I am going to run buggy. But what do you guys mean by runing them in and how can i do this carefully???

What clutch setup you have ?

I have posted here that I was having problems with my GO 3-port Race tuning it. I could get top end but no low end or the opposite. If I did get it in the middle it would run like complete Dog Crap!!! Well I had a JP-1 pipe on it the whole time and was told to put a GO 0801 on it instead..... WOW That thing SCREAMED!! Never had it run like that before. Now I can see the power all you guys are talking about on the 3-port! I just could not believe the pipe could to that much difference. And before someone says well maybe you tuned it right this time or something I just want to say I never even touched the needles after I installed the pipe and it ran that way. All I did after about 2 tanks was lean out the LSN about 2 hours and that was it. Running 225 degrees

i had that problem on my old 5 port it turned out to be way too lean but once i got the tune correct it ran like a raped dog on an os 2050 which is why i was wondering how it would go on the 3 port

also does the 3port come with plug? if not what's suggested?

Running in is a period were you carefully run the motor very rich but at as close to normal running temps as possible. This is to bed the piston and sleeve properly so you get peak performance and long life from your motor.
If you just run it hard straight out of the box, you won't get the best performance and it won't last long.
It is normally achieved by putting foil on the cooling head and running around 12 tanks through the motor. Go to page 78 on this forum and near the bottom of the page is a very good run in procedure from one of the Go distributors who posts here. Follow this and you will be cool. Once you have done the 12 tanks tune your motor according to the Massive Mods post on page 131 of this forum. Basically HSN 1/2 a turn in from flush and LSN 2 1/2 turns in from flush. You will get max performance after you have run around 1 to 1 1/2 gal through your motor. The Go motors are very tight when new and take a little fuel through them for the metal pinch to subside, but this makes for a long lasting and good performing motor. Don't forget to heat the motor before starting when it's new or you won't be able to turn it over on the starter box !!! - not easily anyway. Hope this all helps.

The 053 pipe should be sweet. I was running Dynamite 053 before the 0801 and it worked fine. You gotta try the 0801 though. The 7 Port really rips with this pipe

I can't see .5 mm on the restrictor making that much difference.
Clutch - alloy shoes and 1.1mm springs ?
Turbo plug ? Does make a difference.
Correct shimming ? (2 thin copper and 1 alloy)

That's it. I am out of ideas

Hey guys, long time no see lol, sorry for the absence or lack of help we have been moving to another location and things are finaly setteling in.


as for Racefactor, i am fully aware of the current issues going on with the company, i have had phone contact conversations concerning the problem. Yes they are redoing some things and will be up in full stride soon. as a racer or customer and dealer for Racefactor and GO engines i can say they have always had killer customer service and support, i along with others try our best to offer all the help possible on GO engines.

Russell has way more on his plate than i would care to have, so just give it some time and things will be back to normal soon, if i can help with anything let me know.

Clutch > alloy shoes and 1.1mm springs
Turbo plug > O.S. P3
Shimming > 0.3 mm
Fuel > Tornado; 20% Nitro, 14 Oil

I will try with 25% Nitro fuel with less oil in it.
Is 10% of oil enough?

For 25% nitro fuel I need 0.5 mm shimming?

Thanks,
Chipo

from what i have seen by alot of the post on this thread is everyone is buying a 170.00 dollar rip off of a novarossi engine, then spending a 70-100 on a novarossi or rb carb to make the engines runs correctly, so you have spent 240-270 and still have a 170.00 engine that most likely wont last as long as the engine it copied, whats the sense in that? i would support the people they have copied, you cant make the same quality and workmanship at there price point

Come on dude this is not a thread to bash on their engines i think these motors are really good and affordable thats why im getting one because thier engines are cheap and from specs these engines look like they can pack a punch.

my bad its probably an upgrade from a mach 427, if you need a 170 dollar engine buy a 3 port rb or novarossi and u will probably have alot better luck out of it, you might wanna read some of the post on here where the guys are talking about changing carbs and all the issues they are having, os has the vg in the 150.00 price range, gotech basically bought a few different brands of engines and just started copying them

Im not going to get on here and argue with you but one guy did the whole carb thing and if you read the guys who had problems either got them resolved by the manufactorer or they just didn't tune thier engine the right way. but seriously show some respect and don't bash on something especially if you havn't had one that just isn't right.

+ 1 Russell and Dana ROCK !!!

As a frequent reader and seldom poster on this thread, this can be made to look like the truth, the internet always has a way of bringing out the negative in people.

HOWEVER, I think the people who got a Go engine and immediatly started complaining about the tune came from other motors that may have different settings or ways to tune them. I just got done breaking in a 5 port with the STOCK carb (properly sealed) and just putting an aggressive tune on it. The thing tunes fine, idles like a champ, doesn't "bog" like some say, and I'm sure it will last 6-8 gallons like the last one did. Some people get longer life but I run mine for max performance due to the competitiveness of the races I go to. It's not uncommon for me to run 270 in the summer and it keeps on taking it.

Every motor is machined, and there is margin for error, but it isn't frequent. You'll read problems with OS, Nova, Werks... on any forum and alot (not all) of the time it's related to user error.

If you feel you'd rather drop another $100 for the "real thing", then go ahead, and you can join their thread when you do. Having you go there and losing your negative buzz here is better for GO than having you buy one motor and keep dogging them here. Did you get beat by one and now your upset because they spent less than you? I see people spend $400 on motors all day and they won't even get off pit road without flaming out, or they suck dirt then blame it on a POS motor, happens all the time, and the web is where people take their frustration out.

I ran a whole season with great performance and results thanks to a great budget product.

You really don't know what your talking about. A Vg has way more problems than any Go ever did. I think you should try a Vg, Novarossi 3 port or a mach motor and a Go, and then tell us which is better. I have had all above except for a Vg but I've rebuilt Vg's.
I rebuild all kinds of motors for people, Speed V-specs to Collari .32's. I pinch quite a few motors and put in bearings etc. The material quality is just as good as any Italian motor, and way better than any Os. product. (except for the speed crank that coating is killer)
Let us know.

Rex (Notice I put my name down)