Cool - it all comes down to the discharge curve of your battery.. if you compare normal Lipo with HV Lipo you’ll see that you will burn off the extra voltage very quickly.. at which point there really is little difference.. that said.. that extra speed for the first 30 seconds can get you out in front of the pack.. that’s why in most races you will see that they restrict the max voltage to 8.4 or 8.44.. at that point there is no difference between a HV Lipo and a classic Lipo..

Good stuff. I rebuilt all the shocks this week and just installed the Yeah Racing front universals last night. Noticed I had flipped a front A-Arm while doing the pivot balls the day before, swapped that around, front end is in good shape, front shocks I am running heavier oil than rear as I needed to stiffen it up. Similar rebound on all shocks. I will hit them with the calipers to check length. The O-ring I used in the rears are slightly thicker than the ones in the front by choice.

With the shorty pack I can move it around but the motor is just a heavy item on that back right corner. I'm not sure how to get the cross weight more in line. I played with preload to see what happened on the scales and it felt odd to play with preload unevenly on the shocks so I ditched that idea. I also won't have a chance to get it on the track until next week........

If I go as far to try and corner balance, I do always end up with uneven pre-load on the shocks. This is how you can shift the weight around without adding more weight to the chassis. I've never had any issues using this method.

Thanks for the "gut check" there as I was able to play with some preload spacers, just the smallest change on the opposite corners got me to the updated weight with body etc. below. I'm happy with the cross-weights being 50/50 and feel this is probably a solid place to start back on the track.

The only thing that I am slightly concerned about is that I need either drop my front ride height by 1mm or raise my rear as I am 6 front 5 rear right now. Of course I could shift my shorty pack forward which then will throw off the cross weights again but.......

That looks much better already! Definitely lower the front to at least be the same as the rear, in general you want to be as low as allowed, and raise the rear a little for better turn-in. Also.. Tamiya makes lots of different tires.. they don’t necessarily all work equally well on a track.. if it’s open tires where you race.. see what the locals are using.. it will make a big difference..

Thanks for the thoughts.

At the local track we are running spec PowerHobby brand tires........it is what it is....BUT they allow any PowerHobby tire so that allows for some experimentation. I also can sauce and the first time out I didn't have any of that ready to go......I do now :-)

I can play around with the pre-load spacers to get the rear up a touch but possibly keep the same level of slight offset to stay close to the 50/50 cross balance.

Since I cannot get to the track for a few days I have been setting up both the TT-02 and my TLR this past week. I did some additional work on the TT-02 as while I was able to get the balance better a couple days ago, I was still front-high vs. the rear. So I had to swap back the rear shock mounting positions to get back to where the rear is slightly higher. I was able to swap out rear springs to a.lighter set, which allowed a little more sag in the rear and I think that will also help the rear end hook up a bit better under power.

After the spring and shock position swap I then rebalanced things with pre-load......and here is where I landed and where I will start next week's race night for setup.

I know that feeling.. you been tinkering.. not being able to get out and try it on the track… the suspense.. definitely let us know how it goes when you finally get it out to the track🖖

Hey guys, I'm looking into buying a TT-02 car. I'm presently in Orlando and I'm looking for an indoor on road track to start at. Any ideas as to where I can check out and get a feel of the place? This is the 1st car I've bought in about 30yrs. I raced Tamiya when I was kid and now that I have time once again I'm wanting to get back into rc racing.

Not familiar about the tracks in Orlando, but this is a good start https://www.rctech.net/forum/florida-racing-54/

Theres nothing wrong with the TT02 but that might not be the best racing setup for your local track. Check out the locals first then get your car choice after that.

Well.......got the updated TT-02 out on the track this evening and it was an adventure.......I changed so many things over the past 2 weeks that it needed a lot of dialing in., I went from no grip and sliding around to too much grip and traction rolling carrying speed into corners. That was all my fault as I sauced the tires based on advice and I really didn't need it. In fact I finally got my crap together for the "Main" (small classes and fun informal Thurs night racing) and was able to get some consistent laps in. Gluing up the side wall on the front tires helped a ton.

The upgraded Tamiya aluminum and plastic servo saver was a wild piece of crap waste of money and failed during practice laps, went with a straight up servo arm........

Once I got the tire and traction situation dialed in the car was decent.......I need to leave it alone for a bit and just start with this setup next week. But the TT-02 is stupid basher fun......

Once you get to the point where you know that the car is fundamentally sound, you definitely want to use small incremental changes to dial it in for track and track conditions.. until you get to that point.. big changes will show you how it’s affecting the car much better.. I like to overdo changes.. see what the effect is.. then dial it back..

I do the same thing as far as changes, and I am normally a firm believer in the scientific method of making one change at a time, and in this case all that went out the window as I changed so much over the past couple weeks. I wouldn't say the car is dialed in still but it is no longer totally off the reservation as it was earlier in the night.

I had to stiffen up the front shocks a ton as the new tires were so grippy. I may pull the spacers (quick track side adjustment) and move to stiffer springs in combo with glued sidewalls and start there.

All good......right now with the TT-02 I don't "drive" it.....I "guide" it around the track.

Thanks for the tips and support.

Good thinking, I try to tell people to use a basic servo arm and spend the extra $15 on a good servo. It's a brushed on-roader with the wheels tucked in and behind a giant foam bumper, you're probably not going to break your servo.

And if I do......it's $60.....not the end of the world. I come from a world of racing Mountain Bikes, a tire is $80-100 lol.......with RC you gotta pay to play and if you do play, you will break things, it is all part of the gig.

The only thing that kinda sucks is that if I race a TCS (or Box stock) event I am "gray" on whether the straight servo arm is legal as it is not "built to kit specs" but their kit spec is crap.......IMHO