91123- Front Swaybar Set
91124- Rear Swaybar Set
91126- Swaybar Hardware


You don't need the swaybar hardware if you get the swaybar sets. That is just extra hardware if you need it.

Thanks!

Looks like it is going to be about $40 to $50 to add the swaybar setup through AE based on those part numbers.


Anyone got a breakdown on off the shelf items to do a swaybar setup for less with minimal customizing of parts (ie- no bending your own wire)?

$50 for swaybars
i love AE but are you kidding me?

I'll keep the ones I made for $20

Those of you with these sc10 4x4s what, if any, changes did you make to make it more stable and able to make more consistant lap times? I think I'll like this 4x4 for the smaller track I'll race at but am worried about the bigger 1/8th scale track it being a little to twitchy.

Thicker front diff oil will help a lot.

Are these able to stay consistent on a big 1/8 track and hang with the scte?

$20? I got $1.35 in wire and robbed my sons old jammin for the rest

sways worked awesome last week. half a lap lead at the end. 2 wins in a row after a 3rd the 2cd week out.

Anyone got a breakdown on off the shelf items to do a swaybar setup for less with minimal customizing of parts (ie- no bending your own wire)?[/QUOTE]

Losb2222
Ae31264
Screws to mount to arms and sway bar clamps still needed, nothing tricky.

Bend your own bars with pliers. Cut to 6 1/2 inches. Find the center. Make a mark there and an inch each way from there. Bend at the outside marks, about 10-15 degrees shy of 90. Exact same shape as an AE 2wd bar for a B/T4 or sc10, just a hair longer on the "legs." Super easy, maybe $20-25 in parts.

At the Northwest SC Nationals AE dominated the A-main. I think a couple of Durangos were in there somewhere too. This was a big track with lap times in the 30-32 second range for 4w's

To each there own though.

s
That's my case, here in Brazil there are only 1/8 tracks.
First day on track had 3k on both diffs and 30k on both shocks, with bladder
Original tires..... (my order didn't arrive in time and I was anxious to ride)
Anyway it was hard to get a grip and very hard to control.
Changed the rear diff to 5k front diff 12k, rear shock 30k front 35k... still original tires result: a totally different game I'm pretty close to what I consider a good setup, I can assure you it's a great truck for big tracks as well, took the big jumps very well. I can imagine how it will be when my GridIron arrives.
The only down point is one of my shocks came with the bottom cracked and it's holding with Ca but licks a bit. AE said already on the snailmail.......
I do notice a lot of dirt inside the belt case, and on big jumps the body is a parachute.... i you have a bit of wind uhhhhhrgh. will have to improve on this,
and please some one come up with an UNDERCOVER it is a must.

It's more driver than truck anyway....guys that are fast could drive a cardboard box w/ a squirrel running in a wheel and turn fast laps.

I have been busy with work and not able to keep up with thread (made it to page 136), so what are people using for springs until associated releases theirs. I definitely need stiffer front to go along with a thicker shock fluid.

origional post with pics on page 199.
I have more pics if u need clarification....would only let me post 5

The problem is, you can't change the driver. On my local tracks (both indoor and 1/8 outdoor) I can put similar lap times during practice but when it comes to racing, the SCTE has a clear advantage, it's a lot more forgiving to driver errors such as contact with other cars or pipes, less than perfect landings, etc.. I'm not giving up on the SC10 yet but as of now, it is my back up car. I'm sure the car will mature in the next few months once all the bugs get worked out.
BTW, the SC10 performs very well on large tracks other than wanting to fly on long triples.

jb

Losb2222
Ae31264
Screws to mount to arms and sway bar clamps still needed, nothing tricky.

Bend your own bars with pliers. Cut to 6 1/2 inches. Find the center. Make a mark there and an inch each way from there. Bend at the outside marks, about 10-15 degrees shy of 90. Exact same shape as an AE 2wd bar for a B/T4 or sc10, just a hair longer on the "legs." Super easy, maybe $20-25 in parts.[/QUOTE]



please tell me again where to get the wire you make the bars out of. and maybe what 2 thicknesses I should get ..thank you