Go-Tech Engines Thread
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
Tech Fanatic
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 789
From: Corona, CA
Saw your Rustler on the other thread. It will always be a stadium truck and not a 2wd Truggy. Good for grins I guess. To be perfectly legal for racing, .12 displacement is the max. With a 75cc tank, I doubt you'll get much runtime with a .21 and it will tear up your gears and transmission.
The 1/10 stadium truck class seems non-existent at the moment. If I could get my car up to spec and performance, my local track said I could race with them truggies. Although I don't know how good I would fair against them.
Just don't have cash to drop on a new or even used truggy/buggy/1:8 scale. But would love to race. 
If this is the case, I would upgrade to one of the mentioned motors and upgrade to a 250cc tank (direct drop-in). Have seen and heard many Rustlers with stock diffs/trannies and had no problems going with a bigger motor. Obviously not a .28 or anything.
Anyone know if GO has a drop in?
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
Agree with you 100%. I don't know how much "serious" racing I'll be doing. If it's just at the club, I don't think they'll even mind that it has a engine with more displacement. To my understanding the .12 is for ROAR sanctioned events right? I was never clear on this, but the stock 2.5R motor is a .15 making it illegal for racing. Am I wrong?
The 1/10 stadium truck class seems non-existent at the moment. If I could get my car up to spec and performance, my local track said I could race with them truggies. Although I don't know how good I would fair against them.
Just don't have cash to drop on a new or even used truggy/buggy/1:8 scale. But would love to race. 
If this is the case, I would upgrade to one of the mentioned motors and upgrade to a 250cc tank (direct drop-in). Have seen and heard many Rustlers with stock diffs/trannies and had no problems going with a bigger motor. Obviously not a .28 or anything.
Anyone know if GO has a drop in?
The 1/10 stadium truck class seems non-existent at the moment. If I could get my car up to spec and performance, my local track said I could race with them truggies. Although I don't know how good I would fair against them.
Just don't have cash to drop on a new or even used truggy/buggy/1:8 scale. But would love to race. 
If this is the case, I would upgrade to one of the mentioned motors and upgrade to a 250cc tank (direct drop-in). Have seen and heard many Rustlers with stock diffs/trannies and had no problems going with a bigger motor. Obviously not a .28 or anything.
Anyone know if GO has a drop in?
[QUOTE=quixoticboi;8083129]Agree with you 100%. To my understanding the .12 is for ROAR sanctioned events right? I was never clear on this, but the stock 2.5R motor is a .15 making it illegal for racing. Am I wrong?
The 1/10 stadium truck class seems non-existent at the moment. If I could get my car up to spec and performance, my local track said I could race with them truggies. Although I don't know how good I would fair against them.
If this is the case, I would upgrade to one of the mentioned motors and upgrade to a 250cc tank (direct drop-in). Have seen and heard many Rustlers with stock diffs/trannies and had no problems going with a bigger motor. Obviously not a .28 or anything.
QUOTE]
A bigger motor will most likely make you slower on a track. You would probably turn better lap times with a .12cc. It would be basically a Jato with too much power for a 2WD. Interesting for bashing, but not competitive. I doubt that a 250cc tank would fit. The Jato guys have been looking forever for a big tank/150cc tank replacement without success.
A .21 motor will cost about the same as a CRT.5 ARR. Back in the day, had a Jato. CRT.5 was much more fun onroad and off.
Check the Traxxas site for more info.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-CRT-5-1-12-...93025787384245
The 1/10 stadium truck class seems non-existent at the moment. If I could get my car up to spec and performance, my local track said I could race with them truggies. Although I don't know how good I would fair against them.
If this is the case, I would upgrade to one of the mentioned motors and upgrade to a 250cc tank (direct drop-in). Have seen and heard many Rustlers with stock diffs/trannies and had no problems going with a bigger motor. Obviously not a .28 or anything.
QUOTE]
A bigger motor will most likely make you slower on a track. You would probably turn better lap times with a .12cc. It would be basically a Jato with too much power for a 2WD. Interesting for bashing, but not competitive. I doubt that a 250cc tank would fit. The Jato guys have been looking forever for a big tank/150cc tank replacement without success.
