Be interesting to see if weight reduction helps. Last I had knew most racers was actually adding weight to their cars. Keep me updated. Thats my biggest problem right now is making time. But I run 4s. Not sure why I didint get a 5 or 6s.

I've thought of running a 5S...and I can see the wisdom in the 6S set-up. But my question is...how are you FITTING a pair of 3S batts in there? Can you post up a picture of the battery tray with 2 3S batts please?

He's using smaller capacity cells. You can't look solely at individual cell capacity. You have to take in account the total watt hours of the battery. For instance, 4S6000mah and 6S4000mah setups should perform the same provided everything else is optimized for the battery (motor kv, wire size, connectors, etc.). Personally I would have like to have seen 3S become the standard in 1/10 making 6S (via series connection of your 1/10 packs) the standard for larger scale. That became the standard setup of the aircraft world immediately when lipo was introduced.

This is exactly why I want to run 6s in my buggy so I can also use that same 6s in my helicopter.

I am not using a pair of 3 cells in series, I am running a single 6 cell lipo pack. I run batteries with a lesser capacity (2200mah and 3000mah) because there is not as large of an amp draw with a higher voltage, lower kv system than you have with a 4s setup. The single 6s lipo weighs less and is physically smaller than a 5000mah 4s battery. The idea is to get the lowest mah battery as you can that will still last the heat or main. This allows you to keep the weight down. The advantages of a lightweight vehicle boil down to pure physics. It takes less power to move an object of lesser mass (which will add run time and keep the heat down). The lighter car will also accelerate at a faster rate than a heavier car with the same force applied to it. Furthermore, the car will not have as much momentum (the formula for momentum is mass times acceleration) because the car will not have as much mass as a heavier car. This will allow the car to brake easier (which is easier on the esc, and keeps the heat down). This allows you to pick a braking point further from where you would have to with a heavier car which means you can carry higher speed for a longer period of time. This equates to faster lap times. I am a firm believer in a lighter vehicle. In my opinion, the pros far surpass the cons. There are those that argue that if you need to add weight to obtain the handling characteristics that you desire (a more planted car, better steering, etc), that your car was not setup properly in its lighter state. Through setup, those characteristics can be obtained with the lighter car along with the various other advantages.

B recliner... Im also in the process of the same actions you are taking. I plan to purchase the snr chassis. I bought a couple 2650 and 3000mah 6s and other little lightening tricks my estimate of weight savings right now is 14oz not bad!! Cant wait to get it all dialed in. I'm running this with tekin 1550kv also thinking of trying similiar 5s this motor is kind of between 5-6s I think. I've also bought a spare losi battery tray and fit that in. Its longer and makes more room to move the batt forward and back.

That is another advantage I picked up when I went to the smaller 6s packs that I forgot to mention, and you'll experience it too. You can shift the smaller battery further forwards or backwards in the battery tray (especially if you put a bigger tray in than the stock tray) depending on where you want to distribute weight. This is yet another way you can get the handling characteristics that you want. Also, I put the tapered pistons in the shocks (10x1.1). With a lighter weight car pushing down on these shocks combined with these upgrade pistons, I found I could lighten the fluid in the shocks. I still have enough pack to absorb the larger jumps so the chassis doesn't bottom out and the lighter fluid lets the suspension flow more fluidly over the ripples in the track when all four are to the ground. I am very impressed with this car. I think it is versatile, responsive, and will turn inside many other respectable cars. I can definitely see myself racing this one for another season.

i run reedy 5000 40c 4 cell with castle 2200kv from castle and i have plenty of power punch and top speed!! we run 15 min every main and i come off the track with 2000-1800 mah left in the batt. i know i could run 20 with ease if i lay off the throttle a bit lol gearing is 46/15 and i love it!!

mine is down to 7lb 13oz ready for the main. The car feels awsome. it is more responsive in the air(easier to correct a ill faced jump). I plan to get the snr chassis and the shock towers and about 12 aluminum 4x12 screws!

I cant really comment on how it handles since I'm just zooming up and down the street. Anything over 50mph is a little tough to control on narrow street though.

I might just grab a few 6s 2600mah or some 3300mah packs. For those that do have these smaller 6s packs how long are you getting on your runtimes?

2650mah 6s rx8 1400kv=12min+/-

Same here, I don't race at all with my RC8be, I just want to have fun hauling a$$ up and down the street after a hard day at work. This is why I'm looking at running a 6s in my buggy. I also want to use the same packs in my Align 550e heli.

That's a good point. I wish I didnt sell my 3300mah packs I used in my 500. I'm picking up a 550 soon too but the 6s 5000mah packs will be pretty heavy on the buggy.

Thanks bro, 3300mah might just be perfect for me then.

here's my rc8be

just got done building it. haven't driven it yet

4s hardcase lipo 5000mah 35c
tekin 1900kv
mamba max pro esc
jconcepts barcodes

car built for indoor