Mugen MTX-4
10-19-2005 | 11:35 AM
#1426
i have not seen a post (or might have missed it) about the battery....
what battery pack do you guys use? what's the best brand out there with the biggest capacity (i only had a 900mah sanyo for my mtx-3)? finally, where do you buy them?
what battery pack do you guys use? what's the best brand out there with the biggest capacity (i only had a 900mah sanyo for my mtx-3)? finally, where do you buy them?
10-19-2005 | 11:57 AM
#1427
Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
i have not seen a post (or might have missed it) about the battery....
what battery pack do you guys use? what's the best brand out there with the biggest capacity (i only had a 900mah sanyo for my mtx-3)? finally, where do you buy them?
what battery pack do you guys use? what's the best brand out there with the biggest capacity (i only had a 900mah sanyo for my mtx-3)? finally, where do you buy them?
Try www.maxamps.com for loose cells. They are a forum sponsor too.
Dom
he takes so long with these things 
10-19-2005 | 02:16 PM
#1429
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Looks like it's just side by side pack we use in 1/8th scale. If that's the case, IB makes 1200mah.
Try www.maxamps.com for loose cells. They are a forum sponsor too.
Dom
Try www.maxamps.com for loose cells. They are a forum sponsor too.
Dom
what cells are they??
10-19-2005 | 02:27 PM
#1430
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 206
From: S.CA
Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
what cells are they??
http://www.skylinercracing.com/store/P_20.htm
i'm not into building my own battery packs.. too lazy for those 
10-19-2005 | 03:52 PM
#1434
With some help from my friend Jason over to BMI, I now have 2 extra rear shock/body mounts in 3mm, a little more than the stock 2.5mm. I should have my front shock towers tomorow. Also, the Titanium front sway bar mounts are almost ready too. We've decided that the dog bones for the rear is ok the way that it is because of the fit.
I have found that the stock bumber that has the 2 locking nuts that sit down in it, seems to not be as strong as the mtx3. When trying to losten it up, they just spin round and round. A touch of superglue fixed the spinning problem and the screws backed right out. So far, the list of upgrades for the one I'm building is:
Titanium Hex
Vented disc break
Blue break pads
CVD's
3mm Shock towers
Titanium Pivot balls
Titanium Screws
Prospec springs
Kawahara 1st and 2nd speed gear housings
Lightwieght 2 speed shaft
more to come.......
I have found that the stock bumber that has the 2 locking nuts that sit down in it, seems to not be as strong as the mtx3. When trying to losten it up, they just spin round and round. A touch of superglue fixed the spinning problem and the screws backed right out. So far, the list of upgrades for the one I'm building is:
Titanium Hex
Vented disc break
Blue break pads
CVD's
3mm Shock towers
Titanium Pivot balls
Titanium Screws
Prospec springs
Kawahara 1st and 2nd speed gear housings
Lightwieght 2 speed shaft
more to come.......
10-19-2005 | 06:13 PM
#1435
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
With some help from my friend Jason over to BMI, I now have 2 extra rear shock/body mounts in 3mm, a little more than the stock 2.5mm. I should have my front shock towers tomorow. Also, the Titanium front sway bar mounts are almost ready too. We've decided that the dog bones for the rear is ok the way that it is because of the fit.
I have found that the stock bumber that has the 2 locking nuts that sit down in it, seems to not be as strong as the mtx3. When trying to losten it up, they just spin round and round. A touch of superglue fixed the spinning problem and the screws backed right out. So far, the list of upgrades for the one I'm building is:
Titanium Hex
Vented disc break
Blue break pads
CVD's
3mm Shock towers
Titanium Pivot balls
Titanium Screws
Prospec springs
Kawahara 1st and 2nd speed gear housings
Lightwieght 2 speed shaft
more to come.......
I have found that the stock bumber that has the 2 locking nuts that sit down in it, seems to not be as strong as the mtx3. When trying to losten it up, they just spin round and round. A touch of superglue fixed the spinning problem and the screws backed right out. So far, the list of upgrades for the one I'm building is:
Titanium Hex
Vented disc break
Blue break pads
CVD's
3mm Shock towers
Titanium Pivot balls
Titanium Screws
Prospec springs
Kawahara 1st and 2nd speed gear housings
Lightwieght 2 speed shaft
more to come.......
10-19-2005 | 07:46 PM
#1436
Tech Regular
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 265
Art's MTX-4 tips
http://www.rollcenterproducts.com/Art2.html
Here is Art's first tip. We'll try to publish one each day. (depending on Wilma) Our plans were to run the car in Kissimmee this weekend but that's not looking likely. We'll probably run it for the first time at the Fl. State Race the following weekend.
-Joaquin
Here is Art's first tip. We'll try to publish one each day. (depending on Wilma) Our plans were to run the car in Kissimmee this weekend but that's not looking likely. We'll probably run it for the first time at the Fl. State Race the following weekend.
-Joaquin
10-19-2005 | 10:21 PM
#1437
Tech Champion
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,792
Warning !! The front bulkheads mtx4 sux !! you need to file the bottom corner so it match the curve of main chassis. Becarefull, you might end up with stripped bulkheads if you force to screw without filing the bottom curve.
The rest are fine. I really love the hexagonal ball connector, nice stuffs.
I use Ti steering knuckle lollipop, Ti turnbuckles, universals dogbones, hexagonal wheel adapter from mtx3 prospec.
I suggest longer countersink screws 3x10mm or 3x12mm for mounting F&R bulkheads, radio plate tower, front & middle belts bulkhead, steering servo mounting, shock tower plate for maximum strength. Basically I use longer screws ( by another 2mm longer ) for everything that are fit.
Okey guys ? I will give some photos later
The rest are fine. I really love the hexagonal ball connector, nice stuffs.
I use Ti steering knuckle lollipop, Ti turnbuckles, universals dogbones, hexagonal wheel adapter from mtx3 prospec.
I suggest longer countersink screws 3x10mm or 3x12mm for mounting F&R bulkheads, radio plate tower, front & middle belts bulkhead, steering servo mounting, shock tower plate for maximum strength. Basically I use longer screws ( by another 2mm longer ) for everything that are fit.
Okey guys ? I will give some photos later
10-19-2005 | 11:21 PM
#1439
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,166
From: Henderson, NV
Originally Posted by asw7576
Warning !! The front bulkheads mtx4 sux !! you need to file the bottom corner so it match the curve of main chassis. Becarefull, you might end up with stripped bulkheads if you force to screw without filing the bottom curve.
The rest are fine. I really love the hexagonal ball connector, nice stuffs.
I use Ti steering knuckle lollipop, Ti turnbuckles, universals dogbones, hexagonal wheel adapter from mtx3 prospec.
I suggest longer countersink screws 3x10mm or 3x12mm for mounting F&R bulkheads, radio plate tower, front & middle belts bulkhead, steering servo mounting, shock tower plate for maximum strength. Basically I use longer screws ( by another 2mm longer ) for everything that are fit.
Okey guys ? I will give some photos later
The rest are fine. I really love the hexagonal ball connector, nice stuffs.
I use Ti steering knuckle lollipop, Ti turnbuckles, universals dogbones, hexagonal wheel adapter from mtx3 prospec.
I suggest longer countersink screws 3x10mm or 3x12mm for mounting F&R bulkheads, radio plate tower, front & middle belts bulkhead, steering servo mounting, shock tower plate for maximum strength. Basically I use longer screws ( by another 2mm longer ) for everything that are fit.
Okey guys ? I will give some photos later
