2LikesGo-Tech Engines Thread
05-06-2008 | 06:53 PM
#2596
It's not too hard once you have a coupe of gallons on the motor, but can be tricky if the wrist pin and con rod top end are still new and tight (hence the tool mentioned), but you shouldn't need that if your motor is run in some.
Take backplate off
Take cooling head and button off
Remove sleeve from crankcase. There are several methods. I find using a plastic tie through the exhaust port then using the piston to gently nudge the sleeve upwards works. Depending how much movement you get you may need to push the sleeve up from underneath by getting a plastic stick, or an ice block stick (nothing metal !!) and pushing on the bottom of the sleeve from through the backplate area.
Once the sleeve is up far enough, prise it out carefully with a screw driver under the lip.
Now the piston is free enough to slide the con rod over to one side and pop the bottom end of the crankshaft. Lift out piston and rod.
Note that the piston skirt is to the rear, and the grooved side of the con rod with the oil gallery holes is to the front of the motor. "Very important these go back in the same way".
Pop the G clip and remove the wrist pin and con rod. Fit your new rod with a bit of afterun oil on the wrist pin, then re-install the G clip.
I like to dunk the internal parts in some fuel before re-assembly to clean of any grit that may have got on them and to lube them up a little.
Put the piston back in to the crankcase and slide the con rod over to one side so you can fit it back onto the crank. You wil need to do this at TDC so you get enough sidways movement in the rod to fit it on.
When you have the rod back on, place the piston at BDC and slide the sleeve back in, carefully fitting the piston back into the bottom of the sleeve as you go.
Reassemble button and cooling head. Then fit backplate with some RTV sealant around the edges for a good airtight seal and your done.
Run a couple of easy, slightly rich tanks through to bed the new rod in then give it heaps
Take backplate off
Take cooling head and button off
Remove sleeve from crankcase. There are several methods. I find using a plastic tie through the exhaust port then using the piston to gently nudge the sleeve upwards works. Depending how much movement you get you may need to push the sleeve up from underneath by getting a plastic stick, or an ice block stick (nothing metal !!) and pushing on the bottom of the sleeve from through the backplate area.
Once the sleeve is up far enough, prise it out carefully with a screw driver under the lip.
Now the piston is free enough to slide the con rod over to one side and pop the bottom end of the crankshaft. Lift out piston and rod.
Note that the piston skirt is to the rear, and the grooved side of the con rod with the oil gallery holes is to the front of the motor. "Very important these go back in the same way".
Pop the G clip and remove the wrist pin and con rod. Fit your new rod with a bit of afterun oil on the wrist pin, then re-install the G clip.
I like to dunk the internal parts in some fuel before re-assembly to clean of any grit that may have got on them and to lube them up a little.
Put the piston back in to the crankcase and slide the con rod over to one side so you can fit it back onto the crank. You wil need to do this at TDC so you get enough sidways movement in the rod to fit it on.
When you have the rod back on, place the piston at BDC and slide the sleeve back in, carefully fitting the piston back into the bottom of the sleeve as you go.
Reassemble button and cooling head. Then fit backplate with some RTV sealant around the edges for a good airtight seal and your done.
Run a couple of easy, slightly rich tanks through to bed the new rod in then give it heaps
05-07-2008 | 09:58 AM
#2598
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 67
re
I love my 7 port GoTech as I won the Amain again this race week with it, however, I am having a very serious problem leaning out at the end of the run. It does not seem to be directly caused by the tank level getting low because the problem persisted even after the final pit stop, although it may be worst when the tank is lower. The last 4-5 minutes of the race I had to brake at every corner and was doing backflips a few times while in mid air off jumps due to the engine not coming back to idle correctly. This problem is nowhere to be found in the first 10-15 minutes in of the race. Can anybody tell me what I need to do to get rid of this issue? Somebody has suggest looking for leaks and sealing the backplate, but I am brand new to nitro racing and am not sure what needs to be done. Also if you need to do this why is it not sealed correctly from the factory? Is this just a design characteristic of the GoTechs and I need to literally run the motor that long and then adjust the low end idle better when the problem occurs? Problem is that the heats are only 5 minutes, so you never get to simulate this until the main. Any help appreciated!!!
