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Old 05-14-2009 | 11:38 AM
  #6781  
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Originally Posted by will g
this is exactly why i dont come on rc tech much more because people bash people and dont give them a chance to help maybe not right away but people are too damn quick to judge a person or company im sure massive mods is great i have not personally delt with mark and i have delt with rex welch a bunch and will keep coming back . it takes couple days for me to get with him too but i dont care because i know he will call back when available. im not only saying this because i am a sponsored guy either ive known him for about 4 plus years now.

all you guys that are having carb issues is because these carbs are alittle touchy, i have nether swapped a nova rossi/os carb to it because i know how they work with tune. the low end on these motors are very responsive on how the motor runs. i dont see the point of swaping carbs you might as well buy a different engine and run it . i am running the new ebmods 5 port and it has the coated crank and wrist pin and slide carb and its nice. carb is alot smoother and all the internals are not wearing as bad . Will G
I'm not bashing Mr. Jones I am stating a god damn fact! we are not talking a couple of weeks I am talking months more then 4,I can tell you that . So don't put up my post and cry picking on race factor, because it is a fact. Fact no service!
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Old 05-14-2009 | 11:56 AM
  #6782  
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
I'm not bashing Mr. Jones I am stating a god damn fact! we are not talking a couple of weeks I am talking months more then 4,I can tell you that . So don't put up my post and cry picking on race factor, because it is a fact. Fact no service!
sorry to make it an inconvenience to you i just figured would throw my own facts in there too

Last edited by will g; 05-14-2009 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 05-14-2009 | 12:16 PM
  #6783  
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Originally Posted by spura
Hello Go gurus

Need help for stop chasing tune...

What might cause this, and what to do-

Carb has been sealed, gap is about 0,99mm, fully warmed, tuned at half tank but, in finals (30min.) when you fill up, for few laps it does not clear up and is slower,but does not really bog, after 3-4laps it sort of wake up and start show power of 5port, at the end of tank it scream and fly, at end of tank temp is about 150C.And then again as you fill tank story goes again

Thanks
im no go guru but it sounds like your back pressure line is too long and /or your pipe pressure nipple is being slightly restricted ... i would also maybe lean top slightly and richen bottom a tad and see what happens ...in most cases like this %75 of the time its not the motor its fuel,fuel tank,fuel filter,fuel/pressure lines ...but im curious to know the fix please let all of us know


do you clean the motor out with throttle while you in the pits?
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Old 05-14-2009 | 01:20 PM
  #6784  
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Originally Posted by spura
Hello Go gurus

Need help for stop chasing tune...

What might cause this, and what to do-

Carb has been sealed, gap is about 0,99mm, fully warmed, tuned at half tank but, in finals (30min.) when you fill up, for few laps it does not clear up and is slower,but does not really bog, after 3-4laps it sort of wake up and start show power of 5port, at the end of tank it scream and fly, at end of tank temp is about 150C.And then again as you fill tank story goes again

Thanks
Sounds to me like the classic GO tuning error of too rich on the bottom and too lean on the top - normally tied in with an idle gap that is too wide (even though you checked it). It really causes problems because of the longer LSN needle in these carbs. When you change the idle gap you effectivly change the LSN setting, because the LSN sits in the spray bar, which moves in and out with the throttle slide. With the long LSN sitting so far into the spray bar on these carbs, an incorrect idle gap can cause all sorts of problems. Once you set it right these carbs are awesome.

The setting I think you have gives a false idle even though the bottom end is way rich. It will result in "sort of OK" performance, but the engine will run leaner and leaner as the tank level drops, quite often finishing a race too lean and too hot. 150C is pretty warm. 120 - 130C is more like it.
Idle gap should be around .7 - 1mm. Good way to set the gap right is to warm engine up thouroughly (run a tank). Go for a short burst and bring the buggy in. If the idle starts off high, then drops after a few seconds this is a sign that the bottom end is too rich (and possibly the idle gap too wide). Lean the bottom end 1/8 and try again. The more you lean the bottom, the longer it should idle high before dropping off. Keep leaning the bottom end until you bring the buggy in and the idle stays high (the bottom setting is not loading up the crankcase anymore with excess fuel). Once you reach this point you can now decrease the idle to a satisfactory level.
You should now have the correct idle gap and the correct (or pretty close) LSN setting. IMPORTANT - because you were running rich on the bottom before, this was probably masking a lean top end, so now reset (richen) the top end (probably around 1/4 - 1/2 turn), whatever it takes to get full revs with good smoke. As a guide, if it's a long LSN carb you don't want to be any leaner than 1/2 a turn in from flush on the HSN. Now you should be racing.
If this does not fix your problem take the tank out and pressure test it. Many a weird tuning problem can be put down to a small split in the seam of the tank or faulty O ring seal in the lid.

