Go-Tech Engines Thread
+1 on all the shim stuff above. Just be careful not to take the 1 x thin .1mm copper shim out too soon. Make sure you have fully broken in the motor and it can be turned over by hand in the buggy when hot before you pull the .1mm shim out, especially if you are going to be running 30%. Best to also run a medium plug or cooler (say OD 97T or LRP #6) if your going up to 30% with this shim removed. Depends on your ambient temps of course.
Enjoy your racing. Glad to hear the GO GX's are doing the business.
Enjoy your racing. Glad to hear the GO GX's are doing the business.
the GX motors come with 1 alloy .3mm shim and 2 copper .1mm shims! plus extra in a package is the copper .2mm break in shim!...i run all of them for a couple of races past break in and then when i think SHE'S READY TO GO and starts screaming like it should i take out the break in shim and 1 copper .1mm shim leaving the alloy .3mm and 1 copper .1mm shim which makes a total of .4mm of shims...this has been THE setup for 20% up to 30%
and it WILL scream even MORE! lol
and it WILL scream even MORE! lolTho I don't use the break in shim, i just make sure to heat the engine before i start it for the first few weeks of racing.
The 2009 MG66 I ran stock shimming for its whole life span (62 litres) but I just pulled 0.1 shim out on the 2010 MG66X after break in for a little more punch.
+1
Tho I don't use the break in shim, i just make sure to heat the engine before i start it for the first few weeks of racing.
The 2009 MG66 I ran stock shimming for its whole life span (62 litres) but I just pulled 0.1 shim out on the 2010 MG66X after break in for a little more punch.

Tho I don't use the break in shim, i just make sure to heat the engine before i start it for the first few weeks of racing.
The 2009 MG66 I ran stock shimming for its whole life span (62 litres) but I just pulled 0.1 shim out on the 2010 MG66X after break in for a little more punch.

handling the extra punch ?
The 2072 is designed for the GX Series motors, and does perform exceptionally well, especially on the 5 and 7 ports.
I have seen the A Plus 0801 on a 3 port and it was fine.
Personally I would run the 2072 for maximum performance right through the power band, but try them both and see what you think. A lot will depend on track design, driving style etc too.
I have sold quite a few 2072's to guys who run Alpha and JS engines, as they outperform the pipes that come standard with these motors hands down.
& you might want to think about replacing your rod aswell to get the most out of it . JMO
Today me and my two teammates swept the track today with 3 GX5R motors @ Arc Raceway in Temecula, Ca for the Halloween Club Race!.... I took 1st in Truggy
and my teammate clint took 3rd....then my other teammate took 2nd in Buggy....it was a great day for Go Engines
and my teammate clint took 3rd....then my other teammate took 2nd in Buggy....it was a great day for Go Engines
Just a heads up, the novarossi carb retaining lock fits the go engines perfectly. They are the same as the ones that come with the gx r series carbs with the o-rings. I broke one last week and bought a couple nova's as replacement. They are about $3/ea on ebay if you search for: Nova Carb or use the following link: http://cgi.ebay.com/Novarossi-18000-...item3a594c475f



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