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Old 08-29-2011 | 02:13 AM
  #6946  
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Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
It could be wheel hexes rubbing the bearings.
too tight of a belt?(what are the settings)
any type of drag. How far will it roll on the ground with no pinion installed??


depending in the size of the track you may never get it under control with that low of a turn motor.
This is what i have been running for some time now. Granted, i do prefer running a heat-sink and fan for some insurance, but this is a bad a$$ set up! My LRP (i am using a 13mm rotor too) is coming off at 130-150 depending on the day. (summer in Vegas) I did however get the pinion mod to run the other pitch spurs and pinion and am running a 14/62.
Good luck. i think your problem is in the drive train.
JT
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Old 08-29-2011 | 04:16 AM
  #6947  
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little help please fellas

im slowly picking thru all the pages. i gave it a proper run yesterday for a few mins, till what i thought was the pinion working loose and slipping on the engines shaft.

But it acutally clean stripped the spur gear. Also the slipper hub melted to the spur on the outer side of the clutch. The clutch spring got that hot it had turned blue.

Now... i had the clutch slipping a fair bit... probably for the first 6foot of take off. I thought i had the pinion adjusted correctly, but stripping the spur doesnt bother me... it the heat and melting that i need to know how to stop it.

It is basically a std 4 x 4 kit. Running a MMP, Tekin 550 4.5 motor and genuine Associated 12T pinion. I was also using the 32P spur.

Hints? Tips? Suggestions? fixs?

Ive already ordered new slipper pads and V2 vented slipper hub.
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Old 08-29-2011 | 04:58 AM
  #6948  
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Originally Posted by MiDGet
Hints? Tips? Suggestions? fixs?
Buy the slipper basket.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ch-basket.html

You will have a repeat performance of this if you continue to use the 550 motor even with it locked down because it still slips excessively. There just isn't enough surface area there to handle the torque of a 550, much less handle the torque and slip at all.

I think this is the biggest reason the AE factory guys are running the 540 motors. IMO this is the only must have aftermarket part for all users.
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Old 08-29-2011 | 05:11 AM
  #6949  
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Yep... your slipper was too loose and it kept spinning so fast that it heated up and melted the spur.

I noticed that the V2 slipper hub makes grooves in the pads and kind of eats them up. I'm going to stick with the stock ones
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Old 08-29-2011 | 05:32 AM
  #6950  
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Originally Posted by jpure009
Are you even weight all around after this?
You guys, all gettin' me to work on race stuff at 5am for the benefit of the interwebz.....so I break down and set up my scales - just for you guys - and here's what I found.

Straight off the track my weights were:

LF 601
RF 578
LR 771
RR 740

Which is NOT the way it measured before the main. Then I looked around and discovered I had lost 1 oz of ballast. I temporarily replaced the ballast and got this:

LF 603
RF 586
LR 778
RR 752

Which seems a lot closer to where I ran it on Saturday. If I had to guess, it's because I have not cleaned the tires, and may have an extra 20-40 grams door prizes I brought home from our fluffy track stuck inside the wheel.

For reference, the first time I weighted it ever (with saddle packs, but before I put the ballast in) I got it to weigh

LF 590
RF 588
LR 724
RR 734

With no adjustment, right off the trailer.

One thing that I need to make is a tire log book that tracks sets/numbers/position and monitors tire weights. There is no other way to monitor how much "track intrusion" (fluff) you have in your wheels, and this will absolutely have an effect on your corner wieghts.
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Old 08-29-2011 | 06:58 AM
  #6951  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Buy the slipper basket.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ch-basket.html

You will have a repeat performance of this if you continue to use the 550 motor even with it locked down because it still slips excessively. There just isn't enough surface area there to handle the torque of a 550, much less handle the torque and slip at all.

I think this is the biggest reason the AE factory guys are running the 540 motors. IMO this is the only must have aftermarket part for all users.
Just FYI, I have about 20 packs on mine, started running it with HD pads and vented slipper hubs.
Original pads and everything and no slippage.
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Old 08-29-2011 | 07:37 AM
  #6952  
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Clutch basket works! I too was thinking the 2 hd pads were enough but finally Cristian T (my son) conviced me and WOW what a difference.

This is how I made it not rub, a bit of dremel work and some spacers.
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-2011-08-27-17-20-35.jpg  
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Old 08-29-2011 | 07:46 AM
  #6953  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
You guys, all gettin' me to work on race stuff at 5am for the benefit of the interwebz.....so I break down and set up my scales - just for you guys - and here's what I found.

