Put green slime on all your damper parts before assembly, not just on the O rings...

No shit. Been doing it for many many years . Still doesn't help them most people in here race stock and probably won't see it as much since shocks get put thru more stress in mod which is what I race all the time.

Try the hpi orings. They are a bit bigger.
Never used stock from the get go. Hpis have never leaked on me.

What parts have you all seen break in a hard hit! What measurements are out of line or aren't straight after a good hit also? Looking to see how this compares to a A800.

For the shocks, I think a harder oring is needed. I guess as the shock is smaller and there's much more pressure in the system as it goes through action that softer orings are allowing some of the pressure to bleed through it - this is especially so on the heave damper

I've started using the Kyosho orange x-rings. These are harder than normal orings and will bind slightly when first built but after the first couple of packs, they'll bed in and be smooth and I've not had any problems with air bleeding into the heave damper since using these x-rings

Pretty much everything in the starter pack -
I've had a caster hub crack
top wishbone crack
I did find that the little nuts holding the ball ends on the wishbones did pop out too - http://www.serpent.com/product/411048/ so when I rebuilt, I added a small dab of superglue to hold things in place (a VERY small dab)
Hard front on crash, also have had the plastic roll damper bearing holders break on me too

After looking over the one i have here it seems possible to use a team prime 12th scale shock with a little effort.. if someone can make it work thats the end of the problem. Those are the smoothest shocks around.

What parts are in the starter pack, there isn't a description of the items on serpents website.

Starter-pack 4-X Includes 401656 Wishbone lower fr/rr 4-X (2) 401657 Wishbone upper fr/rr 4-X (2) 401660 Wheelhub fr/rr L+R 4-X 401705 Spring C4.4 4-X (2) 401707 Spring C5.5 4-X (2) 401710 Spring C7.6 4-X (2) 401712 Spring C9.5 4-X (2) 401721 Balljoint 4.5 (10) 401722 Balljoint 4.5 short (16)

I picked one of these up and the Early packs of these must have been over packed as mine included 4 X each of the lower and upper arms and hubs instead of 2

Somehow I've stripped a main gear in the gear diff and the local dealer is out of stock. I have my states in 2 weeks so struggling for ideas on how to run the car. Has Anyone shoehorned an X-ray diff into one of these? Seems like the xray unit is .5mm wider at the bearing edge and 2mm overall out drive to out drive. I have a new T4 I can steal parts from.

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Haven't tried it but do you think the individual gears from the X-ray may fit?

The xray diff used to fit in the ERYX so it may fit in the 4x but you have to use xray driveshafts and axles too. Worth a try!

Thought I would throw out a question I have been thinking about. I believe on my ERYX 2.0 or was it the 3.0 I forget but the front spool outdrives did not use blades . The pin on the driveshaft was larger. My question is why the change?? The dcj driveshafts have a lot of slop on there own and the rate the blades go out it produces even more slop . I am going to be trying other blades like the X-ray ones but right now I am using arc blades as the serpent ones are brittle like the ball cups . But it was just a thought of mine. Personally I liked it better with no blades.

It was on the 1.0/2.0 that had the steel outdrives that didn't use pin cushions. The pins where/are the same size as the existing DJC though and not any larger. The pins would eventually hog the outdrives out and the pins themselves where succeptable to chipping and the the pins where/are glued in and virtually impossible to replace. I managed to get them out a few times but its quite difficult. The xray blades are on a larger ball so you'll have to be creative to take the slop out because of the size difference. The xray because of being larger will not seat properly in the outdrive if you try to run it out of the package. Cars like the ARC and the Yokomo use the same size blades. The ARC DJC will work in a pinch as a replacement for the Serpent DJC, and I personally think they may be a better product in that application. just be aware of the pin location for the hex and also the stub should be cut back to avoid additional suspension breakage snagging boards. Serpent no longer makes the outdrives that use no blades, but they would be a straight replacement as the lock pin locations are still the same as the new Serpent outdrives.

The Xray diff will fit with some slight modification, but as Dan said, you have to run the rest of the Xray axles as the ball diameter is larger on the Xray and if you try to run the Serpent axles in the Xray diff the axle will throw to the big side or rattle around in the outdrive. Also, I think the Xray is one tooth different in size compared to the Serpent.

The internal gears will fit between the two diffs but the big gear that sits it the big part of the diff case may require some filing on the edge as the gear sits into sort of a pocket.