18LikesXray NT1
02-28-2010 | 05:18 PM
#4906
Haha, I was surprised already that rx7ttlm didn't noticed that. 
For the pictures I rotated the car, so I think the setupboard wasn't leveled from front to rear.
Here's a picture of all the scales in one view:
As you can see it now only weighs 1593.
I adjust the ride height while the car is in the Hudy setup stands, because I always recheck toe's and camber's after ride height changes.
I measure ride height at the front and rear end of the chassis right in the middle, that's why I always take the bumper off before doing setup. It also makes setting downstops and front ARB tweak a lot easier.
Yes, currently I have exactly the same preload on left and right shocks.
But I will probably have to recheck everything after the first shakedown because all of the suspension parts are new and still binding a bit.
For the pictures I rotated the car, so I think the setupboard wasn't leveled from front to rear.
Here's a picture of all the scales in one view:
As you can see it now only weighs 1593.
I adjust the ride height while the car is in the Hudy setup stands, because I always recheck toe's and camber's after ride height changes.
I measure ride height at the front and rear end of the chassis right in the middle, that's why I always take the bumper off before doing setup. It also makes setting downstops and front ARB tweak a lot easier.
Yes, currently I have exactly the same preload on left and right shocks.
But I will probably have to recheck everything after the first shakedown because all of the suspension parts are new and still binding a bit.
02-28-2010 | 06:09 PM
#4907
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 887
From: NY, New York
It's a 1/10th scale INS Box, it's designed to decrease the noise of the engine, but side effects result in less power due to decreased air flow. He has to run it because of EFRA restrictions. Both RB and Novarossi make them.
02-28-2010 | 07:16 PM
#4908
02-28-2010 | 07:32 PM
#4909
Peened, as in you have a damaged rod end (suspension pickup point) and its causing excess friction. You would replace it on a 1:1 car, so why treat little cars any different?
dont be mad when mr murphy slaps you in the face lol
I watched swaugers mtx4 with one of the prototype engines in 08... wow. that thing was insane..think 21 type power.
dont be mad when mr murphy slaps you in the face lol
I watched swaugers mtx4 with one of the prototype engines in 08... wow. that thing was insane..think 21 type power.
But the rod ends in motorsport come fully assembled and there isn't much you can do to free them up.
With the RC cars the rod ends, or pivotballs are a lot more basic, just two parts which are pushed together. The motorsport ones are of a completely different level, with teflon bushes inside and such to make them 100% slop free but still as smooth as possible.
I like to run the pivotballs/retainers in to get a very good fit, because the tolerances are a lot lower, and most of the time if you build your suspension you end up with some slop if you want everything to move as free as possible.
Offcourse I understand this will put some extra load on the parts, but this extra amount of friction is needed to wear them in and get a good fit.
Normally I also use some valve grinding/polishing compound on the pivotballs during the first build. After one run you end up with perfectly polished pivotballs/retaining nuts.
I've seen the prototype engines run as well, RickV's car during euros, and it looked very good but the engines you are able to buy are really slow.
well, I got one more secret squirrel item knocked off my NT1 to do list. Can't wait for nitro season. When I get my parts I ordered and finish fabricating some things... I will post pictures. Won't look like my Nationals car, but close lol. I don't have any silly things like DS does with his 205 grams of ballast lol, But It will be good. Waiting for some plastics to cure also.. 
Well... First round back in January, the TQ was made with a Ninja MRT... Rest of us were using MAX, RB, Nova 353 and JPs.
The Ninja with a nicely modified crank can pull some nice power. But yeah, Ninjas are a bitch tuning wise, which is why I never looked that way.
You could also drill a few holes in your RB's heatsink to lower its weight.
The Ninja with a nicely modified crank can pull some nice power. But yeah, Ninjas are a bitch tuning wise, which is why I never looked that way.
You could also drill a few holes in your RB's heatsink to lower its weight.
The RB head comes completely drilled from the factory already, so no need for me to do it.
For my MF12 engine I'm currently fabricating a different heatsink, because the current one is a 11-fin skyscraper.
03-01-2010 | 01:22 AM
#4910
stuff
Well I run different pieces than stock and they work amazing, one piece and I tighten them down so there is minimal play, and they don't get sloppy , and its minimal friction.
my club race car isn't to special
, and its minimal friction. my club race car isn't to special
03-01-2010 | 10:56 AM
#4911
Haha, I was surprised already that rx7ttlm didn't noticed that.
For the pictures I rotated the car, so I think the setupboard wasn't leveled from front to rear.
Here's a picture of all the scales in one view:
As you can see it now only weighs 1593.
I adjust the ride height while the car is in the Hudy setup stands, because I always recheck toe's and camber's after ride height changes.
I measure ride height at the front and rear end of the chassis right in the middle, that's why I always take the bumper off before doing setup. It also makes setting downstops and front ARB tweak a lot easier.
Yes, currently I have exactly the same preload on left and right shocks.
But I will probably have to recheck everything after the first shakedown because all of the suspension parts are new and still binding a bit.
For the pictures I rotated the car, so I think the setupboard wasn't leveled from front to rear.
Here's a picture of all the scales in one view:
As you can see it now only weighs 1593.
I adjust the ride height while the car is in the Hudy setup stands, because I always recheck toe's and camber's after ride height changes.
I measure ride height at the front and rear end of the chassis right in the middle, that's why I always take the bumper off before doing setup. It also makes setting downstops and front ARB tweak a lot easier.
Yes, currently I have exactly the same preload on left and right shocks.
But I will probably have to recheck everything after the first shakedown because all of the suspension parts are new and still binding a bit.
03-01-2010 | 11:34 AM
#4912
03-01-2010 | 08:06 PM
#4914
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 887
From: NY, New York
You Could get one of the sets that mugen makes for the MTX4, most of the screws are the same size and I know many people that have gotten away with using them... T0810, and T0109 I believe are the part numbers
03-02-2010 | 01:26 AM
#4915
03-02-2010 | 06:59 AM
#4916
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 169
You Could get one of the sets that mugen makes for the MTX4, most of the screws are the same size and I know many people that have gotten away with using them... T0810, and T0109 I believe are the part numbers
03-02-2010 | 08:05 AM
#4917
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 166
From: Norfolk, England
03-02-2010 | 08:11 AM
#4918
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 887
From: NY, New York
Not many people have used titanium screws to begin with, the car is already under "ROAR" legal weight, and the quality of the Xray screws is pretty legit, so a lot of guys just don't find a need for titanium... They're just not too many company's that make screw kits specific to the car....
03-02-2010 | 10:04 AM
#4919
They make some real quality stuff though.
03-02-2010 | 12:36 PM
#4920
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 166
From: Norfolk, England
DS, send them an e-mail. I've got 2 complete sets sitting next to me on my workbench. Also not to sure if they're listed but got a couple of sets of CVD's for my NT1 made by them.
Just as an aside Titanium Racing make a lot of the fixings for the McLaren and Renault F1 cars.
Just as an aside Titanium Racing make a lot of the fixings for the McLaren and Renault F1 cars.