Guys there are 3 different threads on this forum on Go engines and i'm getting !!!!!

I was a bit confused on what shims come with each engine and which you should use with each % nitro fuel.

I'm receiving my 3 port race on Saturday and i want to know what comes with the motor as standard like shims and what carb is in it?
Does it come with a plug?
For what nitro % is it set at...i'm running 25% tornado.

I also want to ask you about breaking in this engines.
The tornado fuel has 9% oil in it (7%synth+2% castor), should i use a different fuel with more oil since the pinch is too high?
As for break in procedure i warm the engine up with a hair tryer, cover the engine with al. foil and as soon as it fires up i run them on the ground no more than 50% bursts and as rich as i can to maintain 210F driving slowly in 8s. I do this for 5 minutes and then cool the engine down then again the same thing for a total of 5 tanks. Then i remove some foil and try to increase the time i go half throttle and increase the speed of the car a bit. At the 10th tank i remove the foil completely and run the car rich for the rest of the gallon not tuning for power.

Let me know!!

Wow - that explains something that puzzled me about my own engine. It was one of the first versions of the 5 port (with the standard button). When I added the turbo button I found that it had three shims. I checked the deck height and it was too high so I removed one to get it right. I didn't remember if I added that third shim at some point or not. I just assumed that I had. Now it all makes sense. The turbo button (being newer) was just a little thicker than original standard button.

Cool - thanks for answering a question I never asked Russ.

My PTM modded gotech 5R came with 2 shims installed , a 2mm and a 1mm, for a total of 3,I added a turbo button, removed the 1mm shim and added a 2, for a total of 4, was this correct?
Not sure how to check deck height,when adding the turbo button, 1st ran it with original shimming, but it had issues idling, had to keep it reved up a bit to keep it running. The added shim has cured the idle problem, but it seems to not have the power it did with original shimming. I'm going on 4 gallons now, changed to turbo button at 2.5 gallons, any help would be appreciated.

my econo 3 port came with 2 shims installed and none in the box.

Guys,

On the Jammin line of pipes, which go better with the GO 3, 5 and 7 ports ?

thanks,

either the jp3 or 4 are the best IMO.. the GO 2047 is better

Tabushi I have heard the Jp3 is probably the best jammin pipe on the Go engines but it does not perform as well as a 086 or 2047.

Free2day, the sport engines do not include the extra shim because they don't have as muchpinch as the race engines so its not necessary.

Pooldoc, After 4 gallons it probably wouldn't hurt to remove the .1mm shim but remember its faster and more consistant to have a engine that is a little slower and easier to tune then one that is faster and a little more finicky.

Vti-Chris The 3port race engines will all be new batch engines and will inlcude a 3 shims with a total of .4mm shim width, I was told by the factory that the pinch is not as tight on these engines so if there is a shim in the box it shouldn't be necessary. It shouldn't come with plugs because Go doesn't make a turbo plug. It is set for 30% nitro. You break in procedure sounds fine but I would leave the head wrapped in foil until your completely thru the process. Since your fuel has a low oil content it would be best to keep the engine on the rich side for the entire process.

yup, I was just commenting on what mine came with

Russell, sent an e-mail to you about the 2008 Minnesota Nitro Series. If you could please let me know either way.

Thanks,
Casey

Assuming your talking about the .21 Go line. I tested a Jp-3 with ProTwister Mods on the Go 7 port it ran good. I don't think it let's it reach it's full potential like the 053 or Go 2047 does.

Hope this helps.

Where can you buy a 3P Race? What's the difference between that and the 5P Turbo? It seems Go is having trouble with supplying the new engines, I have been waiting for a 5P turbo and Amain is in back order.

Russell, if you have these here locally, I would like to purchase one.

Thanks,
Tom

Ok, im a little bit confused now too about deckheight. From what i understand i had the " second " batch of engines, because my engine only came with 2 shims, so, i recently bought a turbo button head, what shims and how many should i use ?

Ohh, its for the .21 5P

I think those who bought the early batches of engines should buy themselves a caliper for this.

Going on what Russell posted earlier, it seems to me that you simply run the shims that come with your motor. If that's what the factory supplied, then that's what the batch, model etc of the motor you have requires. The break in shims come seperately in a sealed plastic bag with a protective cardboard sleeve to be used if required. All other shims are factory pre installed under the head button. From what I am told the turbo button is no different than the standard button as far as shims go. Just change the buttons over, put the original shims back in and go hard. Maybe I am missing somthing here (if so, please excuse my ignorance ), but I can't see a problem.

My LHS has just been informed from the distributor that the 3 prt race engine is out of stock.
I have to wait for another month or so until the next order!