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Old 10-29-2010 | 06:47 PM
  #12541  
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Ed,
Here you GO.
Now remove the cooling head and head button. Fit the .2 mm brass shim which came in the box with your motor. This is the "break in shim", and it is used to lower the compression on your motor, making it easier to start and run during the break in process. Make a note of where you fitted this shim, as you will be removing it after initial break in. Replace the head button and cooling head, making sure you nip up the head bolts in a cross pattern to ensure even tightening down of the head.
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Old 10-29-2010 | 06:49 PM
  #12542  
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Here is the link. Then go to Tech tips.

http://www.go-racing.co.nz/
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Old 10-29-2010 | 06:51 PM
  #12543  
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Originally Posted by CHOAS
Quick question ,I am breaking in a Go GX5 right now.I leaving for a race tomarrow morning 5 am. The engine came with 1 silver and two copper shims installed I think.It also came with a thick shim in a package.I put this on to for break in.I thought I herd to do this and then take it back out when break in is done. Whats the right shim package breakin/race tune running Byrons 25% fuel?
i run 1 alloy .3mm and 1 copper .1mm(really thin) shim on 20% and 30% in the GX5R motors and they SCREAM but this is AFTER break in!..during break in i run all of them as stated above
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Old 10-29-2010 | 07:04 PM
  #12544  
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Originally Posted by sriley
Ed,
Here you GO.
Now remove the cooling head and head button. Fit the .2 mm brass shim which came in the box with your motor. This is the "break in shim", and it is used to lower the compression on your motor, making it easier to start and run during the break in process. Make a note of where you fitted this shim, as you will be removing it after initial break in. Replace the head button and cooling head, making sure you nip up the head bolts in a cross pattern to ensure even tightening down of the head.
Thanks buddy.Either that shim or my comp heat heater ,or the combo of both made this break in quite easy.I will run a few mor tanks in practice tomarrow and then pull the breakin shim and start race tuning inher in.
I think I am going to like this motor. I through the Losi RE10 pipe on it to add a little to the bottom end.I ran the rE11 on the 3port but whated a little more snap.I think the GX5 and the RE10 will be a good combo.

I have room in the truck.We are headed to LCRC about 140 miles one way.Leaving around 5:30 am.Pack your stuff and we will pick you up or you can follow us out.We got room.
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Old 10-29-2010 | 07:13 PM
  #12545  
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Originally Posted by CHOAS
Thanks buddy.Either that shim or my comp heat heater ,or the combo of both made this break in quite easy.I will run a few mor tanks in practice tomarrow and then pull the breakin shim and start race tuning inher in.
I think I am going to like this motor. I through the Losi RE10 pipe on it to add a little to the bottom end.I ran the rE11 on the 3port but whated a little more snap.I think the GX5 and the RE10 will be a good combo.

I have room in the truck.We are headed to LCRC about 140 miles one way.Leaving around 5:30 am.Pack your stuff and we will pick you up or you can follow us out.We got room.
I ran the first race after break in with the shim in. Then I took it out before the next race. I'll probably take out another one before the last race at the Hut. I would like to go but I have the kids while the wife is at work. I won't be at the Hut either Sunday. Good luck this weekend and I'll see you guys next Sunday.
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Old 10-29-2010 | 07:18 PM
  #12546  
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Originally Posted by sriley
I ran the first race after break in with the shim in. Then I took it out before the next race. I'll probably take out another one before the last race at the Hut. I would like to go but I have the kids while the wife is at work. I won't be at the Hut either Sunday. Good luck this weekend and I'll see you guys next Sunday.
im breaking in another GX5R and so far im past the break in but kept all the shims in and have run 2 FULL races with the break in shim in and am going to run 1 more race to make sure its ready and then i will remove the break in shim and 1 more copper shim!...this is how i have done 3 gx5r motors so far for me and my teamates and they run GREAT!
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Old 10-29-2010 | 07:24 PM
  #12547  
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Originally Posted by deadmancourt
im breaking in another GX5R and so far im past the break in but kept all the shims in and have run 2 FULL races with the break in shim in and am going to run 1 more race to make sure its ready and then i will remove the break in shim and 1 more copper shim!...this is how i have done 3 gx5r motors so far for me and my teamates and they run GREAT!
I'm also going to try that. I'm curious to see what affect it has.
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Old 10-29-2010 | 07:24 PM
  #12548  
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Originally Posted by deadmancourt
im breaking in another GX5R and so far im past the break in but kept all the shims in and have run 2 FULL races with the break in shim in and am going to run 1 more race to make sure its ready and then i will remove the break in shim and 1 more copper shim!...this is how i have done 3 gx5r motors so far for me and my teamates and they run GREAT!
so after break in, how many shims you leave in? someone said that the gx motors come with 1 thick and 1 thin and one break in shim, after break in you take break in shim out and also another thin shim just leaving one thick shim in, to many shims in this question, sorry....lol
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Old 10-29-2010 | 07:31 PM
  #12549  
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Originally Posted by inferno13
so after break in, how many shims you leave in? someone said that the gx motors come with 1 thick and 1 thin and one break in shim, after break in you take break in shim out and also another thin shim just leaving one thick shim in, to many shims in this question, sorry....lol
I believe the standard shimming is one alloy and two copper shims. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 10-29-2010 | 07:31 PM
  #12550  
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Originally Posted by inferno13
so after break in, how many shims you leave in? someone said that the gx motors come with 1 thick and 1 thin and one break in shim, after break in you take break in shim out and also another thin shim just leaving one thick shim in, to many shims in this question, sorry....lol
the GX motors come with 1 alloy .3mm shim and 2 copper .1mm shims! plus extra in a package is the copper .2mm break in shim!...i run all of them for a couple of races past break in and then when i think SHE'S READY TO GO and starts screaming like it should i take out the break in shim and 1 copper .1mm shim leaving the alloy .3mm and 1 copper .1mm shim which makes a total of .4mm of shims...this has been THE setup for 20% up to 30% and it WILL scream even MORE! lol
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Old 10-29-2010 | 07:32 PM
  #12551  
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Originally Posted by sriley
I believe the standard shimming is one alloy and two copper shims. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
thats after break in is done? ok, deadmancourt beat me and awnsered my question, THANKS! its starting to get really cold here 30's, and snow in the forcast! should i wait untill spring to break in, or just do it in the basement when the wife is gone....lol, i wont do that again!!!!!! she was alittle pissed.....LMAO
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Old 10-29-2010 | 07:40 PM
  #12552  
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Originally Posted by inferno13
thats after break in is done? ok, deadmancourt beat me and awnsered my question, THANKS! its starting to get really cold here 30's, and snow in the forcast! should i wait untill spring to break in, or just do it in the basement when the wife is gone....lol, i wont do that again!!!!!! she was alittle pissed.....LMAO
Yeah I bet it stunk the house up.
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Old 10-29-2010 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sriley
Yeah I bet it stunk the house up.
OH YA, i love the smell, but her..........not so much. told her it smelled better than the candles she burns...lol
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Old 10-29-2010 | 08:16 PM
  #12554  
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(QUOTE=inferno13;8141195]OH YA, i love the smell, but her..........not so much. told her it smelled better than the candles she burns...lol[/QUOTE]

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Old 10-29-2010 | 08:18 PM
  #12555  
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OK kids time to hit the sack.Need my beauty sleep for a good run inthe Masters class tomarrow. Thanks for all the help,much appreciated and the laughs too.
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