Thanks Baxter.

I am also going to cut my shoes,..

does the 705 have this probkem? I had a TG10R (Tamiya gas car) with a two show type clutch and that thing was very very responsive almostl like driving an electric car. I loved that cutch. But I sold it becuase I wanted a pure race car....

What will serpent do to fix this problem> is it even a problem / design problem?

does the r40 have this problem? (Centax problem in genral? )

I forgot to mention I have a Sirio .12 turbo (black head and carb)

Bacter, you said that the silver spring is harder, so i will take it back then. so it is probably a matter of setting the spring nut far enough so that my engine engages...

there are few

It isnt a problem as such, it is more a setting thing, remember that the centax clutch is a racing clutch as in it is adjustable. any clutch that has shoes like the tamiya will be similar as they are not even nearly as adjustable... I would suggest playing with the clutch till you get it right, remember that it is like like that so you can find the best for you, some like it very responsive, some not so much.... and there are performance advantages to the centax...

You are exactly right profox... also, dont do the mod untill you feel you need to, I will do the same, I like to leave it as standars as I can but hop-ups are cool... My 2 cents...

Are the new 710 kits out yet, the ones with the thicker shock tower. If so where can I get one online?

I am not sure, I too want to know, but I will have to wait a little...

Is anyone also having this left-right scroll problem?

I don't know if this has been posted on this forum, but here is a good modification for the new Serpent gearboxes.

On the 2nd gear on the transmission, along the edge in front of the teeth, there are 3 slots that are cut in the gear so you can access the screws to adjust the 2-speed clutch. These 3 slots in the gear align (kind of) with 3 holes in the alum. gear "cage" that sits in the plastic gear.

Because of the shape of the 3 cutouts (they are angled) I found it difficult to access the screws for the 2-speed clutch. It is not so bad when you have to adjust the 2 screws on the shoes (they are at an angle in the shoes), but it proves difficult to adjust the small center screws to set the shoe gap (since you have to put a 1.5mm wrench straight through the gear, perpendicular to the gear).

I solved this problem by widening the 3 slots in the plastic 2nd gear. By default, the slots are roughly 3mm wide... I widened them an extra 2mm... just enough so the entire hole in the alu cage is visible through the slots when viewed straight on.

Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada

OH... MY... GAWD...


I am so jealous...
I have never raced on a permanent track before... only temporary tracks. That track is so gorgeous!

Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada

Here is another shot of the drivers stand.

Sorry to butt in...but want to know you guys can help out...

I would like to get some cheap parts to rebuild my Impulse to something like a PRO version....parts I am interested are....

801242 - Front axle alu with one-way-bearings +24T pulley
801243 - Adaptor front driveshaft
808313 - Spacer 7mm alu for rear upright +screw
909555 - Centax gear-pinion aluminum 15t
909565 - Centax gear-pinion aluminum 20t
801132 - Chassis stiffner alu RE + belt tensioner

let me know via PM...thanks all.

For anyone who is interested, I wrote a column on myTSN about the way that I built the carb/brake linkages on my S710.

The URL is:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=9742


Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada

Yes I thought I had changed my screen settings somewhere along the line LOL !!!!

Its because the picture Marcos.S710 posted are too big.