Both motor plates inner or outer bb support needs to be pulled out for pinion change.

The only difference is the plate remains on the motor while the pinion is swapped out. The cam locking shroud covers the access to the pinion set screw.

With a stock mount, you still have to loosen the two socket cap screws.

With ours, a single M4 locking nut is loosen, and the beauty of it, it does not need thread locker each time you do a pinion change.

Hey guys!

Im just about finished with my RC8Be build. Really nice piece, but I've ran into a problem...

I thought I would take the MMM kit from my old Vorza and put it in the RC8, since I've seen some people running MMM in theirs. But the 2200kv motor in the Vorza is bigger than the usual CC 2200kv due to its heatsink, so it doesnt get close enough to the chassis for the engine mount..

Should I get the dremmeln out and go mayhem on it? Or simply get a new motor..?

Also, I havent read the whole thread, so if there's anything important that's been said earlier in the thread, please update me

Best regards,
Limpan

Just wondering if any of the guys running the rc8be chassis are having any problems or if it is holding up well? I plan to put the tbone skid on mine to help protect the kickup and rear area. payday is getting near so i am gettin ready to hit the pay now button.
how are the shock towers coming?
thanks

do you have some weights on this. I like my elite mount but i like any thing light. i wouldnt even mount my motor with 4 mm due to weight differance using 3mm ti screws?

What wt shock oil has been working well for those that are still running the stock pistons? I just have the 25wt that came with the kit. I see on the setup sheet AE has posted that they're running 30wt up front and 25wt rear, but thats also with the tapered pistons. Im mostly running on smooth medium grip clay track.

1.6oz or 48grams

You may want to visit our support thread that we opened that have most of the questions answered.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...rt-course.html

25 all around

also has anyone experienced the rear little screws on the back of the esc tray comming loose and falling out? after every weekend i like to take my whole tray out and clean my car but ive noticed that they dont thread that well when you are reinstalling them they are the 2 little ones at the end of the tray

i guess it is the 4x6 fhs you are refering to, add a small drop of ca glue to the screw and only snug it up. after an hour you will be able to remove the screw and the ca glue will repair the plastic threads in the tray.

do you have any tips or advice on how you build and rebuild your differential. As in zero leaks. Thanks!!!

Anyone found a motor heat sink that will fit the RC8????
as most of you know, on the RC8e the motor sits right on top of the chassis and leaves no clearance for a sink.

if geared correctly, you will not need a heat sink
heat sinks are just extra weight

if you must though, get an elite motor mount (sold out now though)
Elite

ive done that too lol now im up to a serew and a bolt that thing is not coming out anymore thanks though!!

i got a complete losi system for really cheap when i first converted to ele and i ground a lil on the bottom of the losi heat sink to get it to fit.... but like mentioned, if gearded right there should be no need

Anyone know the correct battery tray size so I can order some lipos? Thanks in advance. BTW Ive looked and came up empty handed. Mine is a converted rc8b