Hi guy's, I just put away a Go 5PT in favor of a new Sirio for my buggy.
Hit & miss for me on tuning finally got the best of me and purchased a new mill.
Anyway after pulling it apart to clean it for storing I found the piston crown really dark with goo as well as the turbo button and seamed to be more on the exhaust side than everywhere else, also when it would flameout after about 8-9min on track it would blow smoke from the pipe looking like a steam engine for a few seconds

Running:
Maxy's 20% / OD 97 Plug / Sirio carb / Dynamite 086 pipe.

Also after I pulled it apart for cleaning I found the front bearing was leaking bad, I found a lot of goo on the Flywheel, clutch & chassis. Maybe going on for a while I think it may also contribute to tuning problem, what u guy's think ?

Hi E-Dog, sounds to me like you had a case of too rich on the bottom and too lean on the top, a common senario when not tuning the long LSN carb properly. Hence the blackened piston top and the excess oil coming from the front bearing (too rich down low) and the flame outs (too lean on top perhaps).
Before you give up on the 5 Port (which is a really great motor), get yourself an intermediate or short LSN needle and try it again. They run great on the long needle, but if you can't get your head around the difference in tuning then make the swap to a shorter needle which will tune like any other motor.

Hi thanks, but I was using a Sirio carb that had a short LSN. it was running pretty good for a time but my last 2 times using it (including a big race) it started with these symtoms and I got agravated by it .
So I was thinking about asking Q's on so maybe I could use it as a backup mill.

Guys,

i just received one 2072 new pipe from GO Engines, anyone here already tested ?, how it performs ?, it replace the 2047 one ... and its already listed on the EFRA list for 2009 ...

thanks,

I want 1 of them soon as they get here I think I am going to try 1. I am still waiting on the tools and turbo plugs.

Just to be safe as soon as I fully break the engine in I am going to replace the connecting rod. For only around $20 the insurance is worth it.

The pinch is still very extremely tight.
I will have the buggy finished somethime this week and I will let you know how the break in procedure went. (keeping it above 200 but under 260?)

Thanks for looking after me and letting me know that the instructions included with the motor is not the best procedure.

As far as i know, Turbo plugs are available on the factory ... so contact Russell to know when will be in USA ...

Yeah 200 and you'll find that they once broke run well not very hot the most mine have ever been was like 245 and that was running the tank dry so it leaned out at the end 215-225 is my normal running temps.

Massive, or anyone really, where can I get new O-rings for the Carb needles? I found the needles but they don't look like they come with O-rings. My needles are fine, but the O-rings have had it. It's a 5pt if that matters.

New cooling head we will be marketing.this will fit GOTECH EBM5.Also looking for other engines people would like to see a head for.all CNC machined.we have a total of 30 years cnc expirience and are open to other products also.

look for this head to starting this weekend at local tracks in pa.

give us your feed back.

also to engine modders we are open to working with you on your own head design ,engraving,and anodising for your own distintive look.

Donut you close to me, I want 1 of those. That looks sweet how tall is it compared to the newer GO heads.

looks cool,hope u dont mind me attch to my post should be easier to view...
can u lightn its weight up by machining holes in the cooling head ...and how much does this 1 in the pic weigh?

looks like a well designed head.....im sure malik will test it out soon?..lol

If you can't find any O rings just use a piece of silicone fuel line.
Cut a piece just a fraction wider than the groove in the needle. Use a pair of long nosed pliers to hold the tubing open while you fit it over the end of the needle. Tuck it into the groove as good as you can. Now screw the needle in until all the tubing is out of site. This will shave a ring of excess tubing off from around the outside. You now have a perfect needle O ring which is fuel resistant and a perfect fit. This is all I use on my needles now. The tubing won't dry out and leak like the factory O rings. I have run this in my engines for over a year now with no problems at all.

Thanks Grizz, I'll give this a shot. Took my needles out to clean the carb and I checked the O-rings and 1 broke in half! I know where I can get fuel line.

Grizz what fuel line you using? Some are thicker than others you know, that sounds sweet what about AE green slime you use it or no since its actually not an o-ring?