+1

Xray servo saver is first choice, especially when racing. Tamiya is pretty darn good.. does wear.. but moving parts wear.

I’d rather replace a servo saver than gears in servo. You’re not just chipping a gear when you go direct, there is other collateral damage that in the long run will ruin the servo.. so unless it’s a cheap $20, use a servo saver

Hey
I am currently setting up my tt02 for some parking lot racing. I am just getting back into it after a few years off. Please comment on my setup, any direction would be appreciated. My concern is the FDR is way off. Plus I am struggling to get no rebound in those shocks, any tips?

Sport tuned motor 64p 95t/43 FDR 5.75
Yeah 55mm shocks 500cst with 3 hole and front and rear red springs soft. from the yeah kit.
Ride height 5mm front and back
gear diffs front and rear
front diff 20k
rear diff 8k
CVD front and rear
Fully ceramic bearings cage and rollers.
hard chassis
3.0 degrees rear toe in
1.0 front toe out
Zoo racing hellcat body
HW 1060 esc

ZLeader

Gearing: You need the yeah racing motor mount if you don’t have it. The maximum gear combo I have been able to fit in TT02 is 78T / 53T 3.83 fdr. This was with a brushless 21.5. You will need to trim the gear box cover or even cut a hole out to clear the large pinion.

Now with a sport tune however, an FDR of 3.8 will heat the brushes and launch them inside the motor lol.. I’ve experience it first hand. So you’re probably need to gear it to 4.5 fdr tops.

Springs: Try a different brand spring.. yeah racing springs rates are an unknown for racing, so hard to say what you need.

zleader 99, have a look at my post Tamiya TT02 Thread for the mods I made to accommodate brushless

Thank you both for the insite. I did install the highspeed gear set and the Yeah motor mount I had it out this afternoon doing some practice in the school parking lot. The motor was a little warm. I changed to a 41/95 with an FDR of 6.0ish. I will try that tomorrow,
As for the shocks, I have ordered the TRF 55mm however they are on back order, I tried the TRF springs on the yeah 55mm shocks. DId not seem to work well, I could not get the right hight in check . I will try the red rear and blue front from the yeah kit. Hopefully that will correct my issues untill the tamiya shocks come in. I am having a trouble getting no rebound on the yeah shocks.
I am stuck to using the tamiya brushed motors for our club race. We run box stock silver can and chassis with bearings The mod class is bascially any add ons. However Brush motors Torque or Sport tune and the HW 1060 or Tamiya version.

SteveM I will check out your post shorty.



Is there a big difference run the TT02 with the TA05 suspension? I looking to set one up for parking lot and one for carpet.

Thanks

What class are you planning on running first?

zero rebound, you need to drill a hole
in the cap, same is needed with TRF shocks.

when you say right height, is it due to the springs being too soft? Too short? Post pictures we we can help

The TA05 style suspension that comes with the type S if allowed is much better suspension geometry. The arms are longer, better ability to adjust camber, roll centre etc. you also can opt for the down stops which will give you droop control.

Thanks for the tip on the drilling the cap. Are the TRF shocks any better than the Yeah? For my level of racing I highly doubt it.
When I used the TRF springs on the Yeah shocks I could not obtain the ride height. Standing the spring next to each other the Tamiya was a coil or two longer. When I get home I will take a picture.
I found the Yeah Red on the rear and yellow up front worked for a starting point. Using 500cst oil. Sunday I plan on doing a club racing. I will see how it goes.

So far the only issue I have had was a bent turnbuckle in the upper front adjustable arm. I was able to replace it with a Ti one from an xray t4 kit I found. Hopefully that will tighten up the front a little.

I do believe I bought the wrong spring set, thats why I was having trouble setting the ride height on the YEAH shocks.
Correct me if I SHOULD have bought the soft kit.

Sorted the spring issue out. I did not know Tamiya had so many types of TC springs. The one I pictured above is the right one. I ended up using the Yellow (medium) for the front and a Blue soft from the 53163 road rally spring set.

I need to try the yellow /blue springs on my GT MK II.

Hi. I have seen that there is a spool for the TT-02, the Tamiya #22047, and tamiya sells the conic gears as spare part #51704. Watching this spare gears,




I noticed that they are very similar to the conic gears of the old TT-01 ball differential #53663, but with 12 holes instead 10. Does anyone know if this gear could fit on the TT-01 differential? I think that adding 2 ball more, probably, but it will be great if someo can confirm it.

Hi all - I am wondering what hop ups/upgrades or full setups would be a good starting point if picking up a TT02 for onroad club racing? I would be starting out just learning to drive again before jumping into a novice class but would like to have it set up where it can be competitive after that

Don't fool yourself. The tt02, isn't good for club racing, unless there is a specific TT class.

The TT02 is a reliable, consistent, drivable car. It is a platform you can learn on. But it's not good for racing in "open" classes. There are $100 cars that have all the features, caster, camber, easily swapped gearing, metal body shocks, oil filled shocks, anti-dive, adjustable toe, adjustable camber gain, adjustable roll centers... which are things that are essentially out of the question for TT cars.

So what you want to hear. Buy a good steering servo. Something with less than 0.1 second 60deg rating. Spend $30 on some yeah racing or 3 racing oil filled shocks. Spend $25 on a bearing set. Buy a heavy duty servo saver (Tamiya's is good) which is $10 or so. Spending more money is shoveling good money after bad. This is entirely about making the car controllable and long lasting, so you can learn to drive. The pogo sticks it comes with make the car less consistent. the stock servo saver is to soft to drive straight really. And bearings remove a lot of slop from the wheels so the car goes where you want it to go.

If you want to get actually competitive, you really need to buy a different car. "the parts to get those features" are available for the TT02, but you do not want a $1000 tt02. And buying carbon shock towers, TRF416 arms, adjustable roll center parts, gearing parts, oil filled diff, spool adapter, universal joints, metal drive cups, swaybars, and more quickly ends up the cost of just buying something capable to start with.

Best thing to do is check with your local club as there are different levels to attain.
Our club runs a Production class - TT02/TT01e. Box build. Only allowed ball bearings, USGT tires, universal joints and some mods that do not improve performance but improves reliability.
After that the next step is USGT which the TT02 will be slaughtered in.
I've been running the Production class when I got back into the hobby in summer 2020. It's a fun class as every car is basically a spec car. So there's no advantage except the driver.
Could mods I recommend as long as your club allows is using a longer hex screw when assembling the front steering knuckles. These are pretty fragile when you first start out. Longer screw will reinforce this area.



Also trim the "ears" on the front suspension arms and the steering knuckle AFTER installing universal joints for the front. The "ears" or the steering limiters will limit how much steering you will have. After trimming you will have more steering for sharper corners.
Add some sticky grease to the front diff and leave the rear empty (at least this is how I like my car). I use Lucas Red & Tacky, some others use AW Grease. You want some diff action but do not lock the front diff.
Lastly we add a little Lucas Red & Tacky in our shocks to prevent them from pogo-sticking while cornering.