Right on Brandon & Rex- couldn't agree more I don't know why some people feel the need to dump on a product that they obviously are not familiar with and have little knowledge of. Maybe that's how they get off

I have a mate I race with who bought a $700 motor (brand will remain nameless). This guy is a GOOD driver and a very experianced tuner who has a real chance of winning pretty much everything he enters. This "top" motor flamed out consistantly for an entire season, probably costing him a couple of big wins. All of the guys with Go motors don't seem to have much trouble at all, beyond the normal gremlins that happen to everyone. Sure this top end motor probably made .5 HP more than my humble Go 7 Port, but .5 HP is no good to you if it's on the starter box flamed out for the third time in 20 mins !
A lot of the carb problems were down to incorrect tuning due to a longer LSN which was introduced. Tips on tuning were posted on this forum that have solved all the problems. The motors run sweet as with long or short needles, just got to tune them right.
The Go is not a cheap knock off. There is a large amount of R & D going into new Go products all the time, from teams and development officers world wide. Modified Go's are being raced by team drivers in Asia currently and perform very well. Trust me, the Go engines are not going to fade off the market anytime soon. Phew !! that feels better - got that off my chest. Sometimes I just have a problem with knobs who continuously dribble off at the mouth Shane Adams

Race Report : August 23th and 24th - 2008

Event : 8th Stage of the 2008 Chilean Offroad National Championship

Classes : 1/8th IFMAR Buggy and 1/8th Truggy

Track : XRC Racing Hobby - Chile

Practice Session : During the practices i managed to setup my buggy and truggy very good giving me a good amount of confidence over the race. This is my first race in my country after a couple of years and the hobby has evolved in a good way, so the competition its very fierce with a lot of fast drivers. The track its very technical with just a few spots to do passing moves.

Qualifying and Semifinals : I ended on the slowest group of the event in buggy and truggy, due to the fact that the qualy groups are pre-assigned based on your last stage result, and this was my first event in Chile this year so i ended on the last/slowest group. Being such a technical track with no wide sections, this became a problem due to the slow traffic so i did my best to qualify the best i could. In Buggy, ended the qualification process in 6th position overall, thats mean 3rd place on the B-Semifinal (IFMAR Tree system, same as used in worlds). And in Truggy on 4th place overall. In Buggy, during the semifinals i had some mechanical problems and when i was in 3rd position (only the first 5 go to the finals) i had to call the day, very sad. In truggy i managed to go to finals, starting in 2nd position.

Finals : Truggy class its something new for me, and i was amazed about how good the CEN Truggy goes. My GO .25 engine + EFRA 2047 GO Pipe gave me confidence to race hard on this one, 30 minutes finals. I did a very good start securing 2nd position from the beggining, but after couple mistakes i was in 4th-5th position by mid race. After my 3rd pit pass, i started to climb positions and got secured again in 2nd position. So, great end in 2nd position and very happy with the track and engine combo, only bad part was tyre selection, i think other choice would be better suited for the track, i used Bowties on qualies and wanted to test Losi's ones that went very good on practice, but ended giving me a loose rear end during finals.

Here you have couple pics, and a video that a friend did of my truck (pink one).










Video : http://revver.com/video/1134837/8th-...-championship/




Equipment used in Buggy : GO .21 5 ports 6.5mm restrictor - GO 2047 Pipe - VP PRO 803 Tyres - OS P3 Plug - Power Save Racing Air Filters - VP PRO Wing - VP PRO 3 Shoe Clutch System - Maxy's Fuel 30%

Equipment used in Truggy : GO .25 6 ports 7mm restrictor - GO 2047 Pipe - Proline Bowties on qualies, Losi XTT's on finals - Novarossi C4 plug - VP PRO Airfilters - M2C Racing 4 shoe clutch system - Maxy's Fuel 30%

cya guys !!, hope to do it better next time !!!

Hey - well done man You did the Go boys proud Patricio

ooops, forgot this :

Jeez - lots of expensive motors being beaten there by the humble Go 6 Port. Not bad for a, what was it now ? - "cheap rip off of a Novarossi engine" I think someone said. Yeah right !! DUH

Is there a way to tell if your hobby shop has the version with the older carb? On that note, what shops do you guys recommend buying from?

