RC10B4.1 FT/WC
09-10-2011 | 07:28 AM
#5791
I go through my transmission every two weeks but rebuild the diff about every two months. Using all ceramic balls, sanded rings and proper break-in, it's smooth for a very long time.
09-10-2011 | 08:18 AM
#5792
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,739
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFDV2&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFDV1&P=7
AE #7440 vs. AE #7441
It's not the only part number but it seems to be the correct one as to not get the stiffer carbon chassis of old....$17 cheaper too
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFDV1&P=7
AE #7440 vs. AE #7441
It's not the only part number but it seems to be the correct one as to not get the stiffer carbon chassis of old....$17 cheaper too
Like Matt said, when they went to the "4.1" kits, they just began using what used to be the old school RTR plastic, so things like arms, towers, and chassis', just use the same old part numbers because they've always had the parts.
Most everyone that's been making the extended chassis' has been using the "RTR" (now FT) chassis, which is what they use on the new kits from the get go.
Most everyone that's been making the extended chassis' has been using the "RTR" (now FT) chassis, which is what they use on the new kits from the get go.
Actually we have been using the original plastic chassis and not the newer 4.1 plastics. Reason is because that is all that available. I talked to AE's team manager a while back and he said that the reason they made all of their chassis' out of the old plastic is because that's all they had. So I'm guessing it's going to be awhile before we see the new .1 plastic chassis.
Yeah I guess I was just referring to using the part number as them, isn't the plastic itself the same though? Unless it's supposed to be the stiffness of the B44 plastic. I can't see them not selling any parts in the plastic if the new kits actually do have a different formula than what the original "plastic" was.
In the end you want the #7440, which is what I ordered. My point was to simply point out that it's not the ONLY part number/chassis available.
09-10-2011 | 10:39 AM
#5794
Tech Adept
iTrader: (22)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 185
From: So Cal
its not the chassis that matters. the 4.1 rear towers have more clearance for the battery strap. in a 4.1 it will fit much easier than an old "4" tower.
this was a rolling change because lipos are alittle taller than nimhs that the b4/t4 was designed for.
that being said, YES the gens will fit in the b4.1 chassis. in a t4, generally you dont run your battery all the way back (atleast 1 spacer in the rear)
but if you meant on a b4, yes it is tight, untill you change to a b4.1 rear tower.
this was a rolling change because lipos are alittle taller than nimhs that the b4/t4 was designed for.
that being said, YES the gens will fit in the b4.1 chassis. in a t4, generally you dont run your battery all the way back (atleast 1 spacer in the rear)
but if you meant on a b4, yes it is tight, untill you change to a b4.1 rear tower.
So the 4.1 rear tower will fit on a 4.0 chassis?
09-10-2011 | 12:38 PM
#5797
09-10-2011 | 04:15 PM
#5799
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 7,374
From: Minnesota
I think the b44 front wheels are smaller hex than normal, at least smaller than 22, or RB5 rears anyways..They will work as the 22 fronts..anyone looking for some, I have like 4-5 pair of white Jc Rulux B44 fronts new out of package..
09-10-2011 | 06:05 PM
#5801
Tech Addict
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 662
From: Springfield,OR
THANKS
09-10-2011 | 08:37 PM
#5803
#9881 - Front Axle/Hex
Then you just need some drive pins, and axle shims. I already had hexes on the rear of my B4.1 (RB5 rear hexes), so I went ahead and bought
#7497, which includes all the pins, and some hexes for my B4.
Brad
09-10-2011 | 11:07 PM
#5804
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 356
From: NJ
Ok guys a couple things here that i did and notice since signing with AE/REEDY/LRP/JC.
For the v2 shocks, i tested all the orings (xrings,stock,tsr(recommend from paul wynn) and even tried the combo.. Butstill seems the stock orings seem to be the best,with freeness,bind,and life. One tip i have been doing is pretty much storing orings in green slime, like buy couple packs combind and squirt some slime in and rub around and seal and store like that till next time you replace. As for the black spacer in between ya it does seem a little odd, for one it looks like a octagon,and it a fraction too big so either snad it down or simply use the white ones.
