Mugen MTX-4
01-10-2006 | 05:49 AM
#3034
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,063
From: www.RCunderground.net
here is my mugen with mono option parts.
i like the bling, but i hate the fact you have to glue the nuts provided on the mid bearing block and the chassis brace. the titanium screws are great. i have stick two rear shock towers with ca. it is very thick, and strong.
i have found the MTX4 a very tight car to work on. there is minimal room between all parts and this makes the car very tricky to work on. for example:
-my sirio evo 3 has a large fat type carb ball end, i had to change this around and put my JP ballend on it.
-the engine mounts are hard to reachie impossible. to take of the engine you have to loosen the belt tensioner and in some cases take the pipe out to get to these screws!
-to remove my top deck, i have to take of my engine heatsink! i have the titanium screws which are softer, and subsequently don;t like ball end drivers. i also either have to unscrew the handle on one side or push it forward to get to the screw closest to the servo.
has anyone tryed placing some electrics on the pipe side? ie a Personal transponder, or a capacitor for a spectrum? (the space left between the pipe and the tank is a good 4 CM's and there is easy 2cm betwen the tank and the edge of the chassis.
i like the bling, but i hate the fact you have to glue the nuts provided on the mid bearing block and the chassis brace. the titanium screws are great. i have stick two rear shock towers with ca. it is very thick, and strong.
i have found the MTX4 a very tight car to work on. there is minimal room between all parts and this makes the car very tricky to work on. for example:
-my sirio evo 3 has a large fat type carb ball end, i had to change this around and put my JP ballend on it.
-the engine mounts are hard to reachie impossible. to take of the engine you have to loosen the belt tensioner and in some cases take the pipe out to get to these screws!
-to remove my top deck, i have to take of my engine heatsink! i have the titanium screws which are softer, and subsequently don;t like ball end drivers. i also either have to unscrew the handle on one side or push it forward to get to the screw closest to the servo.
has anyone tryed placing some electrics on the pipe side? ie a Personal transponder, or a capacitor for a spectrum? (the space left between the pipe and the tank is a good 4 CM's and there is easy 2cm betwen the tank and the edge of the chassis.
01-10-2006 | 09:28 AM
#3035
Tech Champion
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,792
Originally Posted by VenomWorldOrder
here is my mugen with mono option parts.
i like the bling, but i hate the fact you have to glue the nuts provided on the mid bearing block and the chassis brace. the titanium screws are great. i have stick two rear shock towers with ca. it is very thick, and strong.
has anyone tryed placing some electrics on the pipe side? ie a Personal transponder, or a capacitor for a spectrum? (the space left between the pipe and the tank is a good 4 CM's and there is easy 2cm betwen the tank and the edge of the chassis.
i like the bling, but i hate the fact you have to glue the nuts provided on the mid bearing block and the chassis brace. the titanium screws are great. i have stick two rear shock towers with ca. it is very thick, and strong.
has anyone tryed placing some electrics on the pipe side? ie a Personal transponder, or a capacitor for a spectrum? (the space left between the pipe and the tank is a good 4 CM's and there is easy 2cm betwen the tank and the edge of the chassis.
double rear shock tower, bling-bling everywhere...... wow, good job !!!How is the final weight ?
01-10-2006 | 10:01 AM
#3037
Originally Posted by VenomWorldOrder
here is my mugen with mono option parts.
i like the bling, but i hate the fact you have to glue the nuts provided on the mid bearing block and the chassis brace. the titanium screws are great. i have stick two rear shock towers with ca. it is very thick, and strong.
i have found the MTX4 a very tight car to work on. there is minimal room between all parts and this makes the car very tricky to work on. for example:
-my sirio evo 3 has a large fat type carb ball end, i had to change this around and put my JP ballend on it.
-the engine mounts are hard to reachie impossible. to take of the engine you have to loosen the belt tensioner and in some cases take the pipe out to get to these screws!
