Last time when infinity won..... Marc? Round 1 in Austria or somewhere else?

Hi guys. Can anyone help me about setup of my car? The our track has low to medium grip and for this at the rear is not stable. Is better if use mid low roll center at the Rear? Normally I use high roll center but especially in change directions is very loose to drive. Thanks

I will help you with your setup to get the car to work well. This car requires the owner to think outside the box. I bought the Evo when it first came out and was at first pleased with the car and was attracted to it because it was different. After the first few pratice days here in the S.F. Bay Area the car was suddenly loose everywhere. I almost gave up on this car. The default setup is good but the suspension rocker arms developed some play in the bearings so there was over 1mm of play in the suspension before the shock would move. Also, running the low roll center setting in the back of the car I noticed the rear suspension arms were touching the chassis on the down travel. These two things made the car loose everywhere. Now I have new rocker pieces installed in the car and run a high roll center setting in back of the car. The car is planted everywhere now.
Try Mr. Law's setup that was used at the nationals as a starting point.. That setup is posted on petiterc's site. I use a very stiff rear suspension setup with a slightly softer front setup and now my Evo never spins out.
Hope that helps.
Maurice

Thank Maurice. I have pro version.

Picked up two 4x Pros (and SF4 F1) less than a month ago. Had a super fun time building them. Unfortunately, I was on a time crunch and had to get them ready for my first race in less than a week. I highly recommend never trying that. Trust me. Lol.

Review:

Instructions are pretty straight forward but you can’t totally appreciate the ingenuity that went into the car till you see the whole car together. Everything fits very well with tight tolerances except where there were bearings there was a bit of play like the centre pulley part between the holder, the rocker and the steering mechanism up and down. Works just fine but might get some very thin shims later.

Again, I was limited by time but the 3 parts of the build I was a bit worried about was the rear diff, heave shock and the roll shocks. But building them were easy but I had problems with leaking. In the diff, I had leaking coming from the sides of the 4 screws that hold the two parts together and between the edges of the 2 halves. That I blame myself not tightening the two halves together enough and I’ll use green slime on my rebuild. The main shock I also had leaking at the bleeder hole. I’m surprised that hole is only blocked off by a 3x5x1 shim held tight by a ball cup. I’m gonna add some very thick grease/anti-wear grease in there and tighten the ball cup even more. The roll damper was nice. No leaking and very easy to access to change things and to adjust tweak. Any advice for reducing the diff and shock leaking would be awesome.

Car is light. I didn’t know how light it was until I put all the electronics in. I’m using the stock carbon chassis (awaiting my aluminun chassis hopefully this week) and I had to add 50 grams of weight in my Modified car (5.0t Orca OE1) horribly in a stack on the electronics side and 70 grams of weight in my Stock car (21.5t Orca OE101) in a more horribly higher stack on the electronics side. I picked up a thin sheet of brass which I will cut to fit under the battery so esthetically it will look better and lower centre of gravity too. I didn’t weigh the carbon chassis but does anyone know the weight of the Carbon vs the Aluminum chassis so I can get the right weight of brass cut when I rebuild over the aluminum chassis? I think putting the brass under the battery would be the best placement. Advice?

Car drives awesome. I just used Joachim Bruneau’s setup on Petitrc (http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/ser...Setup20190105/) cause I’m on high grip CRC carpet. Corner speed I think is on par with the Awesomematix’s at my club. I just need to figure the stock motor gearing setup and learn to figure out the mod settings on the Orca ESC and work on throttle control. Once I get the aluminum chassis I’ll rebuild the car (taking my time) and then I’ll start playing around with setup. I see a lot of potential.

Car is durable. I did break a small part cause I flew off the track and it hit a concrete corner not hard just awkwardly. I did have some screws come loose on my first 4-5 runs but I blame just building the car too fast and not checking on screw tolerances. I do notice the screws on the top deck a bit loose after each run but I’m probably not tightening them enough but I’m not sure how much tighter to hammer them down. I’m just worried going too tight and stripping the aluminum that the screws are going into. Anyone have any advice or use blue locktight on any screws?

I’ve had 1 race weekend and 1 club race on my cars and very happy with them. Could have tried any car but wanted to try something different. Happy with my decision. Not too worried about parts support cause either Serpent America or overseas like rcmarket are well stocked. I think the car is like when the Awesomatix first came out. A lot of interest but everyone was apprehensive until a good little community formed around them and now there’s great setup help and the car is probably the fastest in the club racer’s hand. I know it’s a boutique kind of car just hoping for little help here and there and for me to try different things to renew my interest in this hobby and this car is doing that for me.

Hope more onroad racers give this car a try. It’s a 180 departure from what I use to do and glad I got the 4x pro…..even with this new X20 car coming out. Also nice to see this forum with everyone helping out. It was some of these guys that answered my PM’s that also helped me make my decision to go with the 4x pro. Thank you.

May try the mid motor conversion in the future but I’ve already got my plate full with what’s in front of me already.

Ivan

ps. The Serpent F1 car is also a beauty!

Congrats on the purchase Ivan. I myself have the SF4 and the Evo 4x and absolutely love the car. I would highly recommend a tiny bit of blue loctite anytime you are screwing into metal. I've have a few screws come off in the past (not only on this car but many others) and I find that putting a bit of loctite definitely helps keep the car together.

I'll have to trim the "tab" above the motor but it looks like repurposing my BD9 Medius conversion only required the new main chassis plate. Pretty cool.
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Hi guys I would like mid low post roll center but when I have tried to set droop I have see that 1.5 mm is impossibile to set. Can anyone help me?

Can you elaborate on that, you only needed the chassis plate to go mid motor?

I've a EVO, need a new chassis plate, was thinking getting the mid kit and nail two in one (new chassis + update)
I use the vertical top deck, so I can get away not buy that, but do I need the motor mount and pulleys? Can't I use the EVO mount in the new layout position?
Thanks.

You need the Medius motor mount (and everything else) to use the mid pulley chassis. You would have to buy the whole conversion kit and just end up with the option to use the vertical upper deck. Another option to consider are the Arrowmax magnesium chassis plates (rear motor).