Last, on the 7 port, what are the pros and cons of the turbo vs. standard head.

Thanks,
Steve

Can't recommend a shop, as I don't live in the States. There are several dealers on this forum, I am sure one of them will contact you soon by PM.

Go the turbo head on the 7 definitely.
Pro's - little more performance throughout the range for sure, and smoother idle.
Con's - Turbo plugs are a little more expensive. But if your already this far into nitro RC a few more dollars is probably the least of your worries
Go with the OS P3 plug. There are others that work good too, but this plug is a proven performer with the Go Turbo's.

Thanks Grizz.
Are you running 25% with the p3 plug?

Thanks again.

Yep. MM 25/7 race fuel with OS P3 plug and the shims it came out of the box with. Runs sweet
If your running the 7 Port try and get your hands on the Go 0801 pipe. It goes VERY GOOD on the 7.

I used Mugen Carbon shoes and 1.1 springs.
I don't know what's wrong with my .21 R engine but it's a &^%$^%$ to tune.
I'm always playing with the needles when others just fire up and go.
I don't know if these are carb problems or engine design problems...the thing is that it's getting very very frustrating when trying to tune this thing.
It's cheap yes; it has plenty of power middle and top end but can't seem to find that bottom end power...maybe i should have gone with the 5 port instead.
It runs fine at the first 5 minutes then bogs on the bottom end.-tune again and the same thing happens after 5-10 minutes.
Richen it more and you loose the power more.
I'm trying the RB off road carb this weekend and will see what happens...i really hope that this will solve the problems and find my peace!!!

I will try running my Go 7 port turbo with 25% nitro fuel instead of 20%.

Can someone tell me, if fuel with 10% oil is O.K.?

thanks,
chipo

If you are loosing power at half tank then you are too lean on top most probably. From you clutch setup it should not be the clutch as with carbon shoes and 1.1mm springs you are having pretty late engagement.

How are you tuning it ? Start it up, run warm (minimum 1/2 tank) and then tune or fiddle right from the box ? I've found out that driving it 1 1/2 tanks makes it sure it's up to temp and that you have what MM calls avg. pressure on the tank. Then tune HSN-LSN-idle. If you need to adjust idle then re-check the LSN. Also this also requires that you have your idlegap set up properly as othervice it will screw up your tune.

The 3p should fire right up after you've primed it. I assume you have pressuretested your GO carb, checked the needle O-rings (they sometimes can be torn especially these brown color ones) as well as made sure your engine is tight, no cracks on case and no bearing problems or worn rod ?
The need for needle turning to get it up and running indicates there is something not right

I too have the 3 P R, not really that impressed, it's the Gen 4 version, coming from a budget OS VG 21 the GO can be at times very frustrating.

In my opinion the 3 P R is the perfect rtr engine, it starts easily, ideals well, gets 7-8mins using standard 8mm restrictor but lacks punch which is what I need. I know a few guys who have run 3PR ,5PT and 7PT they seem to like the 5PT best as it offers great punch and more than enough top end. I should have saved a wee bit longer and purchased a 5PT.These Go engines are extremely tough.

I never had a single problem with my other engines.
I want to believe that i can tune an engine without any problems...but this one is a nightmare.
I finished 35min races with it having bogging problems and finishing at 240-250F.If i richen the LSN any more it looses power down low due to rich settings.
The high speed needle is pretty easy to tune so i don't thing i have it wrong there.
Although i haven't checked my rod and bearings to be honest.

I'm not saying you don't know what you are doing or that you can't tune. It's just that these engines require a bit different approach and you are better off by going the longer route as it pays off eventually.

If you rung good on start and then loose power after half a tank you are lean on HSN not on LSN. If you say fattening LSN makes it worse so this backs up the above assumption. I had this same issue before I figured it out with a help from MM. Strange thing was that you were like 5min off on HSN and started to have the issue. I ended up fattening HSN about 7-10min and leaned LSN about 20min and had also much lower temps after that.

Have you checked the plug color ? It's a good indication where you are going.