Well as long as the engine is in good condition and still has comp. Id say a rick brake engine for 100 bucks is a steal! Mind you a lot can happen in 7 tanks. Did he idle it during run in?

I don't know why he would sell out after 7 tanks. I passed on out because there's no telling what it h bass been through.

AMain lists two piston/sleeve/rod sets for the Go GXII-5RHO

GOT21-2205X (includes rod) $68.99

GOT21-2105X (no rod) $84.99

What is the difference and why the major difference in price?

Have you asked a main? Maybe they made a mistake.

No. If there is a mistake which will favor the potential buyer, I don't want them to change it.

If there is a mistake they would be dropping the 2105x to lower price most likely. If you are replacing the P/S, you probably want the R anyways, plus wristpin and G clips. The 2205x has been there for a while, I bought it for mine.

You are a very sneaky man. . . . but i like you mmmwahhah

This is my first shot at running GO motors and I am wanting to see if I can get some pointers from the more experienced tuners for this line of engines.

It as Murnan Modded Go Technology GXII-5RHO 5+2 Port .21 Buggy Engine w/EFRA 2072 Pipe (Turbo Plug) with a brand new carb (GOTGX21-2000-P2) and a RayAracing resize with new rear and front bearings (steel).

Running 30% 11 Byrons Fuel and an OS P3 plug. Shimmed with one silver 0.3mm and one copper shim 0.2mm.

Just finished breaking the motor back in, and took it to my first club race. Motor ran amazing with still high compression. Run Time at about 9min on my MBX6r.

1st 7min qual (7.:29)- perfect run- good smoke plenty on the bottom end. little less than 1/5 in the tank left.

2nd 7min qual (dead P3 at 4min) - changed plugs (brand new P3) leaned bottom 1 hr.

3rd 7 min qual (7:23) perfect run- good smoke plenty of bottom end 1/4 tank left in tank (Qualified 3rd Overall held fastest 2 laps of the night mid-race)

A-Main 20min 1st Place (20:31) flawless run - great smoke, first pit no issues at [8min 15 sec], 2nd pit fast fill up at [14min 20 sec] (did not get a chance to blow out the engine properly) engine stuttered a bit on pit lane, but did not stall out.

At the end of the race- pulled buggy into pit lane and engine just stopped. Tank was about 1/4 tank remaining temp was 236 degrees.

Went to marshall next race. Came back heated motor back up and would not start. Pulled plug, and found it had gone too.

No complaints whatsoever on this motor on performance as it is still re-breaking in all the way, but I don't want to ruin it by having a filliment fall into my motor if the glow plugs keep croaking like this.

Sorry for the long post and so much detail, but I need some direction on what I may be doing wrong, shimming etc.


Thanks,

How many gallons (total) on the engine. Have you ever replaced the rod? Did RayAracing check for rod/crank wear?

As Nitroexpress said any wear to those 2 areas will cause plug problems.
I would run a cooler plug like a P4 or OD 97T...was the plugs wire distorted and a bit pushed in?

I to have had that richening up during fueling, its been a long running debate to wether its tuning or a mugen tank thing.
It seem strange how a plug can be working then dead the next time you go to run but its simply broken the wire during the run but stayed glowing until you shut it down or it flames out.

i'm running my GXII un modded but i'd like to see what the muran mod looks like if you ever strip it please post some pics...Hey great job on the win though.

Craig

a P4 plug is super hot

I'd say from the looks of it and talking to the previous owner prob about 4 gallons before Ray worked his magic. I did not send in the crank for eval, but he made no mention of the wear on the rod on the tech notes.

That said, I generally heed his advice and switch the rod anyway after I rebreak it even if I didn't see/feel any slop (pretty cheap insurance anyway). In this case, I got lazy and finished the break in during practice- it was running so great, I took a chance and raced it without replacing the rod.

With your feedback, I will tear down and replace, rod, pin, and clips that I had already purchased. I'll roll the bones on the crank for now as it still looks decent, but I do appreciate the fact that it could also need replacing soon.

I'll post further details after the changes and subsequent runs.

thanks again.

Thanks- running conditions were awesome.

As far the plugs go, the first plug's filliment snapped right off at the bottom, but the coil wedged itself against the inner wall and did not fall into the engine. I removed the head and backplate to check for damage and found nothing.

the second plug just got pushed in, looked pretty mangled, but did not break.


On engine, I've only had this one to look at, I'm generally a JX Ninja guy and haven't seen an unmodded GXII P/S myself.

I'd be glad to snap some pics and post here when I crack it back open, but I do remember it looked kick ass when I handled it before, which is why I decided to buy it and put a little bit of $ into it- still very reasonable.

FYI...Last week Amain had the carb on sale for like $15.99, now it's $42. Should have gotten 2.

I was about to say leave it alone and switch to the OD097T until I read about the plug damage. Slop in the crank, rod, pin, or piston pin-holes could definitely cause this as has been mentioned. As a rule, I will only use OD097T plugs in my 2 GXII's. Regardless of temps or humidity they run perfectly, but mine are both unmodified so Murnan may be where you have to inquire for your plug choice. If he says the OD097T should still work, definitely give it a shot. The P3's never last long at all for me.

Not sure about the refueling thing if there's a question about the tank, but you might try the this plug and give us a shout back on any effect.

You may want to check your facts before posting info for other people
P4 is a cooler plug than a P3.

http://www.osengines.com/accys/glowplugs.html