Of course not normal........ loose the screw of side plates and bulkhead, re-tighten the screw carefully and it would be fine.

Thank you.. I will give that a try.

I tried reassemble the front and rear bulkhead but there was still left and right movement on the diffs. Ended up, I've used shim to stop the play. Anyone one who also used shim on the diffs?

Is that right, I never have this problem.

I thought you may have to unassemble the diff. to check, also check the bearings too.

Did you car crashed before?

Shimming your diffs is not unusual. I've had to shim the diffs in every car I've ever built.

The stock belts are tight. The KFactory ones free up the car a lot and don't require you to cut the teeth.

I just purchased this kit. It was like this out of the box. Do you recommend unassemble this kit and put it together again?

Did you shim the diffs on your E4?

I have E4, E4RS, E4FS, E4JS in home and I don't have any problem as you mentioned.

Yes, you may disassemble the diff. and take a look whether the assembling was correct.

guys, i just bought E4 JS..handling is good..so agressive in turning..but i had a problem when i want to install my brushless motor or install a silver can motor...is there any hop up from TM or KF so my BL motor can fit to My E4JS??? thanks.

Some BL motors didn' fit into the car because the motor can is too long. I am using Novak and Orion BL motor and have no problem. However, I have told TM to improve this problem. I believe they will have option later.

I have a Trinity Duo 17.5BL motor from eXpress motorsports in my E4JS...

Yes. You want just a tick of side play so the bearings don't bind up. Out of the box they're too loose in the bulkheads. Manufacturing tolerances will always create a little slop in any part to part fit. That why we have shims to begin with. There's nothing wrong with your kit. I'd be more worried if you didn't have some play between the bulkheads. One good hit could move the bulkhead and bind the diff up. You wouldn't know until the run was over and you burned up a perfectly good bearing.

Thank you guys for all the info.

i'm using Noval motor BL...maybe i'll wait for the hop up from TM..
thanks a lot guys..

I'm running Novak SS17.5s in both of mine for VTA.

What I did:
1. Take off the chassis stiffening brace.
2. Pull the sensor wire through the belt.
3. Install the motor. I had to massage it in due to the motor shaft, but it works.
4. Put the brace back on.
5. Tie wrap the sensor wires to the motor wires leaving enough loop to not rub the belts. It works nice, doesn't pinch any wires and the belts never touch the sensor wire.

This leaves me with about an 1/8" gap from the endbell to the chassis.