Straight off the track my weights were:

LF 601
RF 578
LR 771
RR 740

Which is NOT the way it measured before the main. Then I looked around and discovered I had lost 1 oz of ballast. I temporarily replaced the ballast and got this:

LF 603
RF 586
LR 778
RR 752

Which seems a lot closer to where I ran it on Saturday. If I had to guess, it's because I have not cleaned the tires, and may have an extra 20-40 grams door prizes I brought home from our fluffy track stuck inside the wheel.

For reference, the first time I weighted it ever (with saddle packs, but before I put the ballast in) I got it to weigh

LF 590
RF 588
LR 724
RR 734

With no adjustment, right off the trailer.

One thing that I need to make is a tire log book that tracks sets/numbers/position and monitors tire weights. There is no other way to monitor how much "track intrusion" (fluff) you have in your wheels, and this will absolutely have an effect on your corner wieghts.
one thing to do, like we always do, use on old set of tires you do not run anymore, this will take care of that problem. just mark them for each corner, and dont use them other then to weigh your truck. you will chase the numbers a lot less.
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Old 08-29-2011 | 08:11 AM
  #6954  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
You guys, all gettin' me to work on race stuff at 5am for the benefit of the interwebz.....so I break down and set up my scales - just for you guys - and here's what I found.

Straight off the track my weights were:

LF 601
RF 578
LR 771
RR 740

Which is NOT the way it measured before the main. Then I looked around and discovered I had lost 1 oz of ballast. I temporarily replaced the ballast and got this:

LF 603
RF 586
LR 778
RR 752

Which seems a lot closer to where I ran it on Saturday. If I had to guess, it's because I have not cleaned the tires, and may have an extra 20-40 grams door prizes I brought home from our fluffy track stuck inside the wheel.

For reference, the first time I weighted it ever (with saddle packs, but before I put the ballast in) I got it to weigh

LF 590
RF 588
LR 724
RR 734

With no adjustment, right off the trailer.

One thing that I need to make is a tire log book that tracks sets/numbers/position and monitors tire weights. There is no other way to monitor how much "track intrusion" (fluff) you have in your wheels, and this will absolutely have an effect on your corner wieghts.
so what would be ideal if u dont have saddle packs? im looking into scales but havent found a good set yet...dont wanna waste to much..lol
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Old 08-29-2011 | 08:30 AM
  #6955  
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Just got a email back from RPM there making a-arms for our 4x4 . Should be out soon..
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Old 08-29-2011 | 09:09 AM
  #6956  
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Clutch basket is the single most important mod, period. Its not just that it tightens the clutch, that's a given. Its the consistency it provides lap after lap, lipo after lipo.

I was clearing the triple at wcrc so easily on a few jumps I landed on the up-slope of the quad..yea...

Mac's service was top notch too! so for $35 you can trun your fast sct to a stupid fast one...GET IT NOW!! and go teach those Losi' who's the boss.
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Old 08-29-2011 | 09:38 AM
  #6957  
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Originally Posted by nmdesertracer
Just got a email back from RPM there making a-arms for our 4x4 . Should be out soon..
i dont see why, the stock ones are already too soft

i want some stiffer arms!

hopefully RPM is working on a bumper
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Old 08-29-2011 | 09:50 AM
  #6958  
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Originally Posted by GuiltyByAssoc
Clutch basket is the single most important mod, period. Its not just that it tightens the clutch, that's a given. Its the consistency it provides lap after lap, lipo after lipo.

I was clearing the triple at wcrc so easily on a few jumps I landed on the up-slope of the quad..yea...

Mac's service was top notch too! so for $35 you can trun your fast sct to a stupid fast one...GET IT NOW!! and go teach those Losi' who's the boss.

I'm waiting for the new parts I'v seen to cure the slipper .
Ae have a way better solution....
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Old 08-29-2011 | 10:17 AM
  #6959  
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Originally Posted by hondafixer
so what would be ideal if u dont have saddle packs? im looking into scales but havent found a good set yet...dont wanna waste to much..lol
AH-HEM. $16+3 to ship is too much?

Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I have that much subtrim in mine, has equal throw both ways, servo tracks straight, is it supposed to be a problem?

Here is the scales I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Digital-P...517988&sr=8-23

I paid $4.99, and apparently overpaid.
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Old 08-29-2011 | 10:22 AM
  #6960  
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^^ Roughly can you recommend the weight and position of the weights for my stock (stick) setup? I don't have scales..

tekin sc4x, rx8, and lipo in stock configuration?
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