http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...&filter_mfr=42

These shocks take a little work to get super smooth. I polished the shock shafts, and made sure none of the pistons are dragging on the shock body as I had two that were doing this, I just lightly sanded the pistion with 800 paper to knock the edge off a bit and then rebuilt shocks with seal instead of bladder. I also removed the shock boots. My truck is planted and does not bounce at all. I also am running 2mm bars front and rear. Very happy with the truck.

We need more droop in the rear shocks. I ran my stock shocks back to back with losi 8ight shocks setup to be similar to the stockers with the exception I had 5mm more droop in the rear. It was a night and day difference with rear traction much better with the longer losi shocks. I'm going to try and unscrew my rear shocks a bit but that'll only give me a couple of mm's. Compare the rear of our car compared to a losi and you'll see the losi's have alot more rear droop available.

AE- we need longer shock shafts/and or bodies for the rear, not everyone runs on a super smooth track. oh yeah, and swaybars, we need them too, lol

I have to try that and you are right, it s exactly like a 2WD but the thing is that it s a 4X4 and I have the small pulley at front so the front pull a lot.

I already tried that and i think its worse without the bladders. But let me know what you think.

I think I few guys in this thread need to go back their Losi's full time

First time out with the truck, on a tight indoor watered clay track, I TQ'd, won the A-main and set the track record.

I beat 2 Losi's, one of which was the previous record holder, 2 Jammin's and the track owner who run's a Platinum Ed Slash in the final to take the win.

It needs swaybars like everyone else has already mentioned, but I could turn inside anything on the track, any corner anytime I wanted...sickness

I already tried ride height and from 25-45 wt oil (5wt intervals both front and rear) happiest with 30 in the front and 25 in the rear. must be something interal binding the rear. I also went to the 1.3 pistons. will know more tonight.

even with the bouncing, I'm beating both the regular jammins and having a tight race with a good durango.

Clicker locked and 19T pulley upfront calmed the back end down for me.

Actually I try 37.5 WT in front, front diff with 30.000, rear camber link short and increase the front height....

Have you tried the stock 20t front pulley? I ran for two days with the stocker, switched over to the 19 for two battery packs, HATED IT! It made the back of the truck come around even more. pulled off the track, made the swap back to the 20t, right back on the track with no other adjustments, back of truck was way more stable entering high speed corners.

Tried 100k front diff fluid, really stable, but at the expense of slow infield switchback type turns (obviously)! Going to try 80k next. I've tried 5k, 10k, 30k, and 120k..30k seems best so far.

We have been busy at Trcr , past few nights going late testing set-ups with the new Ae 4x4 ..


Been testing two Sc 4x4 beginning last Tuesday ..


So Far ?


The car with out sway bars had been getting the
fastest lap times ....


I have a Ae set-up sheet for no sway bar .

But I can't load due to its file size ....


When I figure out how, will post later tonight ...


TIP :


You wish to build your own sway bar's ?

Try the B-4 & T-4 sway bar kit #9635

Yes , it fits great , we are using the gold bar's ....

Hello,

So this is the first kit I have bought new and assembled. Not only am I missing some minor hardware, I am unsure where a brass o-ring/bearing goes, I also have 4 rubber o-rings/seals that I think go with the shocks, they look kinda like the rubber rings that go on the sc10 threaded shock bodies inside the adjustable thread ring for the springs -are they extra parts or where do they go?- , but I am mostly confused about the diffs.

I emptied the diffs and packed them with 10k(front) 5k(rear) Mugen diff oil . I packed them though almost to the brim, they seem extraordinarily stiff.... was I suppose to just coat them?

Thanks a ton in advance for any advice.

I forgot to mention,

The steering rack is also rubbing on the underside of the front diff, did I do something wrong or is there an adjustment I can make to prevent this?

FYI, I have read and gone through the manual quite a few times for all my questions.

Thanks again for any advice I receive.

cc3800 4 pole 14/62
MMP v1.26
bowfighters m3
2mm swaybar in front
3mm neg camber rear
long camber links
long wheelbase
3mm under ballstud rear ( chassis )
ridehight 27mm F&R
25wt rearshock half rebound
30wt frontshock half rebound
I run with the clicker.

our track is hardpacked dry clay somewhat blownout tested some things, also rear swaybar on and off. I like it off. I love the clicker. supersmooth, I can win some time with the fast and sharp turn in... rear end is also stable now. I have the belt pretty loose.
Truck also flies real nice. you do have to watch you throttle when leaving a jump when you run the clicker. there is no way you can up or down the nose.
But when you let go of the throttle half way up the ramp, the truck nicly lands nose down and doesnt overshoot.


this is the track http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bddux...el_video_title running the third pack with this truck

Spoken like a man who has never drove a Losi, if you had you would know
the Losi out of the box is hands down a better truck then the AE out of the
box.

The reason I'm trying the AE is because I loved the original RC10/MIP
conversion 25 years ago when most everyone hated it back then.

Pictures of the original SC10 4x4 25 years ago below:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-4wd-rc10.html

I will go back to my Losi full time if I can not get the AE to work at least as
good as my Losi. In theory the AE should be much better then the Losi but
we don't race on paper" so we will see what we will see sometime in the
next year"