I have the plus 8 chassis and it seems like u need to add weight to the front triangle like you do to the rear triangles car just seems even more smoother and when the weight shifts from back to front calms it down.
My 1st race with the car was 2 weeks ago at a trophy race so there was practice for hr and then right into qual and the track gain tracion like a tc track an the owner was sugar watering it,every round turned blacker and blacker to the point of the 3rd round losi driver3 were running bk bars/taper front and burning them off in 4 min but.
But since i still need to get stuff striaght i ran a x12 10.5 24/81 but honestly it didnt matter i was having diff and slipper probs come to find out. Umm i use ae cermics diff balls/bfast rings/bfast thrustrings and cermic balls. do you think with going with all cermics it didnt have enough grip to grab the rings? Alsoi did the slipper setting on the bench 3inches high method but seemed like i only slipped the outer pad as it wasglazed overbig time? O GET THIS THIS IS THE GODS HONEST TRUTH. My good freind FACTORTY driver recent onroad nats champ JEFF CUFFs decided to come out and try his hand at offroand which he didnt do to bad for have dyed rims/colored ballcups/big rpm bumper the works but he also had diff prob... but he used stock everything except ae cermic balls. He literlyrebuilt his diff 2 time in 4 races and had to replace diffrings both time as they were bent!!!! yes BENT!!! what could it be the AE ceramics are that good and qualityu cant set tight casue balls are too hard? anyone else with this?
At first when brad was trying to figure out a way to use 1 rim for the T4.1 i was to but i was going the wrong way as i was trying to figure a way to mount the quick change to the front but thats alot more uneed weight for nothing on the out side of the car.
OK now i have some other questions for you. My next big race is gonna be at the JC indoor nats at rc excitment havent race indoor electric since i went to crcrc and adam drake was running electic classes and toddhodge was there.. so im sure things have changed.. From what i gathered so far GOLD,BLUE,GREEN barcodes and they pretty much dont wear at all.. Do i need traction compound? or is once of them tracks that has different size threads for each round...
1) i just started building my T4.1 kit its gonna be an carbon copy of my B4.1.
- I needto drill a "0"hole on the rear shock tower to lean them in more
- do i still run the weightsin the rear triangle/rear ballast/and next to rec.
- everyone telling me to copy cav setup for it, latest one i found was the surf city one in 2010is that it?
- do they run kyosho springs on the t4.1?
- Prob gonna run a 8.5 lrp in truck with a sxx tc v2 what kinda gearing for that motor and timing/speedo settings
2)Back to the B4.1 imgonna run the reedy sonic 8.5/sxx v2 any ideas on gearing ,timing,and speedo setup.
- stupid question even though its a short neckball stud why do they have a black one and a silver one i mean obviously i replaced them with the new ae gold ti ones but still?
- Any certian shock lengths for either B4/T4
3) and lastly i promise im gonna run 3classes leaning toward 4wd mod or sc4x4 but there backorderedso i might be going with a b44.1
- anything special to this kit/ i noticed some guys ru the alum tower/case upper mounts some dont,mayfeild steering mod?,doubling up on front tower? what about other aftermarket parts for this car?
- whats starting setup/build tips ext.
-i already have a sxxtc v2 waiting for either a b44.1 or a sc4x4 but what motor do i want/lrp,or sonic/timin/gearing/speedo settings?
Thanks again guys i appreicate this alot its alot of info coming at me all at once and coming from driving forlosi for 10+ years im struggling here so any little bit is helping
And also i ask some question a few pages back and guys started the bs like well if ur sponsored why r u asking questions and all... so please see wereim coming from here.. thanks in advance
For the v2 shocks, i tested all the orings (xrings,stock,tsr(recommend from paul wynn) and even tried the combo.. Butstill seems the stock orings seem to be the best,with freeness,bind,and life. One tip i have been doing is pretty much storing orings in green slime, like buy couple packs combind and squirt some slime in and rub around and seal and store like that till next time you replace. As for the black spacer in between ya it does seem a little odd, for one it looks like a octagon,and it a fraction too big so either snad it down or simply use the white ones.