05-07-2008 | 10:23 AM
#2599
cherokee i had a similar problem with mine but it was the carb leaking just a bit and the high and low needles where turning with car running also what are the temps when run a main and WON oh and congrats on win thnx will g
05-07-2008 | 10:35 AM
#2600
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 67
re
I only added the winning comment to let others know how good these motors are. I have yet to get beat on HP alone and my 7 port .21 w/053 pipe pulls almost every .28 at the track, including high dollar modded motors, down the straight away.
My engine did get hot at the end of the main. It was around 255 deg. F at the end of the run. It normally runs around 230 deg. or below, which it did in the 5 minute qualifiers. It was definitely lean cycling down off the HSN, which made it a bi_ch to drive. I don't think the neddles are turning as it seems fine for 10 minute runs. I am using Byrons Gen 2 30% fuel, which I love, and an OS P7 turbo plug (It was around 75 degrees and very sunny on Sunday). Again I have no prior nitro experience except with Helicopters and planes so I really don't know what I am doing with the engine, but I am an old ex sponsored electric on road guy so I have some good technical ability. I did notice a bit of dirt buildup around the back plate screws, which may have adherered to some oil leaking out, so I tighted the plate screws up a bit. They probably turned another 1/8 turn until I thought they were really snug. How do I pressure or leak test or should I just seal certain areas?
Thanks
My engine did get hot at the end of the main. It was around 255 deg. F at the end of the run. It normally runs around 230 deg. or below, which it did in the 5 minute qualifiers. It was definitely lean cycling down off the HSN, which made it a bi_ch to drive. I don't think the neddles are turning as it seems fine for 10 minute runs. I am using Byrons Gen 2 30% fuel, which I love, and an OS P7 turbo plug (It was around 75 degrees and very sunny on Sunday). Again I have no prior nitro experience except with Helicopters and planes so I really don't know what I am doing with the engine, but I am an old ex sponsored electric on road guy so I have some good technical ability. I did notice a bit of dirt buildup around the back plate screws, which may have adherered to some oil leaking out, so I tighted the plate screws up a bit. They probably turned another 1/8 turn until I thought they were really snug. How do I pressure or leak test or should I just seal certain areas?
Thanks
05-07-2008 | 10:59 AM
#2601
Someone please help me!! I desperatly need a Piston/Sleeve for a 5 port ASAP! I thought I needed a rod but now I see that the casing holding the wrist pin in has broke. If anyone has one or knows where I can get one please let me know. I will pay overnite if I have to. HELP!!!
05-07-2008 | 11:27 AM
#2602
I only added the winning comment to let others know how good these motors are. I have yet to get beat on HP alone and my 7 port .21 w/053 pipe pulls almost every .28 at the track, including high dollar modded motors, down the straight away.
My engine did get hot at the end of the main. It was around 255 deg. F at the end of the run. It normally runs around 230 deg. or below, which it did in the 5 minute qualifiers. It was definitely lean cycling down off the HSN, which made it a bi_ch to drive. I don't think the neddles are turning as it seems fine for 10 minute runs. I am using Byrons Gen 2 30% fuel, which I love, and an OS P7 turbo plug (It was around 75 degrees and very sunny on Sunday). Again I have no prior nitro experience except with Helicopters and planes so I really don't know what I am doing with the engine, but I am an old ex sponsored electric on road guy so I have some good technical ability. I did notice a bit of dirt buildup around the back plate screws, which may have adherered to some oil leaking out, so I tighted the plate screws up a bit. They probably turned another 1/8 turn until I thought they were really snug. How do I pressure or leak test or should I just seal certain areas?