-to remove my top deck, i have to take of my engine heatsink! i have the titanium screws which are softer, and subsequently don;t like ball end drivers. i also either have to unscrew the handle on one side or push it forward to get to the screw closest to the servo.
has anyone tryed placing some electrics on the pipe side? ie a Personal transponder, or a capacitor for a spectrum? (the space left between the pipe and the tank is a good 4 CM's and there is easy 2cm betwen the tank and the edge of the chassis.
i like the bling, but i hate the fact you have to glue the nuts provided on the mid bearing block and the chassis brace. the titanium screws are great. i have stick two rear shock towers with ca. it is very thick, and strong.
i have found the MTX4 a very tight car to work on. there is minimal room between all parts and this makes the car very tricky to work on. for example:
-my sirio evo 3 has a large fat type carb ball end, i had to change this around and put my JP ballend on it.
-the engine mounts are hard to reachie impossible. to take of the engine you have to loosen the belt tensioner and in some cases take the pipe out to get to these screws!
-to remove my top deck, i have to take of my engine heatsink! i have the titanium screws which are softer, and subsequently don;t like ball end drivers. i also either have to unscrew the handle on one side or push it forward to get to the screw closest to the servo.
has anyone tryed placing some electrics on the pipe side? ie a Personal transponder, or a capacitor for a spectrum? (the space left between the pipe and the tank is a good 4 CM's and there is easy 2cm betwen the tank and the edge of the chassis.
01-10-2006 | 01:32 PM
#3039
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 115
From: Austin,TX
When I get a chance I will post pictures of my MTX-4 with some of the mono option parts. I wanted to race the car some before adding this stuff just to see if I could tell the difference in weight and weight-transfer characteristics.
01-10-2006 | 07:59 PM
#3040
hello, has anyone tried the 3-racing rear shock tower ?can anyone tell me how thick is it? i know the front is 3mm according to their website but did not mention about rear. i feel rear shock tower is rather weak , even though nothing has happen yet 
but it's nice to have a extra just in case, just something preventative..
but it's nice to have a extra just in case, just something preventative..
01-10-2006 | 08:04 PM
#3041
wow that rear shock tower looks beefy i ve thought about doing it but at the same time i dont want to upset the shock angle too much, 5mm seems a little overkill, how's the fit ? did you add the spacers ?
i ve thought about doing it but at the same time i dont want to upset the shock angle too much, 5mm seems a little overkill, how's the fit ? did you add the spacers ?
Originally Posted by VenomWorldOrder
here is my mugen with mono option parts.
i like the bling, but i hate the fact you have to glue the nuts provided on the mid bearing block and the chassis brace. the titanium screws are great. i have stick two rear shock towers with ca. it is very thick, and strong.
i have found the MTX4 a very tight car to work on. there is minimal room between all parts and this makes the car very tricky to work on. for example:
-my sirio evo 3 has a large fat type carb ball end, i had to change this around and put my JP ballend on it.
-the engine mounts are hard to reachie impossible. to take of the engine you have to loosen the belt tensioner and in some cases take the pipe out to get to these screws!
-to remove my top deck, i have to take of my engine heatsink! i have the titanium screws which are softer, and subsequently don;t like ball end drivers. i also either have to unscrew the handle on one side or push it forward to get to the screw closest to the servo.
has anyone tryed placing some electrics on the pipe side? ie a Personal transponder, or a capacitor for a spectrum? (the space left between the pipe and the tank is a good 4 CM's and there is easy 2cm betwen the tank and the edge of the chassis.
i like the bling, but i hate the fact you have to glue the nuts provided on the mid bearing block and the chassis brace. the titanium screws are great. i have stick two rear shock towers with ca. it is very thick, and strong.
i have found the MTX4 a very tight car to work on. there is minimal room between all parts and this makes the car very tricky to work on. for example:
-my sirio evo 3 has a large fat type carb ball end, i had to change this around and put my JP ballend on it.
-the engine mounts are hard to reachie impossible. to take of the engine you have to loosen the belt tensioner and in some cases take the pipe out to get to these screws!
-to remove my top deck, i have to take of my engine heatsink! i have the titanium screws which are softer, and subsequently don;t like ball end drivers. i also either have to unscrew the handle on one side or push it forward to get to the screw closest to the servo.
has anyone tryed placing some electrics on the pipe side? ie a Personal transponder, or a capacitor for a spectrum? (the space left between the pipe and the tank is a good 4 CM's and there is easy 2cm betwen the tank and the edge of the chassis.
