Combined with the tires.. I would say weight is key.. but it is a combination of center of gravity, weight distribution and weight transfer.. that’s why people buy lightweight bodies.. and then add weights on the chassis to make sure they hit minimum weight.. springs and dampers help you dial in how the weight moves around when cornering.. goal being to have it push down on the tires that are about to loose traction… but not too much.. cuz then it will traction roll..

Get a lightweight body, stick in a shorty pack and you’ll be a lot closer to minimum weight already 🖖

I think I might do just that.

I'll stick with the Mustang for a little bit as I bash around and get things figured out but I'm at 1443grams loaded up with body etc. and a shorty pack would make a world of difference. That and I can pull the chunky plastic wing off the body as it just clips on and while it looks good, it is a tad heavy.

What pack would you recommend? I'm currently just running the Tourque Tuned and have a 5200mah pack that is fairly hefty.

Everyone out here will have their own favorite battery.. in the end.. there are only so many factories that make them.. most brands just put them in their own case.. put their own label on them.. for my TT02 - I like the Protek 4400mah ULCG packs that amain sells, they are reasonably priced… if you buy them when they have a sale going.. even better.. the Torque Tuned doesn’t draw a lot of amps, so no need to spend crazy money on a ‘top end’ battery..

EAM seems to be very good and used by quite a few top racers. Never tried one myself, though.

Hmm, I should've investigated this first. I am going to run HV and I figured the better the capacity the longer it would stay at high voltage, so I got a pair of 9000mAh Zeee LiHV batteries. Guess I should look into some ~6000mAh short packs?

If we go with a shorty pack in a TT-02........what does everyone use to keep the battery in place front to back given the extra space created by the smaller pack? Is it TCS legal?

Figured I might as well throw up a pic of where my little guy is at.......because pics make people smile.



Current porky weight with body and wing.

I use small foam blocks as spacers.

+1 for foam.

you’ll go just as fast with 4000mah packs with mabuchi

So I could easily use on of my Reedy shorty packs in 7.6V 4000mah from my TLR as I have the correct adapter from bullets to the T plug on the 1060.......with a block of foam and drop the weight and push it back towards the middle of the car vs. the heavy front left wheel I have now.

Of course I am guessing for TCS I would have to use the full sized pack for a stock(ish) class, right?

EDIT: I put one of my shorty 4000mah batteries in with the proper leads and a small block of foam to keep the batteries weight out back for now and it came in at 1392 grams with the body......so about a 50 gram reduction. The car alone with no body or battery is ~1059 grams as is.

Only Euro Truck requires a full size pack.. so yes.. go ahead and play around with the shorty battery placement.. when using the corner scales, keep in mind that your shocks/springs are part of the equation.. gets complicated.. but your cross weight is way off.. even with the heavy battery on the left you are biased to the right.. time to take a close look at your shocks.. one thing I do.. I use grey color shocks for the rear.. black for the front.. that way I never accidentally install them backwards.. anyway.. if you added o-rings to limit droop.. start with making sure front and rear pairs are the same length at full droop.. next take off the springs and see if they have the same rebound.. if not.. time to check for air.. make sure it is the correct weight oil.. same piston in both.. lots of things to fiddle with..🖖

7.4V 4000mAh will go as fast as 7.6V 9000mAh? or 7.6V 4000mAh will?

Yes, since you are only allowed to charge both of them to 8.4V.. but the 7.6 LIHV batteries will typically also have a higher C-rating.. meaning they can discharge faster, giving you more punch.. that’s why I like the Protek batteries.. 7.6 LIHV and 130C at a reasonable price.. but I would choose a higher C-rating over the higher voltage rating.. as for the mAh rating.. think of that as the number of gallons in your tank.. since we only race 5 minute heats.. you don’t need 9000 gallons.. you basically carry around a lot of extra fuel that you won’t use..

The track I want to race at allows HV, up to 8.7V, in stock TT02.