Go-Tech Engines Thread
The Go 2072 is an awesome pipe Max did a great job on that one. I think the rule is when they do a same pipe different name from same factory , it has to be at least 10% different to comply with copyright regulations in Taiwan.
Now as long as people know what the MSN does then youre fine. just mark it when its set right so when it shifts, and in my experience MSN needles can shift, just rurn it back.
+1: Have had one shift, and unless I had marked it before, it would have been very hard to get it reset at all three needles to run propley. It does not have to move far off factory setting to upset the apple kart so to speak.
+1: Have had one shift, and unless I had marked it before, it would have been very hard to get it reset at all three needles to run propley. It does not have to move far off factory setting to upset the apple kart so to speak.
The only carb i like better than the MG is the 2004 Nova M Power all alloy carb.. man that carb got me a woody ! hmmm
thats the only one i could say gave me a noticeable difference in tuning and performance quality but at $140 a pop they arent cheap but if you can find one its a worth while investment.
thats the only one i could say gave me a noticeable difference in tuning and performance quality but at $140 a pop they arent cheap but if you can find one its a worth while investment.
The only carb i like better than the MG is the 2004 Nova M Power all alloy carb.. man that carb got me a woody ! hmmm
thats the only one i could say gave me a noticeable difference in tuning and performance quality but at $140 a pop they arent cheap but if you can find one its a worth while investment.
thats the only one i could say gave me a noticeable difference in tuning and performance quality but at $140 a pop they arent cheap but if you can find one its a worth while investment.
I still have one of M (mugen branded) onroad nova running with that carb Mark.
It was run in a mugen Sting their first onroad 1/8th, that was a great car! its now in my custom made carbon fibre dragster, its only been run a few times a year since I built it in 1996, sadly no rc dragracing in NZ, amazingly motor can sit a whole year with no ARO and fire up evey time.
It was run in a mugen Sting their first onroad 1/8th, that was a great car! its now in my custom made carbon fibre dragster, its only been run a few times a year since I built it in 1996, sadly no rc dragracing in NZ, amazingly motor can sit a whole year with no ARO and fire up evey time.
I still have one of M (mugen branded) onroad nova running with that carb Mark.
It was run in a mugen Sting their first onroad 1/8th, that was a great car! its now in my custom made carbon fibre dragster, its only been run a few times a year since I built it in 1996, sadly no rc dragracing in NZ, amazingly motor can sit a whole year with no ARO and fire up evey time.
It was run in a mugen Sting their first onroad 1/8th, that was a great car! its now in my custom made carbon fibre dragster, its only been run a few times a year since I built it in 1996, sadly no rc dragracing in NZ, amazingly motor can sit a whole year with no ARO and fire up evey time.
top carb ! they managed to get an all alloy carb not to pre heat the fuel.
I'm running my GXII in my GT8 on road. I've been running O'Donnell 97T plugs in it, but I'd like to try a cold plug. It's been getting way hotter than normal here lately. So what plugs could I use that wouldn't screw up the head button? I know the 99T is a medium/cold but I'd like to try something even colder than that.
I thought about those, but don't they sit differently than the O'Donnell plugs?? I really like how my GXII runs in the cooler weather with the 97T, just feel like with this 100 degree ambient temp that I need something cooler. Guess if I try the OS plugs I would just have to stick with them correct?
I thought about those, but don't they sit differently than the O'Donnell plugs?? I really like how my GXII runs in the cooler weather with the 97T, just feel like with this 100 degree ambient temp that I need something cooler. Guess if I try the OS plugs I would just have to stick with them correct?
The GXII-5RHO front bearing size is 7x19x6.
The 17011 Nova bearing is 7x19x6.3.
If I'm correct, the extra width of the Nova bearing is because it has double seals at the front side. It would fit in the GO, but the extra width would cause it to protrude very slightly. This would then cause the clutch bell to be 0.3mm (about 0.013-0.014") farther forward than previously. I'm sure alternate shimming of the flywheel and clutch could compensate for this.
The 17011 Nova bearing is 7x19x6.3.
If I'm correct, the extra width of the Nova bearing is because it has double seals at the front side. It would fit in the GO, but the extra width would cause it to protrude very slightly. This would then cause the clutch bell to be 0.3mm (about 0.013-0.014") farther forward than previously. I'm sure alternate shimming of the flywheel and clutch could compensate for this.
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The GXII-5RHO front bearing size is 7x19x6.
The 17011 Nova bearing is 7x19x6.3.
If I'm correct, the extra width of the Nova bearing is because it has double seals at the front side. It would fit in the GO, but the extra width would cause it to protrude very slightly. This would then cause the clutch bell to be 0.3mm (about 0.013-0.014") farther forward than previously. I'm sure alternate shimming of the flywheel and clutch could compensate for this.
The 17011 Nova bearing is 7x19x6.3.
If I'm correct, the extra width of the Nova bearing is because it has double seals at the front side. It would fit in the GO, but the extra width would cause it to protrude very slightly. This would then cause the clutch bell to be 0.3mm (about 0.013-0.014") farther forward than previously. I'm sure alternate shimming of the flywheel and clutch could compensate for this.
Thanks!



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