Oh boy, there's a lot to unpack here. i'm going to go line by line.

So, this is a thing people don't tell "you" enough about. First, put grease on the screws as you put them in. This reduces the torque you need, and by reducing the torque you need, you "feel" when it bottoms out. That stops you from stripping the screws. Also, when you re-install a screw into a Tamiya car, turn it backwards first until it "clicks" so you don't cross-thread.
TT01e's run as euro truck without any trouble, with the stock setup. So... does my TT02. Now, trying to drive the stock shoulder screws in, sucks, unless you've got grease on the threads, so they build sloppy unless you go to real effort to get them assembled properly. I tried throwing dollars at the steering with my TT02b. I.. believe now.. that was not money well spent.
What model car do you have? I've never lost a dogbone on a TT02 (normal) car. Or my TT01. The TT02b.. well... there's a lot of BS in that platform. If you want those grub screws to stay in place, some loctite is necessary. Or locking collars. You should also look to make sure your foam or rubber buffers are in your drive cups.
The stock hexes are dependent on clamping force to face them up.
Yup. Yes this is a bit crazy. It's worth it, to keep in mind, that if you make "one part tougher" that stress goes somewhere else.
You need to describe more of what you mean by lock up. Locking up means "stops turning". You'll need to get a bit more into what is actually happening.
That borders on the exact opposite of what the car is designed around.

Throwing parts at cars, rarely solves the problems you think they'll solve. At least "upgrade parts".

So there's a bunch of questions here. First, where are you driving? What surfaces? What have you bought and installed? What did you intend on solving by installing them? Also, what drivetrain are you running?

I'm running a TT02, with bearings. .......... that's it. And a TT02b MS, that has... well more parts than I'd care to admit thrown at it. 13.5brushless isn't being kind to the TT02b. (Fiber shock towers, aluminum rear hubs, Yeah Racing shocks, Aluminum drive shaft, steel drive cups and dogbones, Yeah racing aluminum steering setup, bearings, adjustable camber and toe links..... and i'm sure i'm forgetting things.)

Yup.... it’s lacking a ton. I found the TT01e to be a much better “beginner” chassis. You feel
it with the build and the way it drives. Go figure.

Driving on rough asphalt outdoor track! Bought aluminium replacements for most of the drivetrain + adjustable motor mount from yeah racing to enable me to use 64p gearing. Also got the metal gearbox joints so I can use the universal drive shafts (cvds) because every I hopped a corner a little or bumped my car the stock dogbones would literally fall out. And the racing steering of course. Also bought some turnbuckles because I didn't like that you can't adjust toe in , toe out and the steering felt 10x smoother replacing the servo arm from the fixed length link to a turnbuckle.


Really disappointed to learn that the tt01e comes with turnbuckles but everything on the tt02 is fixed

When I say 'lock up' i mean that when returning cornering it tends have a slight delay before returning to the middle when I steer left/right. I have a friend driving a tb04 and it doesn't seem to have that issue.

Honestly if I was to restart this hobby knowing what I know now I'd probably start with something like the Xpress XQ1S or a 2nd hand xray ..... around the same price point, much better drivetrain and more realistic and adjustable than tamiyas stock models. (Given that you're looking for a 1/10 on-road touring car)

So... I bought my TT02 as a basher. And I ran it on a gravel road. No trouble there....

The TT01e doesn't come with any turnbuckles.

That "lockup" sounds like overtravel on your servo. You can try going to the slightly shorter hole, or fix your EPA to take care of that. Assuming you have a decent radio.

Your experience.. is surprising. They're designed to be durable. And the sealed drivetrain helps that. But if you plan on racing, the TT series cars aren't where it's at. Unless it's needed for the class you're in. If.... You want a new car. PM me, I might have something for you.

Yeah it was recommended as a first car to get into the hobby but honestly I've sunk way too much I should've just gotten a 2nd hand 1-2 year old chassis instead learned from my mistakes and picked up an awesomatix a800x evo 2nd hand already. Appreciate the offer though thanks


I made a mistake, I meant the tt01D. Because I originally got the tt02d for the oil shocks + bearings and it just looks like they took a step backward in that department

Stock up on suspension pivot clips for that Awesomatix. Also.. a spare top and bottom deck. You won't regret keeping those as spares.

Because it sounds like you've been tossed in without the cheat sheet. Get a thread forming tap. Not thread cutting. Locktite for all metal to metal joints that have nothing as a squish medium. (EG bulkheads through an aluminum chassis with steel screws? those need locktite. If there''s a carbon chassis, you don't need to.) Be sure to setup sane endpoints for your servos. If you don't, and there's overtravel, you're going to waste input into your servo saver. "even" is more important than "no slop".

Good luck on your new car. :-)

Anyone know anything about that TT-02 SR coming out?

the rc racer got news and pics. I m not into the forum rules that why you need to google.
Just the adjustable rear camber mount is nice and I hope you can buy it separate.

Look here.

Looks like that type-sr is going to be expensive with all dose add-ons

Hello All, 20+ year racer, but been out about 10 years now and looking to get back on a very slim budget. I don't really know anything about Tamiya, but founf this and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it. Based on the tt01-e, which so I've read so far not the best of choice for VTA. But this has the upgrades and CF chassis so thought it might be a viable choice. Can't beat the price. Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

TL;DR: Buy a Sakura Advance S. It's $110, has everything you need to be competitive on-road.

The longer story. Aluminum, isn't good for suspension bits. That "kit" has no adjustable camber. No way to adjust suspension blocks. Who knows if it comes with useful diffs (unlikely at best). Who knows what the support system is like. EG: can you replace an arm. How do you put swaybars on it? Can the chassis be narrowed so it doesn't drag on the carpet? How do you adjust droop? All you really need to know, is that that chassis has slots for NiCd batteries.

It's fancy looking, it's there to look good for drifters. It's not for racing.

+1

so the 02r would be a better option? are any parts interchangeable with the 01? Did the win at all cost years ago, just looking to hit new local track once a month or so