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Old 05-23-2011 | 05:05 AM
  #1936  
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Originally Posted by MarqueeRc
Again, anybody have feedback?? I have run into problems with my sc10 4wd...Mostly bc of user error, I think for running the truck without the two advised washers that go on the slipper assembly..I probably should have waited to put them on..Did you guys have the extra washers/shims that were recomended on this thread included in there kits??In running it, I think I destroyed my slipper thrust bearing due to the slipper thrust spacer not being machined right as noted b/f.....Well, i ran it without the spacers and needed to keep on tightening the slipper ( that everone says is the symptom of the mismanufactured part) and think i caused the slipper pads to burn out and destroy the slipper thrust bearing..The tranny is not binding as i free rolled it nicely..It also caused my 19t pulley to damage slightly..It's now a paper weight and feel bummed about it ..I should have waited for the washers/spacers/shims/whatever you want to call them..
Mine did not come with any exra hardware for the /slipper assembly. Nor have I had problems. But I can take mine appart and check the thikness of the slipper thrust spacer. It might be a good investmesnt to get the high torque slipper pad aswell.
Ill post the measurements in a bit.
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Old 05-23-2011 | 05:16 AM
  #1937  
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hi guys thinking of buying the 4*4 sc10 have ft 2wd, how much quicker around the track is the 4wd buy comparision loose surface.

cheers don
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Old 05-23-2011 | 05:24 AM
  #1938  
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Here you go Marquee,

and the washer

ID of 6.02mm OD 12.18mm 1mm thick
If your slipper thrust spacer is thinner, than I would suggest finding some 6mmX1mm think washers and try adding them to the outside of the slipper thrust washer.
Hope this helps
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Old 05-23-2011 | 06:50 AM
  #1939  
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Originally Posted by Chuck 21
The problem is the shocks are sticking because of the crappy orings AE is
trying to run in the shock cartridge, plus some of the cartridges the holes
are to small or not round in shape.

The fix I found was to make sure the holes are round and the right size by
drilling or exacto knife. Then replace the bottom oring with an Ofna 1/8th
shock oring and replace the top oring with an SC10 2wd oring packing both
with RED Mobile 1 synthetic grease.

This makes shocks smooth and free in movement and they don't leak.

Hope this helps you & others"
Could be good info to add to the front page.



So, is there any concensus on the official setups out there as which one other than the stock manual setup is the best starting point?
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Old 05-23-2011 | 07:00 AM
  #1940  
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what is everybody using to space the front ball studs up 5mm? Thanks
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Old 05-23-2011 | 07:12 AM
  #1941  
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Originally Posted by ChucksTrucks
The front and rear body mount brackets (manual pages 14 &15) are the exact same width and location as as the mounts for 2wd and 4x4 Slash which is fantastic since many of us have bodies already drilled for Slash we would like to run on the SC10 4x4 too. Thanks AE! However, the posts themselves have an odd 1/2 inch 'cobra head' offset, which pushes the Slash body either a half inch too far forward or rearward depending on which direction you install the offset. Straight posts would be perfect and all your old Slash bodies will drop right on without having to drill any new holes. I sure would like to slap whoever spoiled perfection by making the silly offset posts, lol. Does anyone know of any straight square body posts from another vehicle that would slip into the square hole of these body mount brackets?
AE spoiled perfection because they made the 4x4 body mounts the same as THEIR 2wd truck and not for your Smash body..


slap slap
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Old 05-23-2011 | 07:58 AM
  #1942  
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Just wondering why everyone wants to know what different wheel will fit the truck? Is there something wrong with the stock wheels? Is there a problem mounting different manufacturers tires to the wheel? Just curious because I am going to load up on a variety of Proline tires and if there is no problem with the stock wheels, Associated's stock wheels are what I will buy instead of having trouble fitting other wheels.
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Old 05-23-2011 | 08:17 AM
  #1943  
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I like the stocks better than the protrack. only thing wrong with the stock wheels may be the availability being a new truck. I have a set of protrack and the work, but do have a small wobble. mods to help that are somewere in this thread.
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Old 05-23-2011 | 08:27 AM
  #1944  
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Originally Posted by Chuck 21
The problem is the shocks are sticking because of the crappy orings AE is
trying to run in the shock cartridge, plus some of the cartridges the holes
are to small or not round in shape.

