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Old 02-28-2010, 06:18 PM   #4906
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Haha, I was surprised already that rx7ttlm didn't noticed that.
For the pictures I rotated the car, so I think the setupboard wasn't leveled from front to rear.
Here's a picture of all the scales in one view:

As you can see it now only weighs 1593.
I adjust the ride height while the car is in the Hudy setup stands, because I always recheck toe's and camber's after ride height changes.
I measure ride height at the front and rear end of the chassis right in the middle, that's why I always take the bumper off before doing setup. It also makes setting downstops and front ARB tweak a lot easier.

Yes, currently I have exactly the same preload on left and right shocks.
But I will probably have to recheck everything after the first shakedown because all of the suspension parts are new and still binding a bit.
what type of air filter is that ,where do you get them
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Old 02-28-2010, 07:09 PM   #4907
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what type of air filter is that ,where do you get them
It's a 1/10th scale INS Box, it's designed to decrease the noise of the engine, but side effects result in less power due to decreased air flow. He has to run it because of EFRA restrictions. Both RB and Novarossi make them.
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:16 PM   #4908
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what type of air filter is that ,where do you get them
That's the Xceed INS box, you can get them at pretty much every shop which carries Serpent or Xceed.
Ordered mine at rcmarket.com
I favor the Xceed version over the Nova or Mugen INS box.
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:32 PM   #4909
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Peened, as in you have a damaged rod end (suspension pickup point) and its causing excess friction. You would replace it on a 1:1 car, so why treat little cars any different?

dont be mad when mr murphy slaps you in the face lol

I watched swaugers mtx4 with one of the prototype engines in 08... wow. that thing was insane..think 21 type power.
Yes offcourse, if something is damaged you replace it.
But the rod ends in motorsport come fully assembled and there isn't much you can do to free them up.
With the RC cars the rod ends, or pivotballs are a lot more basic, just two parts which are pushed together. The motorsport ones are of a completely different level, with teflon bushes inside and such to make them 100% slop free but still as smooth as possible.
I like to run the pivotballs/retainers in to get a very good fit, because the tolerances are a lot lower, and most of the time if you build your suspension you end up with some slop if you want everything to move as free as possible.
Offcourse I understand this will put some extra load on the parts, but this extra amount of friction is needed to wear them in and get a good fit.
Normally I also use some valve grinding/polishing compound on the pivotballs during the first build. After one run you end up with perfectly polished pivotballs/retaining nuts.

I've seen the prototype engines run as well, RickV's car during euros, and it looked very good but the engines you are able to buy are really slow.

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well, I got one more secret squirrel item knocked off my NT1 to do list. Can't wait for nitro season. When I get my parts I ordered and finish fabricating some things... I will post pictures. Won't look like my Nationals car, but close lol. I don't have any silly things like DS does with his 205 grams of ballast lol, But It will be good. Waiting for some plastics to cure also..
Now I'm curious, something better as my ultra low CG ballast.

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Well... First round back in January, the TQ was made with a Ninja MRT... Rest of us were using MAX, RB, Nova 353 and JPs.

The Ninja with a nicely modified crank can pull some nice power. But yeah, Ninjas are a bitch tuning wise, which is why I never looked that way.

You could also drill a few holes in your RB's heatsink to lower its weight.
On my local track they are about .3-.5 seconds a lap slower compared to a tuned Nova engine.

The RB head comes completely drilled from the factory already, so no need for me to do it.
For my MF12 engine I'm currently fabricating a different heatsink, because the current one is a 11-fin skyscraper.
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Old 03-01-2010, 02:22 AM   #4910
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Well I run different pieces than stock and they work amazing, one piece and I tighten them down so there is minimal play, and they don't get sloppy , and its minimal friction.

my club race car isn't to special
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:56 AM   #4911
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Haha, I was surprised already that rx7ttlm didn't noticed that.
For the pictures I rotated the car, so I think the setupboard wasn't leveled from front to rear.
Here's a picture of all the scales in one view:

As you can see it now only weighs 1593.
I adjust the ride height while the car is in the Hudy setup stands, because I always recheck toe's and camber's after ride height changes.
I measure ride height at the front and rear end of the chassis right in the middle, that's why I always take the bumper off before doing setup. It also makes setting downstops and front ARB tweak a lot easier.

Yes, currently I have exactly the same preload on left and right shocks.
But I will probably have to recheck everything after the first shakedown because all of the suspension parts are new and still binding a bit.
Good balance & LW !!
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Old 03-01-2010, 12:34 PM   #4912
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Good balance & LW !!
Thanks, everything you see in the picture, except the engine and scales, comes from your shop.
Good service and fast shipping, so thumbs up to you as well.
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:27 PM   #4913
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Hi everyone, i would like to get a set of titanium screw set for the nt1, but the only one i have seen is the 3racing, so which one is the best titanium set for the nt1?

thanx
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:06 PM   #4914
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Hi everyone, i would like to get a set of titanium screw set for the nt1, but the only one i have seen is the 3racing, so which one is the best titanium set for the nt1?

thanx
You Could get one of the sets that mugen makes for the MTX4, most of the screws are the same size and I know many people that have gotten away with using them... T0810, and T0109 I believe are the part numbers
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:26 AM   #4915
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You Could get one of the sets that mugen makes for the MTX4, most of the screws are the same size and I know many people that have gotten away with using them... T0810, and T0109 I believe are the part numbers
+1 I use them on my cars. http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id=17084
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:59 AM   #4916
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You Could get one of the sets that mugen makes for the MTX4, most of the screws are the same size and I know many people that have gotten away with using them... T0810, and T0109 I believe are the part numbers
my english it's not so good so forgive me if i'm wrong, but what you are telling me is that many people is no longer using titanium screws on their nt1?
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:05 AM   #4917
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Titanium Racing do a complete screw set for the NT1.

www.titaniumracing.com
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:11 AM   #4918
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my english it's not so good so forgive me if i'm wrong, but what you are telling me is that many people is no longer using titanium screws on their nt1?
Not many people have used titanium screws to begin with, the car is already under "ROAR" legal weight, and the quality of the Xray screws is pretty legit, so a lot of guys just don't find a need for titanium... They're just not too many company's that make screw kits specific to the car....
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:04 AM   #4919
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Titanium Racing do a complete screw set for the NT1.

www.titaniumracing.com
I can't seem to find it on the website, only kits for the electric xray cars.
They make some real quality stuff though.
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:36 PM   #4920
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DS, send them an e-mail. I've got 2 complete sets sitting next to me on my workbench. Also not to sure if they're listed but got a couple of sets of CVD's for my NT1 made by them.
Just as an aside Titanium Racing make a lot of the fixings for the McLaren and Renault F1 cars.
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