even with the weather changing, you really shouldn't have to change the tune much.....once you get the idle, and LSN set,, it's maybe an hour, here or there on the HSN,, the Go's hold a tune very well.

thanks alot. I think I may have had a defective con rod but we shall see in the summer when i break it out again. Just bought a brand new factory team rc8 so

any other ideas from people? im running a 007 pipe

I just started using Odonnel 77T glow plugs this weekend, I used to run P3's but they're kind of expensive, I really liked the ODO77T's and are about 4.99 a piece instead of 9 bucks for a P3, I just hope they last as long but we'll see.

My EBM5 FM ran awesome all weekend..... 8+ min runtimes and all the power I could handle....

TQ and win at the presidents day classic out herrrrr in ewtah

Our team guys at Motorama were doing 9.30 minute pits.

I have a problem. My Go 7 port (2.5 gal old, broken in gently and pre-heated before every run) has been running perfect until recently at the last race when the engine started bogging on the bottom. I hadn't touched the tune because it was running perfectly during practice and the first qualifier. It acted like it was lean bogging. I don't understand what it could be. I put in a new clutch,clutch bearings, replaced the tank and fuel lines and had no improvement. I would rev when not on the ground and at the end of the strait but it was a dog out of the turns and up jumps. Once in a while it would come alive and cause me to wreck. Any suggestions on what the culprit might be. I notice the front bearing had been leaking but it has run fine like that for about a gallon.

Sounds like a clutch problem to me. What springs are you running ?

I tried an experiment at my last meeting with .9 springs on my 7 Port, and it ran exactly as you are describing. I thought I had a fuel blockage. Stripped everything down between races, removed the needles, anything I could think of. Would run sweet on the starter box or if held off the ground, but as soon as I put it down it just bogged something terrible. Had no power out the corners and would slowly wind up to run nicely at the end of the straight, but then bog again as soon as another corner came up. Got worse as the race went on.
I tried to tune it out for two heats, then someone told me to get rid of the .9 springs as he could hear the clutch coming in way too early. I had never run .9 springs before, and didn't realise they would effect the performance so much. Quite surprised me really.
Changed back to my normal 1.1 springs and whamo - enough power to pull the front up on a sticky track and running like a champion. The 7 Ports like to clean out before the clutch takes up, so you need a 1.1 spring to let the engine get some revs up before the clutch comes in.
If you are running strong springs already maybe you have a broken spring ??

I believe you can get away with softer springs ( 1.0 ) on the 3 and maybe the 5 Ports, but it would appear the 7 Ports run better on 1.1's. Certainly on a sticky high traction track anyway. Valuable lesson learned.

I don't think it will be the front bearing. My current 5 Port, plus a previous one as well, both weeped a little around the front bearing with no adverse effect whatsoever. I think it is quite common with the GO factory bearings.

I don't think the 007 would be ideally suited to the 7 Port.
Pipes in order of preference:

2047 with long header (off 0801 or similar). Suit most tracks, awesome performance and good economy.

GO FEMCA 0801. Suit tight shorter tracks. Best fuel economy on 7 Port.

Dynamite 053. Nice all around pipe for the 7 Port. Good economy.

HI everyone. I have one of the new EBMod M5s and I have a few questions about this motor that maybe someone can help. I currently have it installed with the GO 0801 pipe and OS P3 plug.

First, what are the factory carb settings for this motor so I know for future reference?

Second, what is the correct glowplug for this engine in south Florida. High humidity, heat and sealevel?

Finally, how much of an adjustment on the HSN should I make for a carb venturi change from 8mm to 7mm?

Right out of the box the engine fired up with a heat gun, but when I put it on the ground to run it, it seemed really powerful until about 25 mph and then it hit a wall of fuel and wouldn't accelerate anymore. I checked the temps and its at about 220 degree, but if I don't keep it moving it just dies, any suggestions? Thanks for the time and help.

Please never turn your needles in and count the turns out. More damage then good can come from this.

Idle Gap:
Look through the top of carb, now back the idle screw out and lightly with your finger push the throttle arm closed as you turn the screw. Watch the gap close, once you see the radius on the slide match the carb body then stop turning the idle screw. There should be no gap at this setting. From this point it's 1 1/8 turns in on Idle screw.

LSN:
Flush with housing, then 1/2 turn out for baseline.

HSN:
Go flush with housing then 3/4 turn out for baseline settings

What Plug and Fuel you using?

I had similar condition this past Sunday, turned out my clutch bearings sh*t the bed. We were tuning the engine to compensate for the clutch. Luckily I had a brand new clutch setup in my toolbox so after it was swapped we reverted back to my race tune and it was good to go.

Yes my 5 port fr bearing leaked alittle since day 1 but never hurt anything, or took in any air. I have been considering what clutch combo to run on my new D8 and knowing from the power put down in a 10.5 pound truggy last year I need something very tame. I definetly am not using alum shoes and not 1.1's either. I was going to use .9's w/carbon shoes and go to the smallest restrictor to start, I know the D8 isnt the lightest buggy but mine is pretty light. I had between 3-4 oz milled off the chassis and CF towers so I figure its right around the same weight as most others out there now. Since I just heard the issue with the .9's I will try 1.0's instead. From my expierence 1.1's and carbons wear quickly thats why I am trying to stay away from that combo, we shall see. I am also temted to try 1 of them new "UGLY" Trinity pipes on there but the Dynamite is awesome.

Dang.... whats my problem? I know the D8 is alittle short of 125cc, not sure how much. Cant be that much, maybe its my pipe.... what 1 you guys running?

Malik - just use the stock clutch/springs.... trim the shoes like Jesse does it'll be dialed. I tried the alum shoes this weekend and didnt like them. I run a 6.5 restrictor in my EBM5FM

Tony,
Kelby was running the EB 2041, and Matt was running a JP-2. Matt was doing 9's Kelby was doing 9.30.. And they both were driving really hard on the throttle. What kinda temps are you getting?