01-10-2006 | 09:55 PM
#3043
Tech Champion
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 6,398
From: KL
it is obviously no more fun when i stick 2 pieces stock rear shock tower.. 
thats maybe 1 of the reason i cant really performs at last weekend club race,but manage to cater driving it to 3rd placing A..
better try to put back to stock that was doing very well for my TQued and Champs the A..
i feels like the car is understeering,but actually when i stick 2pcs,it becomes stiffer and may cause bad rear traction/drifts..
thats maybe 1 of the reason i cant really performs at last weekend club race,but manage to cater driving it to 3rd placing A..
better try to put back to stock that was doing very well for my TQued and Champs the A..
i feels like the car is understeering,but actually when i stick 2pcs,it becomes stiffer and may cause bad rear traction/drifts..
01-10-2006 | 11:01 PM
#3044
Tech Champion
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,792
Originally Posted by Corse-R
And found many things have changed from the MTX-3 to the 4... Ones for good and others for bad.
Rear bulkheads on the 3 were their weak point (how many got a DNF after a rough take-off and the two nipples where the rear shock tower was attached went berserk). Now are much massive.
Brake rotor is almost a joke... Ditched (as I did with all the other Mugen cars I've assembled) and installed one, sorry, no digicam now but... you can see some pics of it there (posted by Manticore some time ago - sent it one rotor):
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=11853
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=11854
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=11855
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=11856
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=11857
This rotor came 3 years ago on my MTX-3 and on the MRX-3 and still work great on all two cars. Anything capable of stopping 2800grams of car without breaking a sweat, not warping and not collecting dirt on their surface is great. Will be installed on all mine '4' cars too.
Pics in few days, when camera returns from Tech service.
Put some blue brake pads (my kit come with the black and the blue ones - those last are for the MBX-5). Normally I've found the black ones too grippy and made the brake too delicate for being used. I'll need to test them.... anyone did it?
Car is very light (at least, mine seems to be). So not much lightweight parts seems to be needed. I'm planning to order only the Ti screws for the upper side (Front CVD's are installed - had a spare pair from my '3').
Rear bulkheads on the 3 were their weak point (how many got a DNF after a rough take-off and the two nipples where the rear shock tower was attached went berserk). Now are much massive.
Brake rotor is almost a joke... Ditched (as I did with all the other Mugen cars I've assembled) and installed one, sorry, no digicam now but... you can see some pics of it there (posted by Manticore some time ago - sent it one rotor):
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=11853
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=11854
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=11855
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=11856
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=11857
This rotor came 3 years ago on my MTX-3 and on the MRX-3 and still work great on all two cars. Anything capable of stopping 2800grams of car without breaking a sweat, not warping and not collecting dirt on their surface is great. Will be installed on all mine '4' cars too.
Pics in few days, when camera returns from Tech service.
Put some blue brake pads (my kit come with the black and the blue ones - those last are for the MBX-5). Normally I've found the black ones too grippy and made the brake too delicate for being used. I'll need to test them.... anyone did it?
Car is very light (at least, mine seems to be). So not much lightweight parts seems to be needed. I'm planning to order only the Ti screws for the upper side (Front CVD's are installed - had a spare pair from my '3').
I also add springs between the brake pads.
Look beefy now
01-10-2006 | 11:28 PM
#3045
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
it is obviously no more fun when i stick 2 pieces stock rear shock tower..
thats maybe 1 of the reason i cant really performs at last weekend club race,but manage to cater driving it to 3rd placing A..
better try to put back to stock that was doing very well for my TQued and Champs the A..
i feels like the car is understeering,but actually when i stick 2pcs,it becomes stiffer and may cause bad rear traction/drifts..
thats maybe 1 of the reason i cant really performs at last weekend club race,but manage to cater driving it to 3rd placing A..
better try to put back to stock that was doing very well for my TQued and Champs the A..
i feels like the car is understeering,but actually when i stick 2pcs,it becomes stiffer and may cause bad rear traction/drifts..