The fix I found was to make sure the holes are round and the right size by
drilling or exacto knife. Then replace the bottom oring with an Ofna 1/8th
shock oring and replace the top oring with an SC10 2wd oring packing both
with RED Mobile 1 synthetic grease.

This makes shocks smooth and free in movement and they don't leak.

Hope this helps you & others"
Chuck et al;

I would advise against using the Mobil 1 in the shocks. If any of it mixes with the silicone fluid in the main body it will create a frothy strawberry jam. The two just don't play well together.
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Old 05-23-2011 | 08:31 AM
  #1945  
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Originally Posted by AccessRacer
what is everybody using to space the front ball studs up 5mm? Thanks
I'm useing the AE ballstud washers.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lstud-Washer-8
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Old 05-23-2011 | 08:35 AM
  #1946  
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I've been doing my homework on the body mounts and the best that I can find are from the SC8, #89426. The posts are square on three sides and rounded on one side, shave it square.

Like it or not, Traxxas Invented the short course class twice with 2wd & 4x4, In doing so they set a standard. There are more than a hundred bodies available for it. there is no performance gained from moving a body hole 1/2 inch!

For me the fact that the SC10 4x4 works with my existing collection of Protrac wheels/tires, batteries, hv motor & mmp esc makes this truck a free upgrade when I sell off last seasons truck. Now the bodies can fit right on it too without punching a bunch of new holes. Heck, they had me at metric hardware. I love sharing as many parts and tools amongst as many of my RC's as possible.
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Old 05-23-2011 | 08:44 AM
  #1947  
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Originally Posted by Ridge Runner
Just wondering why everyone wants to know what different wheel will fit the truck? Is there something wrong with the stock wheels? Is there a problem mounting different manufacturers tires to the wheel? Just curious because I am going to load up on a variety of Proline tires and if there is no problem with the stock wheels, Associated's stock wheels are what I will buy instead of having trouble fitting other wheels.
Use the stock wheels or the DE Racing SCTE wheels until they or AKA release the direct replacement for this truck.

You can find them here in various colors.
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Old 05-23-2011 | 08:45 AM
  #1948  
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
Chuck et al;

I would advise against using the Mobil 1 in the shocks. If any of it mixes with the silicone fluid in the main body it will create a frothy strawberry jam. The two just don't play well together.



Sticking with the Factory X rings , no leaks,no problems & smooth too...


Remember !!!

Green Slime those rings , not Motor oil guys ....
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Old 05-23-2011 | 08:48 AM
  #1949  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
Here you go Marquee,

and the washer

ID of 6.02mm OD 12.18mm 1mm thick
If your slipper thrust spacer is thinner, than I would suggest finding some 6mmX1mm think washers and try adding them to the outside of the slipper thrust washer.
Hope this helps

Thanks for this post.

My thrust spacer is 2.69 and my washer is .88mm which leaves me slipping all the way even with high torque pads.
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Old 05-23-2011 | 09:27 AM
  #1950  
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Originally Posted by offtraxx
I like the stocks better than the protrack. only thing wrong with the stock wheels may be the availability being a new truck. I have a set of protrack and the work, but do have a small wobble. mods to help that are somewere in this thread.
I have tried them all out so far except the Jconcepts wheel... and so far I think the stock AE wheel is the best choice.

I like the DE Racing scte wheels, high quality molds, but the lack of reinforcement (for clearance on the SCTE) makes for a flimsy wheel, Losi wheel included.

I have heard that DE will make a dedicated SC10 wheel, time will tell whether they add some ribs or not.
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