Well done Mark, couldnt have happened to a nicer bloke, Props to you.

Hope to see that in person later this summer Mark! (Unless it's passing me and my Losi 8 w/ Go 3 port race..lol)

So the consensus is the 053 is the pipe to use for the 7 port correct?
Has anyone tried the 053s with other headers than the smooth bends they come with? reason I ask is I have a couple of conical headers that i like to use to help mills get to the upper rpms quicker on some tracks.

I have tried the JP-2 with the conical header, medium length, on the 5 port, and it works great. Good smooth bottom, and linear all the way thru. IMO.

The 7 port engine is normally a top end engine, with poor bottom end, the 053 gives it great bottom, and lets the engine wind out for top end, when you go to the 3 or 5 port engines, they already have good botton end, and if you run a short track, the 053 may get by, but in any medium to big track, the 053 just tops out quick and has no more top end power.

I have been practicing with the Go 5port. I agree with ProTwister on the 086 pipe. I think the JP3 will work, but I think the Dynamite 086 will be worth the money.

Yeah, the JP2 I have not tried. It should be close to the 086 as well. I need to try that one.

The JP-2 will not have the bottom the 086 has, it will actually tame the bottom a little if the bottom is to much at times, I would rather use the 086 pipe, and play with gears, different clutch bell, or if truggy, change out the center diff gear. That is if you are running the 5 port.

yeah I agree the Jp-2 on my truggy with the 5 port is way linear. the 086 with the 3r spec is the way to go to in buggy. you wont be disapointed with any of these combinations.

steve

So you are saying the 053 will be too much for the .28 standard?

It all depends on what size track you race on, what gearing and clutch your using, and what type of power you want, and when you need the power.

Got my Go Techs in today! These look like some great motors. Got 2 .21 5-ports available. Will be putting a .21 7-port in my ZX1-R this weekend!

When will we be seeing the 2047 pipe/engine combo being sold in the U.S.,or is it already being sold..I also read that the 5 port/7 port have a little more work done to the engine and also come with more stamping on the head.

I really want to pick one of these up but would perfer to wait untill they reach the U.S.

http://cgi.ebay.com/GO-21-5-2p-Turbo...QQcmdZViewItem


http://cgi.ebay.com/GO-21-7-2p-Turbo...QQcmdZViewItem

check a-main hobbies, im sure they have it

I'm hoping you guys can help me out on this one.

I was at the track on Friday hoping to get to the race today, but with my 5 port behaving the way it is, I didn't want to chance it.

I had it running sweet as a nut, good punch from low and screaming top end with tons of smoke. Only problem is, after 2 laps when I brought it in to check the temps, they were at around the 290F mark. And this with Byron's Gen 2 25% which is supposed to run cooler. Ambient temps were around the 80F mark. Both my needles were some way in at this point.

Any richer on the HSN and she took the whole of the main straight to rev up.

I stripped her down when I got home and took out one of the shims. I also sealed the back plate which had a little seepage on it and sealed the carb neck.

Took her out again today for a bash and to see if these changes had helped. Now she's started doing something she never did before. After a WOT run, the revs take time to die down and it sounds like when your tank is just about to run out and the engine revs up and then settles down to a nice even idle. Just running around at medium throttle and short bursts of WOT, she doesn't do this. I tried adjusting the idle down, but any less than what I have and she won't idle.

I took the head off this afternoon after getting back and the top of the piston is a darkish brown colour and the glow plug indicates to me that she's been running very rich, it's all black.

My temps are still way above the 260F mark and the ambient is about the same.

Where am I going wrong? Any richer and she just won't rev. There's still loads of smoke at WOT. Oh, and there were already two copper shims and a silver shim in the engine, this was after removing the 'break-in shim'. Is this right?