Thanks
My engine did get hot at the end of the main. It was around 255 deg. F at the end of the run. It normally runs around 230 deg. or below, which it did in the 5 minute qualifiers. It was definitely lean cycling down off the HSN, which made it a bi_ch to drive. I don't think the neddles are turning as it seems fine for 10 minute runs. I am using Byrons Gen 2 30% fuel, which I love, and an OS P7 turbo plug (It was around 75 degrees and very sunny on Sunday). Again I have no prior nitro experience except with Helicopters and planes so I really don't know what I am doing with the engine, but I am an old ex sponsored electric on road guy so I have some good technical ability. I did notice a bit of dirt buildup around the back plate screws, which may have adherered to some oil leaking out, so I tighted the plate screws up a bit. They probably turned another 1/8 turn until I thought they were really snug. How do I pressure or leak test or should I just seal certain areas?
Thanks
05-07-2008 | 11:41 AM
#2603
Found what I need guys! Want to say thanks to www.rccompound.com for the hook up. I will have it tomorrow!
Also they just happen to have EB Modded P/S/R combos for a sweet price
Also they just happen to have EB Modded P/S/R combos for a sweet price
05-07-2008 | 05:52 PM
#2604
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 67
re
Assuming it is an air leak somewhere, how do I seal the carburator? Just pull it off and smear the RTV silicone on the side and put it back in? What about the backplate? Just a bit more detail please.
It seems from your temperatur range that I did not get too hot, but if I seal everything and the issue still continues, what should I be richening up, the low or high end? I am thinking the low end since it won't come back directly to a low idle, is this correct?
It seems from your temperatur range that I did not get too hot, but if I seal everything and the issue still continues, what should I be richening up, the low or high end? I am thinking the low end since it won't come back directly to a low idle, is this correct?
05-07-2008 | 06:45 PM
#2605
i have been reading some suggestion & COMMENTS about this go 3R,the recommended pipe is 2047 i checked a main & its really surpise me on the price ,my question is what other pipe will match the 3R ,CAUSE RIGHT NOW i got the ttr2035 & 053,i will be running on a new layout,its a bigger track this time , i would say its technical of course w/140ft straight ............honestly i'm excited on the new track ........so i decide to get this GO 3R , some peeps saying it has (smooth powerband)like vspec
05-07-2008 | 10:35 PM
#2606
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Assuming it is an air leak somewhere, how do I seal the carburator? Just pull it off and smear the RTV silicone on the side and put it back in? What about the backplate? Just a bit more detail please.
It seems from your temperatur range that I did not get too hot, but if I seal everything and the issue still continues, what should I be richening up, the low or high end? I am thinking the low end since it won't come back directly to a low idle, is this correct?
It seems from your temperatur range that I did not get too hot, but if I seal everything and the issue still continues, what should I be richening up, the low or high end? I am thinking the low end since it won't come back directly to a low idle, is this correct?
Check out this detailed article on sealing your engine from a few posts back. It will answer all your questions. Just click on the link, then scroll down about half a page and you will see the begining of the article.
http://www.savage-central.com/module...asc&highlight=
05-08-2008 | 09:30 AM
#2609
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,608
From: Omaha,NE
Assuming it is an air leak somewhere, how do I seal the carburator? Just pull it off and smear the RTV silicone on the side and put it back in? What about the backplate? Just a bit more detail please.
It seems from your temperatur range that I did not get too hot, but if I seal everything and the issue still continues, what should I be richening up, the low or high end? I am thinking the low end since it won't come back directly to a low idle, is this correct?
It seems from your temperatur range that I did not get too hot, but if I seal everything and the issue still continues, what should I be richening up, the low or high end? I am thinking the low end since it won't come back directly to a low idle, is this correct?
05-08-2008 | 09:45 AM
#2610
I have always found it is the opposite. If you go off a jump and stuff and the rpms stay too high and do not come back down I richen the low speed up and it fixes the problem. IMO the low speed is too lean if you do not have a air leak. I have had 3 motors I got from a friend do this too me and the all 3 the low speed was too lean.