Mustang GT4 with the wing of course......

Only one local guy was saucing and he kept saying "I hate saucing" then proceeded to have a car on rails.....lol. So sauce is on the way, but I want the sauce to be the cherry on top not a band aid for a crap setup if I can avoid it.

Anyone have a read on what viscosity the Tamiya stock oil is? Just curious what I have in the back still.....

I've gone ahead and used mostly steel cap head screws that I had on hand, with the button heads from the RC Screwz kit in the few places where there wasn't clearance for a cap head.

I ordered a high tensile screw kit from these guys for another car. The screws were high quality hard steel not the soft junk.

https://rc-schrauben.de/index.php?jt...=tt-02&search=

Thanks. My build is complete aside from tires so it's late for me, hopefully this helps someone else.

Biggest thing that helped me was switching to cap head screws wherever possible (almost all of the M3x10 can be replaced with M3x8 cap head - or 10mm if you are brave). The larger socket of a cap head is an amazing difference, and they are just easier to handle in general. In the unlikely event you stripped a cap head, pliers might be able to get it out still.

The MIP tools are quite nice. Not sure they are any harder steel than the Wera tools I had already, but the beefy screwdriver handles are nice. Luckily one of my precision screwdriver sets had a bit for the JIS screws, which I agree is completely mandatory - Phillips will not fit that.

On a related note (ordering parts from Germany), I ordered light buckets from tamico.de. Look to be good quality, 3d printed, all lights in the tail clusters modeled. Should make my A4 Quattro body pop. Tamiya has backed off including nice light buckets which is a real shame - all the ones with plastic/chrome light buckets that I know of are TT-01. Lexan light buckets do not cut it. I would've gotten a McLaren Senna if only there were some light bucket options for it - I know its lights are a bit complicated but still...

I'm finding it impossible to fully tighten the wheel nuts on my TT-02, whether with the included tool, or a dedicated tool with a handle. How hard should it be to tighten them? Getting it as tight as I can, the hub cap piece is still loose and barely catching the circles on the wheel itself. Any advice? Thanks.

edit: I should add that I have the Yeah Racing front drive shaft which is where I am having some trouble - once it hits the rubber stopper it will not tighten more.

edit2: I think the issue is that I didn't screw the hubcaps to the wheel. The main TT02 directions don't show that, maybe the body directions do.

edit3: Car running! Seems to be running great. Now for the body. Thanks to all for help.

Happy Sunday......Easter for some.....

I spent some time this morning working on the TT-02, installing some small obvious and needed upgrades like adding the damn heatsink (yes I know weight but also easily removed), aluminum wheel hubs, enough with those plastic POS things......

I also pulled the rear CVAs and took care of some of the droop with a rubber donut internally on the shaft and for now I refilled the rears with the Tamiya oil (anyone know the actual weight of that oil?). I then went about trying to get my ride height dialed since I am on flat carpet. My original measurement was ~12mm rear which is darn high. I dropped the shock mounting ball joint to the lower position and of course that got me to about 6mm with one pre-load spacer in. Front is about 1-2mm higher for now.

Aluminum steering parts are coming in tomorrow or Tuesday so I will then address the front end and probably take the opportunity to pack the front diff with heavier grease to tighten things up a bit. I am also going on the sauce this week......

I will also need to do some body trimming due to the new ride height.

What horrible mistakes am I making so far? Or am I directionally heading the right way to hopefully gaining some more traction in the rear while hopefully still being able to actually steer.....

Definitely have your front lower than your rear.. the heatsink doesn’t really help much, just takes an extra minute for the motor to get hot.. if you are running the torque tuned motor.. they seem to like running hot.. you will wear out the brushes before you cook the magnets.. and since they are cheap.. just replace it when you see ‘gold’ dust coming out 🖖

I had the heat sink so I threw it on.....but yeah I don't expect much out of it and frankly at like $17 the motors are 100% disposable......that piece may stay off unless I need to balance the right side, but I doubt that will be needed as weight bias was a touch to the right anyways.

I will get the front lower but I am not going to work on that until I rebuild the steering rack, add the metal ball pivots to the front A-Arms etc. Once I get it all together I will work on lowering the front. I tested the bottom shock ball joint in the lower hole but that was WAY too low. I prefer to drop the front to 5mm and leave the back as is and see how it runs.

While I was able to drive the car competitively in last week's races in semi-drift mode, that isn't exactly what I am shooting for. A little slide is fine as long as it is predictable and not true under/oversteer.

I put a heat sink and fan on mine. Doubt it weighs much more than that strange plastic heat shield Tamiya supplies, and it looks kinda cool.

How much does weight affect racing performance?

Right now with weight I am more concerned with balance than I am with overall weight. Last I checked I was weighing in at 1404 grams with a 51% bias to the right side......so I may opt out on the heatsink as it will just increase the Right side bias......

As for overall weight, I am far from an expert but the touring class min is 1320 grams so I can clearly put the car on a diet if I wanted to. Although I am about to add some aluminum parts for durability like steering assembly etc. so I am kinda porking it up a bit.....

Combined with the tires.. I would say weight is key.. but it is a combination of center of gravity, weight distribution and weight transfer.. that’s why people buy lightweight bodies.. and then add weights on the chassis to make sure they hit minimum weight.. springs and dampers help you dial in how the weight moves around when cornering.. goal being to have it push down on the tires that are about to loose traction… but not too much.. cuz then it will traction roll..

Get a lightweight body, stick in a shorty pack and you’ll be a lot closer to minimum weight already 🖖

I think I might do just that.

I'll stick with the Mustang for a little bit as I bash around and get things figured out but I'm at 1443grams loaded up with body etc. and a shorty pack would make a world of difference. That and I can pull the chunky plastic wing off the body as it just clips on and while it looks good, it is a tad heavy.

What pack would you recommend? I'm currently just running the Tourque Tuned and have a 5200mah pack that is fairly hefty.

Everyone out here will have their own favorite battery.. in the end.. there are only so many factories that make them.. most brands just put them in their own case.. put their own label on them.. for my TT02 - I like the Protek 4400mah ULCG packs that amain sells, they are reasonably priced… if you buy them when they have a sale going.. even better.. the Torque Tuned doesn’t draw a lot of amps, so no need to spend crazy money on a ‘top end’ battery..

EAM seems to be very good and used by quite a few top racers. Never tried one myself, though.