Steering is Airtronics 94360
I would suggest a KO digital though. I think my servo is developing centering problems.

Throttle is Airtronics 94737
I think this is the best servo out there for throttle. You don't need tremendous power or speed for a throttle servo. It's accurate and has a perfect balance of torque and speed. I have one that I bought 3 years ago when I started the hobby and I've used it in everyone of my cars including my current car.

I ran the MTX4 again yesterday. I tried different things and the car is getting better, and better. The biggest improvement I made was to take those stupid o rings out of the front outdrives, they were binding at full lock. Narrowed front end slightly. I also added more camber to the rear which helped a lot. Did some other minor things and the car is good. Thanks for all the tips.

If I get a specktrum, do I have to use digital servos ?

no not necessarily. it will work with both analog and digital servos or combined.

I love the car and how it handles but I kept on striping out the 2nd gear. I do not know what to do. I notice that the swaybar sort of touches the 2-speed housing. It happens about 2 minutes into a race. I'm not using the engine-brace so could it be flexing?

Ahhh! you should of told me that yesturday william hahaha yes that is the whole reason why your car is stripping the second gear.

Cody

Well after reading the past post, my problem might be the clutchbell touching the 2peed housing because theres a ring on it from something rubbing it. Also, I guess I could smooth out the shifting of first to second gear because rightnow it has a hard snap to it. I like that feeling but if its going to create a situation with the 2nd gear, I could do without it. I ran the car yesterday and I was amazed at how hard I could push it and how good the setting stayed after a race. With the TC3, everything would change after 20 min.

I know. I thought it was the sway-bar doing it. What happen to you? Did you end up breaking?

Thanks Jo

That little block that goes into the diff to make it a solid axle stripped out.

Thanks Jo !!

Cody, next time, if you need one, just let me know. If I would have known yesterday, you could have been racing. Its just that plastic block right? Well next time.

How you stripped a solid plastic piece that goes solidly attached to the outdrives??? Maybe some gorilla tried to twist each wheel on the axle in different directions?

Put the engine brace back on. Why would you not use this?

As Scott told you, why you would run your car without the engine brace? Basically flex and distortion on the place where the engine and gears come is the worst thing you can desire for the correct handling & gearbox healt of your car.

If you need to generate more grip, you can do it via other ways, never making the car flexes on that vital point. A flexible chassis makes the car easier to drive it but is not the way where you need to generate more grip.

If you need more snap on the shifting to the second gear, you can do it via other ways, a too tight 2nd gear clucht makes the shifting too late. Probably you can get better results changing the 2nd gear and assuring the surface where the shoes ride is free of dirt, debriss and sanding a little to make it rougher (sand a little the surface of the shoes too, just to asure that none glaze is over the shoe where it contacts with the bell).