A .21 motor will cost about the same as a CRT.5 ARR. Back in the day, had a Jato. CRT.5 was much more fun onroad and off.
Check the Traxxas site for more info.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-CRT-5-1-12-...93025787384245
Agree with you 100%. I don't know how much "serious" racing I'll be doing. If it's just at the club, I don't think they'll even mind that it has a engine with more displacement. To my understanding the .12 is for ROAR sanctioned events right? I was never clear on this, but the stock 2.5R motor is a .15 making it illegal for racing. Am I wrong?
The 1/10 stadium truck class seems non-existent at the moment. If I could get my car up to spec and performance, my local track said I could race with them truggies. Although I don't know how good I would fair against them.
Just don't have cash to drop on a new or even used truggy/buggy/1:8 scale. But would love to race. 
If this is the case, I would upgrade to one of the mentioned motors and upgrade to a 250cc tank (direct drop-in). Have seen and heard many Rustlers with stock diffs/trannies and had no problems going with a bigger motor. Obviously not a .28 or anything.
Anyone know if GO has a drop in?
The 1/10 stadium truck class seems non-existent at the moment. If I could get my car up to spec and performance, my local track said I could race with them truggies. Although I don't know how good I would fair against them.
Just don't have cash to drop on a new or even used truggy/buggy/1:8 scale. But would love to race. 
If this is the case, I would upgrade to one of the mentioned motors and upgrade to a 250cc tank (direct drop-in). Have seen and heard many Rustlers with stock diffs/trannies and had no problems going with a bigger motor. Obviously not a .28 or anything.
Anyone know if GO has a drop in?
http://www.go-engine.com/in-products/R1800-M00HSG.htm
The pics are out of date. These motors now have a blue head and other more up to date refinements on them now.
Contact Runne, he may be able to bring one of these in for you with his next order ??
One of the .21 race motors might be a little much for the transmission you have there.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 789
From: Corona, CA
Great info. I will have to think about this... Also, I made a mistake, it's not a 250cc tank it's a 125cc. My bad. Well I still have my 2.5R (.15) motor and changed my gearing for higher acceleration. My final drive ratio is 11.24. I have superior acceleration but feel that my top end is sacrificing a little too much. So, I'm trying to maintain high acceleration while gaining top speed, which is why I'm looking for a bigger motor. Thoughts please.
Great info. I will have to think about this... Also, I made a mistake, it's not a 250cc tank it's a 125cc. My bad. Well I still have my 2.5R (.15) motor and changed my gearing for higher acceleration. My final drive ratio is 11.24. I have superior acceleration but feel that my top end is sacrificing a little too much. So, I'm trying to maintain high acceleration while gaining top speed, which is why I'm looking for a bigger motor. Thoughts please.
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...=155629&page=8
I know the Jato guys pretty much agreed that for top speed/performance, the OS .18 was pretty much the best, for a stock motor. These little guys don't need the torque, they can use high RPM. Easiest performance increase is to send (or buy) a TRX 3.3 from ABMods. You'll never want anything more.
Just going from a 2.5 to a 3.3 traxxas motor with dual chamber traxxas resonator pipe will already be a big step up. The 3.3 is really that much better than the 2.5. It's got heaps more bottom end and maybe a bit less top end, but you can make up top end with gearing. And also, the 3.3 is easier to tune, and runs cooler than the 2.5.
You can also get the 3.3 from ebay "chop shops" at a decent price.
That would definitely be the route I'd take.
You can also get the 3.3 from ebay "chop shops" at a decent price.

That would definitely be the route I'd take.
Just going from a 2.5 to a 3.3 traxxas motor with dual chamber traxxas resonator pipe will already be a big step up. The 3.3 is really that much better than the 2.5. It's got heaps more bottom end and maybe a bit less top end, but you can make up top end with gearing. And also, the 3.3 is easier to tune, and runs cooler than the 2.5.
You can also get the 3.3 from ebay "chop shops" at a decent price.
That would definitely be the route I'd take.
You can also get the 3.3 from ebay "chop shops" at a decent price.

That would definitely be the route I'd take.



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