5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-10-2011 | 11:37 PM
#301
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5
From: Northern California
Started my build tonight. A couple of notes:
1. I wish the shock trees where harder plastic as the shock mounts dig into the channel which is supposed to hold them while you tighten the nuts on the back. (pg 14 & 15) I'll be happy to upgrade to aluminum shock trees when they come out.
2. I am not sure if my 5 mm nut driver shrunk, but I had to use a 7/32 nut driver to tighten all of the 5 mm nuts. (try to figure that one out)
3. I hope that they come out with aluminum 12 mm hex, because it's going to suck if the 12mm plastic hexes stick to the wheels everytime you remove them (and drop the axle pin). This is major flaw. Anyone found an aluminum 12mm hex which is a direct replacement?
1. I wish the shock trees where harder plastic as the shock mounts dig into the channel which is supposed to hold them while you tighten the nuts on the back. (pg 14 & 15) I'll be happy to upgrade to aluminum shock trees when they come out.
2. I am not sure if my 5 mm nut driver shrunk, but I had to use a 7/32 nut driver to tighten all of the 5 mm nuts. (try to figure that one out)
3. I hope that they come out with aluminum 12 mm hex, because it's going to suck if the 12mm plastic hexes stick to the wheels everytime you remove them (and drop the axle pin). This is major flaw. Anyone found an aluminum 12mm hex which is a direct replacement?
05-10-2011 | 11:41 PM
#302
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 139
Well I found another goof up, while building the tranny, in the manual it says to slide the idler gear on with the skirt side away from the London side of the top shaft for both front and rear, however the AE tips video specifically says to pull the top shaft out a bit and install the idler gear skirt in, on the same side as the longer top shaft. So what way is it supposed to go?
I'm gonna toss it in the trash if I have to tear it back apart!
I'm gonna toss it in the trash if I have to tear it back apart!
05-10-2011 | 11:42 PM
#303
Started my build tonight. A couple of notes:
1. I wish the shock trees where harder plastic as the shock mounts dig into the channel which is supposed to hold them while you tighten the nuts on the back. (pg 14 & 15) I'll be happy to upgrade to aluminum shock trees when they come out.
2. I am not sure if my 5 mm nut driver shrunk, but I had to use a 7/32 nut driver to tighten all of the 5 mm nuts. (try to figure that one out)
3. I hope that they come out with aluminum 12 mm hex, because it's going to suck if the 12mm plastic hexes stick to the wheels everytime you remove them (and drop the axle pin). This is major flaw. Anyone found an aluminum 12mm hex which is a direct replacement?
1. I wish the shock trees where harder plastic as the shock mounts dig into the channel which is supposed to hold them while you tighten the nuts on the back. (pg 14 & 15) I'll be happy to upgrade to aluminum shock trees when they come out.
2. I am not sure if my 5 mm nut driver shrunk, but I had to use a 7/32 nut driver to tighten all of the 5 mm nuts. (try to figure that one out)
3. I hope that they come out with aluminum 12 mm hex, because it's going to suck if the 12mm plastic hexes stick to the wheels everytime you remove them (and drop the axle pin). This is major flaw. Anyone found an aluminum 12mm hex which is a direct replacement?
05-10-2011 | 11:46 PM
#304
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 114
From: Florida
Call AE CS tell them what happened and they will take care of you instantly.
AE will not stand for customers having problems with their kits. They are
probably the best CS R/C car company out there, if not their darn close to
the best.
Give them a call, you won't be sorry... (do not email them) pick up the
phone....
AE will not stand for customers having problems with their kits. They are
probably the best CS R/C car company out there, if not their darn close to
the best.
Give them a call, you won't be sorry... (do not email them) pick up the
phone....
1 more question to u builders how many shimes are u using I'n the rear to keep cva pins in ? also need shimes for front, like 3 each hub...any body else have this problem?
05-10-2011 | 11:46 PM
#305
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,143
From: Havasu AZ
Started my build tonight. A couple of notes:
1. I wish the shock trees where harder plastic as the shock mounts dig into the channel which is supposed to hold them while you tighten the nuts on the back. (pg 14 & 15) I'll be happy to upgrade to aluminum shock trees when they come out.
2. I am not sure if my 5 mm nut driver shrunk, but I had to use a 7/32 nut driver to tighten all of the 5 mm nuts. (try to figure that one out)
3. I hope that they come out with aluminum 12 mm hex, because it's going to suck if the 12mm plastic hexes stick to the wheels everytime you remove them (and drop the axle pin). This is major flaw. Anyone found an aluminum 12mm hex which is a direct replacement?
1. I wish the shock trees where harder plastic as the shock mounts dig into the channel which is supposed to hold them while you tighten the nuts on the back. (pg 14 & 15) I'll be happy to upgrade to aluminum shock trees when they come out.
2. I am not sure if my 5 mm nut driver shrunk, but I had to use a 7/32 nut driver to tighten all of the 5 mm nuts. (try to figure that one out)
3. I hope that they come out with aluminum 12 mm hex, because it's going to suck if the 12mm plastic hexes stick to the wheels everytime you remove them (and drop the axle pin). This is major flaw. Anyone found an aluminum 12mm hex which is a direct replacement?
I haven't checked yet but being the wheel off set is the same as my SCTE
Losi the Losi ones might fit or even better maybe my locking one from my
Kyosho SC-R will fit? I'll be looking into this asap...
05-10-2011 | 11:56 PM
#307
[QUOTE=JMD51;9094062]If your saying its small, then why are people using them in the losi ten scte which is about a pound heavier then this truck, im sure the 4.5 and 5.5 would work awesome in this truck.
05-11-2011 | 12:00 AM
#308
05-11-2011 | 01:13 AM
#312
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 105
From: North Texas
Done for the night building, got to the bumper bag, all electronics are installed, threw some tires on from my son's Blitz and took it out fron at 2:30 in the morning. Good thing it is a quiet running Truck lol. Will finish it up tomorrow after work. Took about 6hrs non stop to get to this point. Followed the bags with each step in the book and the build went quite well.
Didn't see any flaws in the directions, if you sort your screws by size when you open a bag it makes it a bit easier as you build.
I put the skirt of the idler gear on the outside (same side as the screws of the diff) Wasn't making any noise when I ran it so I would stick with the directions in the book.
Didn't see any flaws in the directions, if you sort your screws by size when you open a bag it makes it a bit easier as you build.
I put the skirt of the idler gear on the outside (same side as the screws of the diff) Wasn't making any noise when I ran it so I would stick with the directions in the book.
05-11-2011 | 02:54 AM
#314
I started my build this morning. Did you guys have the castor blocks already installed on your front a-arms? I did...I uninstalled them to take out the steering stop button head screw and then put them back on...just found that it was odd. 
So far my gear boxes are rolling smooth...I built them exactly as the instructions say regarding the idler gear.
So far my gear boxes are rolling smooth...I built them exactly as the instructions say regarding the idler gear.