Last edited by grizz1; 05-14-2009 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 05-14-2009 | 02:39 PM
  #6785  
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Originally Posted by will g
sorry to make it an inconvenience to you i just figured would throw my own facts in there too
Look if you can get ahold of him I need some parts or-0014 for 2
or-0004 for 2
that should keep me racing for awhile..
Also I am hoping the new web site includes a store, If not oh well.
Look I don't mean to come across as an a hole,but really those seals that I need 6-8 dollars max for all? and I cannot get parts here in the states for my engine?
Like I said I had a problem I solved it nothing more nothing less. I will keep my big mouth shut about Mr. Jones and his company and spend my dime else where.
Sorry if I offended any one.
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Old 05-14-2009 | 03:32 PM
  #6786  
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
Look if you can get ahold of him I need some parts or-0014 for 2
or-0004 for 2
that should keep me racing for awhile..
Also I am hoping the new web site includes a store, If not oh well.
Look I don't mean to come across as an a hole,but really those seals that I need 6-8 dollars max for all? and I cannot get parts here in the states for my engine?
Like I said I had a problem I solved it nothing more nothing less. I will keep my big mouth shut about Mr. Jones and his company and spend my dime else where.
Sorry if I offended any one.
i thought i had a couple extra orings that your looking but i know i used 1 the other day i have a call into racefactor now.. i do know he had an order come in to fill some backorders at various stores on the web thnx Will G

Last edited by will g; 05-14-2009 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 05-14-2009 | 04:21 PM
  #6787  
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Originally Posted by spura
Hello Go gurus

Need help for stop chasing tune...

What might cause this, and what to do-

Carb has been sealed, gap is about 0,99mm, fully warmed, tuned at half tank but, in finals (30min.) when you fill up, for few laps it does not clear up and is slower,but does not really bog, after 3-4laps it sort of wake up and start show power of 5port, at the end of tank it scream and fly, at end of tank temp is about 150C.And then again as you fill tank story goes again

Thanks
Check the silicone gasket between the pipe and header.
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Old 05-14-2009 | 04:32 PM
  #6788  
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i just talked to russell he said monday he has parts shipping to various stores and will be stocked up some more
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Old 05-14-2009 | 04:35 PM
  #6789  
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grizz1 is right about tune too rich on bottom and lean on top i did that for i dont know how long but i finally got it figured out but most of the settings like for say my 5 port is right at flush on top and bottom and the 3 port i have is 1 turn in on bottom and about flush on top and they run great
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Old 05-14-2009 | 04:57 PM
  #6790  
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Talking to Ed Bridges the other day he said he noticed a little more piston pin wear than some other motors. I was checking some of my older motors that have 5 or more gallons on them and noticed it too. This is the reason he had the pin coated on the Ebm5. All the newest stock motors I have sold also have the coated wrist pin. I know quite a few people have been replacing the pin when changing the rod, I would recommend it.

Rex
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Old 05-14-2009 | 04:58 PM
  #6791  
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Hey everyone thought I would give a little review from my first go engine.

I bought it used off the site had 4 gallons on it and the bearings were replaced at 3 gallons and the con rod sleeve and piston replaced 3/4 a gallon ago. When I got the motor the rod was hitting the case come to find out the guy I bought it from put the piston in backwards after he cleaned it to send it. Thanks to a guy on the site I fliped it 180 and put it back in and headed off to my the race. I am running the engine in a 8ight 1.0 buggy and I qualified 2nd and finished 3rd in the buggy A-main. Running 20% Nitrotane I got about 8 min of run time out of a tank and temps about 230 and the engine idled like a dream. LOVE this engine!!!!
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Old 05-14-2009 | 05:07 PM
  #6792  
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Good deal Jfab and you didnt have to break it in you got the best of both worlds lol.
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Old 05-14-2009 | 05:19 PM
  #6793  
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I just got hold of a brand new 7 port engine and a FEMCA 0801 tuned pipe. Will this be a good combo to run in my truggy?

Thanks.
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Old 05-14-2009 | 05:45 PM
  #6794  
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Originally Posted by Rampokker
I just got hold of a brand new 7 port engine and a FEMCA 0801 tuned pipe. Will this be a good combo to run in my truggy?

Thanks.
It will be sweet The 7 has more than enough bottom for a truggy.
Run 1.1 springs and all alloy shoes. You will love it.
Read back a bit on this thread for run in and tuning tips. I will PM you a good run in procedure now. Have fun
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Old 05-14-2009 | 05:51 PM
  #6795  
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Originally Posted by Rampokker
I just got hold of a brand new 7 port engine and a FEMCA 0801 tuned pipe. Will this be a good combo to run in my truggy?

Thanks.
5-port. I got a used ebmodded 5port and put in my buggy. I have been trying to tame it down for some time, but will only go so low. If you get the chance get the 5 port the low end is stump pulling.not that the 7 is a slouch either. I am running 2 of them one turbo other non turbo. but the 5 is more bottom end. your above combo should work good.
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