. Every 1/10 AE I've ever owned (except the front of B4) has had an excess of downtravel. Don't have my 4wd yet, but guessing a combo of limiters and sway bars will be the ticket.

You got yourself a good motor. With the tekin RX8 alot of people run that esc and love it. I like the LRP esc's. They are expensivie though.

Anyone have any suggestions on what diff oil to run. Going to try something diffrent for the indoor season. The surface is Yellow clay.

LRP's new iX8 is coming in at essentially the same price as the RX8 according to many of the online stores. I'm getting excited! I love my RX8, but I'm so looking forward to the iX8.

Lower your roll centre by raising your upper camber link. (Put a few spacers under the ball stud) I put 3mm under both front and back I found this SERIOUSLY helped keep the truck from rolling over too much. I still haven't installed my swaybars yet and I really feel the truck is much more stable through the corners.

Shocks have a limited amount of travel, and unfortunately, this truck's CVDs bind in the diff outdrives when the shocks travel all the way up (beyond bottoming out the truck on a flat surface). By limiting the shock from travelling that far, you can prevent the CVDs from getting caught in the outdrives. You still get a large USEABLE range of movement, and you can help prevent your CVDs from bending, and your diffs from prematurely wearing.

I like 30k front and 7k rear for whatever clay we are running on. When the track is prepped and packed, I felt that this was the best setup for my truck.

ok so here is a weird thing I have 30k front and 5k rear, shocks are inside top and bottom on front and middle outside on the back. I have the camber links on the front on the inside with 2mm spacers and on the back inside with no spacers and in the middle at the hub, its the same as my buddys truck but here is my issue My truck is extremely nervous feeling not just planted and I can drive it fast but I have to be extremely on top of it or it will over rotate or roll. I am on a high bite clay that is bumpy and my shock oil is 27.5 f/r any ideas.

Thanks. I'll give that a try and see how well it works. I'm going to pay a visit to the track tomorrow, no work or school to worry about so I'll be able to do various set ups to see how well it preforms.
+1 on 30k in the front and 7k in the rear for clay. I tried 30&60k in the front this weekend and I race on a dirt/clay mixture the 60 worked pretty good but a little to good.

alright guys, lets see if someone can help me. Im so frustrated i want to throw this thing in the trash can lol. im running a mamba max, sc401, and a associated 1015. the truck is awesome i love the power and now that i have the steering issue fixed im still stuck in a bind!! whenever i turn the steering all the way right and all the way left the trucks power cuts out. what the eff am i doing wrong? i know im new but shiiittttt this is getting confusing. Im running a glitch buster, do i need a castle bec? i can only drive straight and turn maybe 40% without it cutting out. As soon as its a full 100% the truck stops until i let off the steering. Do you guys know what it is? i will buy a bec if that will help.

I am not sure what all you have tried. I would turn my steering end points way down so that the wheels are not close to locking all the way left and right. Slowly ad more to the endpoint until the first wheel hits the max that it can turn. Make sure you have no bind on the servo. Once that is set that is the max the servo should ever turn in that direction. Maybe you are just binding at the end. If not I would suggest testing with another servo if you have one. The BEC is nice but I am not sure it is a requriement.

yeah ive been trying to mess with the end points but its still giving me problems. i have to drop it to about 40% till it stops cutting out. Im just stuck man, no idea what the issue is

Mamba Max BEC has issues. Everyone around here that has one in a Short has had issues with brown-outs when there was too much load on the system. Get yourself a BEC to power your RX instead of using the BEC in the ESC. Just make sure you wire it up properly! (I think it's the red wire you need to remove from the RX plug from the ESC.)

Man your dead on with the brown outs, i have one on my sc10 2wd and it has brown outs all day long. can i take that off of the 2wd and just run it in line with the rx on my sc10 4x4?