Damit I knew I was doing something wrong I have it down, so I'll change it, and I will check the transmission as well.......

You're the man, thanks

Used the search function regarding gearing for the Castle motor, totally spaced on turnbuckles, lol.The one in ThunderbirdJunkie's XXX-SCT does it. You can't hear it from the driver's stand so it's tolerable

Jjlove is getting annoyed. (Not at my sc10 4x4)

jjlove-Chil bro..this is r/c cars...not a serious subject that should be stressing ya out...maybe you need to come chill out her in SoCal this summer and race with us!

Ran my new 4x4 yesterday on a blown-out track and was impressed with its performance. Even with a lot of neg expo it had too much steering! I tightened the clicker so it should feel more neutral now. The AKA Enduros in super soft are REALLy good on the truck btw...

JG

When using 540 motors, I recommend using the motor manufacturer's largest rotor option. For LRP 540 motors, this is the 13mm option.

This model is designed for us by racers AND bashers. Non-essential parts were not included to keep costs down which in this day and age is very important too. It is a shame that the parts are not available at the same time as the truck. This was obviously a mistake on our part but the only way to fix it would have been to delay the truck until the bars were available which would have made people mad too.

The truck is a great truck and at the price it sells for is a great value. Anything can be made better including this truck but doing so costs money which is passed along to the consumer.

If they were running three cells with 540 the motors would get more than hot, they would fry.

15-20 years ago a lot of things were made in the US that are now made in China. Do you think AE would chooses to make things in China for the hell of it? It is much less expensive. That is why the cars AE sells today are no more expensive than the equivalent models sold 20 years ago. You should know this if you were involved that long ago. Chinese manufacturing is the reason that R/C modeling is as inexpensive as it is.

Well I ran the truck today...

All I can say is its awesome.My lap time where on pace with guys that have been running 4x4 sct all year. This was after the first pack and there was room for alot of setup improvements. I made up a front sway bar and it helped. I gave my friend some of the music wire I used and he made front and rear sway bars at the track. What a difference. You could tell that the attitude of the truck was different during cornering.

I used some old1/8th scale mounting hardware and he used revo mounted hardware with some minor mods. We made our own bar from 2mm music wire which cost about 80 cents for 3 foot. Instantly the truck was more stable n the corners.

I ran a tekin 6.5 - 540 with a GTB and after 12 minutes the motor temp was 165. A little hot but we normally don't run 12 minutes either. I was geared 15/93 48 pitch. There where 3 other guys there today with sc10 4x4s so it was fun working on setups.

Ya, $269 for a model of this caliber is an amazing feat! They should cost more IMO and include the swaybars and some m3 or m4 tires. They should sell a limited FT Maifield edition tuned and RTR with the his setup! I think some options like this would help AE make more cash instead of people buying tires and sway bars from other companys.

thats where i just started to race ,was there opeing day. didnt know what gearing would make this truck work out there...if u dont mind, id like to meet up next time, maybe im missing something with the truck.

thats what i was getting at with my comment..sure its about $30 bucks cheaper than the losi, but now i have to go buy swaybars (thats arent out yet) when the losi or even the jammin, come with them...It dont seem like a big deal, but yea it kinda is..

So go buy a losi!

Not the point, but to anwser your statement, im trying.

You are not getting what I was referring to. I love my new truck.

The 13mm rotor is already on my shopping list

Broke the rear chassis plate on assembly so I got after the body while waiting for parts. Have it on my SC10 for now - also went with the baja body to run on the 2wd. Yes - I had lots of green on hand!

i ran mine with sway bars and without sway bars and the truck ran just as fast without...actually, i was able to drive it more aggressively without the sway bars (i know..strange).....this truck may not even need the sway bar kit...IMHO.. (i run on an indoor large clay track i even when the track is wet, i have no traction roll problems..only spin out issues but that's driver error..lol) and this thing turns on a DIME....i used to own the losi but sold it due to overheating issues no matter what i geared it at or what motor i used (had a novak, tekin, and castle 3800kv which actually performed the best)...i can now run back to back to back 2s 65C 5600mah protek lipo's and the 3800kv motor stays at around 135-145....WITHOUT a fan....my setup is as follows:

Castle 3800kv
MMM = zero punch control, zero drag brakes, linear throttle curve, everything else on the low setting
Geared 14/58
Front shocks= 27.5wgt middle hole on tower, lower hole on arm
Rear shocks= 30wgt middle hole on tower, inner hole on arm
Front diff 50,000wgt
Rear Diff 3,000 wgt
NO clicker
Slipper 2 turns down from fully tight
Barcodes green compound
Belt tension= 3 in front, 4 in rear

VERY HAPPY with this setup