New GX rod is shipping with the gx, 28, and .25 piston rod sleeve rebuild, from the factory. All pro big block conrods are the same part now. The rod will also fit the sport motors. It is for this reason I stock only the new one. Same goes for the nitrile seals for the carb.

pm sent gizatron

And the forcast is for rain AGAIN this weekend GRRRRRRRRR

Wow !! you are having a bad run mate. That was like us a couple of months ago. We missed like 4 or 5 race meetings in a row due to the rain. Weather has settled a bit now and we are trying to catch up all the points meetings we missed since May. It's gotta stop soon ??

i wish we had just rain, 65mph winds and snow on the way, not going to be able to break the new gx5r motor in unill april

well i tried the LONG LSN today @ the track and could NOT get a decent BENCH tune on it soo i went back to the SHORT 1 and she ripped as if NOTHING was even touched ....anyways i got it to idle and have GREAT snap and revved GREAT once!....... once i revved it..the 2nd and 3rd rev would start going WAY rich...i tried for about 20 mins and couldnt figure it out so is said oh well and just put the short 1 back in...i had to help a buddy break in his NEW GX5R combo + i wanted to run the track and not mess with a tune sooo THATS WHAT I DID....every thing went great soo far!...just a couple more HEAT CYCLES and his new BEAST is ready for DOMINATION

All I can say is check the idle gap with the pinch test and tune as per instructions on the web.
I'm not having a go, so please don't get me wrong, but tuning on the starter box and judging a motors performance by free reving on the box isn't really the best way to judge things. Just an observation, that's all

oh believe me i know that for sure...but it just didnt seem right you know...it would go from super snappy at first rev to ultra rich by the third and im not talking WOT just little warm up revs AFTER BEING PRE HEATED TO 200 degrees F...+ i didnt really want to take too much time messing with it soo i just went back to the short 1 but i still want to get the LONG 1 dialed to see if i like it or not

Sounds like you were a little too rich on the HSN maybe. That top end needle is super sensitive. From boggy and flat to fair ripping is only a matter of half an hour, to an hour of tweaking. So it's easy to have the top a little rich. Flush is a pretty general measurement when your talking in half hour adjustments, so just tweak the top until you find the sweet spot.
With the long needle you will get the feeling that the motor likes a pretty rich top end and a pretty lean bottom end. That's just how it needs to be set up to allow for the long needle remaining in the receiver jet throughout the whole rev range. Once you have it sorted, you will see just how easy the motor is to tune and keep tuned with the long needle. Plus the smooth throttle response is an added bonus with only the one needle controling everything. Stick with it, it's worth it.

+1 what grizz said
also i've found it a lot easier to set the top needle with about a 1/3 of a tank of fuel, this seems to give me good power through a whole tank & it's not leaning out when near empty. works for me

I've used Byron 25% and I will start using fuel 30% nitro. In Brazil only has Byron Race Gen2 and O'Donnell Racing Fuel, which fuel do you recommend? (I'll use .6 mm shim)

Sorry my bad English.

Thanks!

Byrons 30% is what 80% of the racers use here, really good fuel!!

whatever fuel you choose will be good!...Take out .2mm of shim and run .4 mm of shim on 30% the GX motors RIP like this....so it will be 1 alloy .3mm shim and 1 copper .1mm shim

i have GO TECH everything
GO 3 port combo motor and pipe $200
GO 5 port combo motor and pipe $210
GO 7 port combo motor and pipe $225
GO TECH starter boxes $79
GO TECH clutch setups (shoes, springs, flywheel) $35

give me a call 214-779-1824
or email me [email protected]

Quick question ,I am breaking in a Go GX5 right now.I leaving for a race tomarrow morning 5 am. The engine came with 1 silver and two copper shims installed I think.It also came with a thick shim in a package.I put this on to for break in.I thought I herd to do this and then take it back out when break in is done. Whats the right shim package breakin/race tune running Byrons 25% fuel?