That could be true. But remember, alot of times people mistakenly richen the LSN to negate an idle gap that is to wide. Common mistake. Not that you are doing that but it is not always the case.

That is what I was thinking, as the engine never has a chance to cool down properly on the low side. I think this raises the head temperature slowly above what you see in a 10 minute race and sooner or later you just rev way too high for control when you get off the gas. I am going to seal the engine and then go from there. Two other quick questions though:

1. Do I have to seal everything in that article on the GoTechs? Ie, backplate, carb, carb clamp screw, HSN, etc?

2. If you end up richening up the LSN to get the mix right at the end of the race, do you guys have any issues keeping it running at the very beginning when the engine is cold? Ie do you have to constantly rev it to blow out the extra fuel until you warm up the engine?

What are the best gaskets to use for the go .25 6 port? I have the losi one and they don't have a tight fit. running a jp3 pipe. Thanks guys

Rich and low LSN can cause an erratic idle. Different brands of motors also tune differently. The Go-Tech's seem to favour a fat HSN and a lean LSN.
If the engine is coming to an idle and "machine gunning" - a very fast and high pitched idle that sometimes pulses, then the LSN is too lean. Richen it 1/8 at a time until you get a stable idle. If the engine is coming in and idling normally then after a few seconds the idle suddenly drops dramatically, the LSN is too rich and the engine is loading up. This situation will cause the engine to run continually hotter as the tank level drops and is a cause of a lot of tuning problems when it is combined with an idle gap that is too wide.
Set idle gap at .7mm and tune from there, only adjusting idle once you have tuned both HSN and LSN. See the post I put up on page 81 about 2/3 of the way down. It covers this tuning situation in detail.
Make sure you tune with the engine at operating temp at around half tank, and only make 1 hour adjustments at a time.

You don't want your LSN too rich. You will have no bottom end punch. The engine reving after you come of a jump is typically caused by too wide an idle gap and a rich LSN. Been there and done that

RB

hey guys reading this thread made me want to try this engine, can you give me the websites that sell them, amain have them in back order. is there anyone else that is reliable.

I should have my order in by monday for my motors at holeshothobbies.com Which one you looking for. I have some of them sold already but should be able to get one drop shipped to you if I do not have it.

Hey Guys exciting news !

http://www.buggy-sport.info/include....contentid=9458


cheers M

WoW! Congrats man! Should be good things coming soon. Don't forget your peeps You better give us the inside scoop on all the new goodies

i want a go t-shirt

Congratulations Mark - well done !!! It will be great to have some "Down Under" input into such a great range of engines

Hi guys... I have just ordered a .21 5 port for my buggy and a .28 6 port for my truggy. I bought a JP-3 pipe for each. After reading through this, I see that the Dynamite pipes (086 and 053) are recommended. Is it worthwhile me getting these pipes instead?

the JP3 is very nice on the 5 port great bottom end feel and killer top, it will be alot of motor on the 28 with that pipe. I like the 086 on my 5 ports and .25 6 ports, so use the 086 on both i think, they keep them controllable and smooth with out losing the bottom, both engines have plenty, the 053 will get you in trouble with those engines if your racing IMO. The 053 is the choice pipe for the 7 port.

I have 2 modded 3 port race engines with team mods available.

Dynamite 086 on the 5 Port ROCKS The hard anodised finish pipe is great value for money too when compared to other brands.

Well i finally got my 808 together and I ran it for about 15 minutes I swear if you took a picture of me I would have looked like the cheshire cat.