I have the plus 8 chassis and it seems like u need to add weight to the front triangle like you do to the rear triangles car just seems even more smoother and when the weight shifts from back to front calms it down.
My 1st race with the car was 2 weeks ago at a trophy race so there was practice for hr and then right into qual and the track gain tracion like a tc track an the owner was sugar watering it,every round turned blacker and blacker to the point of the 3rd round losi driver3 were running bk bars/taper front and burning them off in 4 min but.
But since i still need to get stuff striaght i ran a x12 10.5 24/81 but honestly it didnt matter i was having diff and slipper probs come to find out. Umm i use ae cermics diff balls/bfast rings/bfast thrustrings and cermic balls. do you think with going with all cermics it didnt have enough grip to grab the rings? Alsoi did the slipper setting on the bench 3inches high method but seemed like i only slipped the outer pad as it wasglazed overbig time? O GET THIS THIS IS THE GODS HONEST TRUTH. My good freind FACTORTY driver recent onroad nats champ JEFF CUFFs decided to come out and try his hand at offroand which he didnt do to bad for have dyed rims/colored ballcups/big rpm bumper the works but he also had diff prob... but he used stock everything except ae cermic balls. He literlyrebuilt his diff 2 time in 4 races and had to replace diffrings both time as they were bent!!!! yes BENT!!! what could it be the AE ceramics are that good and qualityu cant set tight casue balls are too hard? anyone else with this?
At first when brad was trying to figure out a way to use 1 rim for the T4.1 i was to but i was going the wrong way as i was trying to figure a way to mount the quick change to the front but thats alot more uneed weight for nothing on the out side of the car.
OK now i have some other questions for you. My next big race is gonna be at the JC indoor nats at rc excitment havent race indoor electric since i went to crcrc and adam drake was running electic classes and toddhodge was there.. so im sure things have changed.. From what i gathered so far GOLD,BLUE,GREEN barcodes and they pretty much dont wear at all.. Do i need traction compound? or is once of them tracks that has different size threads for each round...
1) i just started building my T4.1 kit its gonna be an carbon copy of my B4.1.
- I needto drill a "0"hole on the rear shock tower to lean them in more
- do i still run the weightsin the rear triangle/rear ballast/and next to rec.
- everyone telling me to copy cav setup for it, latest one i found was the surf city one in 2010is that it?
- do they run kyosho springs on the t4.1?
- Prob gonna run a 8.5 lrp in truck with a sxx tc v2 what kinda gearing for that motor and timing/speedo settings
2)Back to the B4.1 imgonna run the reedy sonic 8.5/sxx v2 any ideas on gearing ,timing,and speedo setup.
- stupid question even though its a short neckball stud why do they have a black one and a silver one i mean obviously i replaced them with the new ae gold ti ones but still?
- Any certian shock lengths for either B4/T4
3) and lastly i promise im gonna run 3classes leaning toward 4wd mod or sc4x4 but there backorderedso i might be going with a b44.1
- anything special to this kit/ i noticed some guys ru the alum tower/case upper mounts some dont,mayfeild steering mod?,doubling up on front tower? what about other aftermarket parts for this car?
- whats starting setup/build tips ext.
-i already have a sxxtc v2 waiting for either a b44.1 or a sc4x4 but what motor do i want/lrp,or sonic/timin/gearing/speedo settings?
Thanks again guys i appreicate this alot its alot of info coming at me all at once and coming from driving forlosi for 10+ years im struggling here so any little bit is helping
And also i ask some question a few pages back and guys started the bs like well if ur sponsored why r u asking questions and all... so please see wereim coming from here.. thanks in advance
09-11-2011 | 04:28 AM
#5805
If you're coming up to RCE (my home track) for the JC race you'll want Blue Bar Codes. Golds work well when the track is new, but by the time of the race Blues will probably be your best bet. We generally don't run sauce on the JC tires, usually just motor spray if anything.