monty my 3 port with p5 crank....in buggy what engine do you think it would be close to??

I put 3 gallons on a P5xl and after the last race I noticed the flywheel was moving in and out. I thought the collet came loose or something so I took off the flywheel and the front bearing seemed like the race was sticking out just barely. So I did what I've never had to do in all the years racing Novarossi. I tore down my engine. The front bearing was shot after 3 gallons, I've never had that problem, so I got my old p5 out, 8 gallons, and compared the bearings and they are not the same as the old ones. Are the new bearings cheaper or did I just land off a huge jump, really possible, haha. Anyway Is this common for a faily new engine to need bearings, not OS hehe...I put tko ceramics in it and they felt a bit tight so I fired it up and it loosened after about half a tank, cool, those ceramics do improve the engine performance, I had to see it to believe it. Can't wait to race it. I guess with the ammount of racing I've been doing I can expect things to have issues, no big deal, but I am suprised a bit. and yes I run gen2 25%. I might add a bit of oil to the mix just to be sure. Oh yeah, is it ok to leave both shields on the front bearing???

No you want the shield on the outside not the inside

why not??? its ok to do so.. might be a lil more drag but not that much..

Monty, you have a +4 team available?

If you leave the back shield on the front bearing will not get any lube and the bearing will not last that long, also the rubber bearing shield can come off and go thought the engine and that not good eather.

i hear you but usually bearings that come with to seals are lubricated.. and i have never seen a seal come off and go it to the engine from that side.. thats almost impossible... i said almost... because the bearing is pressed against the engine block on the inside.. but i have seen my share of murphys law b4.. so hey ...

Removing the rear shield can also affect the seal of the engine and cause tuning issues.

I recommd novarossi front beraring #17011 , it is the best bearing on the market , I don't think anybody will argue that ;0

As far as the p5 bearing , they do not last very long , right around 3 gallons is about right , replace with 17011 front bearing and you will be a happy camper!!

I have seen the best results as far as low friction from bearings with one shield on the front and exposed balls in the rear . Leaving both shields on will seal the engine up fairly well , it will create a good bit of drag and the bearings grease will dry out fairly quick

Just for the record:

What size is the front and rear bearing on a Plus 4 2009 engine (the one with standard and turbo head included).

Thanks

almost all the front bearings on .21 and .28 off road engines is 7x19x6mm , novarossi's newer engines come with 7x19x6x6.3mm front bearings .

no need for a shim behind the collet anymore

monty,

i am not sure this has been asked, i met a nitro veteran and he mentioned to me that one of the most important thing that i can do to prolong my engine life is loosen the button head and retighten it SLOWLY so that all four screws go in equally. he said, all new engines especially european mills are very very tight when new, one can hardly turn it over by hand, but after loosen and retighten the button head i am surprised that he can even turn over a new mill by hand! wat's your take on this?

no way i can turn over my plus 4 by hand when brand new, he said this might have to do with the way the button head screws are tighthen from factory, the sleeve might not sit perfectly perpendicular and the piston rub against it creating the tightness, after resitting the sleeve and retighthening the button head, everything is nice and straight, the piston and sleeve lines up perfectly and hence smoother engine and longer life...

ur opinions on this are greatly appreciated...

there is definitely some serious torque on the nova heads from the factory and yes a block can easily be warped by overtightening or improperly torqueing your head bolts . i personally disassemble and inspect every engine of my own .

i will partially agree with your friends thoughts but novarossi tightens the heads down with proper torque pattern and torque tension so i dont feel it is quite as important as it sounds . they have certain specs that they build their engines to and they did not just come up with these specs overnight

H.E.S. takes home the wins in sportsman buggy/truggy with driver Jim Lindbloom and also sweeps buggy/truggy in expert (pro-am class) driver myself

for the record, he has a series of video which he broken in an RB WS7... i am really surprised that after he loosen, reseated and retighthen the button head, he can turn over a brand new engine by hand, that shows that the assembly from the factory might not be 100% as what we think... but then this is RB and not NOVA...

i won't say it is overtighten or improperly torqueing of the screws, tightening the button head with power tools in the factory assureed the four screws might all go in nicely but there might be very SLIGHT difference in the depth of each screw get screwed in and there is where the sleeve might be offset very SLIGHTLY and creating friction and hence the tightness when new... he mentioned that after reseat and retighthen the button head BY HAND VERY VERY SLOWLY, the break in process is much easier and smoother...