you ever tried this, after a race I burn the fuel out, when I get home I take it apart and I rub everything inside using a qtip and high temp silicone greese, so also adds to the protection next time I run, I never have a problem and I feel the greese bonds to the metels ..

Nope. But again there are no isues. Last I did a break in a day before I did go to a race. I knew for this model (JP 35V2) the piston was very tight so I did a small handlapping before it. After the bath, no cleaning, I directly mounted the clutch and started it the next day with practise. A good idle and a lot of smoke and smell from the Shell 0W20 oil which slowly did disapear. No issues with the glowplug and the engine looks clean inside.

roelof latly I have been adding 1 ounce of pure castor to my 1 gallon of fuel do u add anything?

Nope, not needed with Runnertime. I know with some fuels like Merlin Pro and the last Tornado it was wise to do so due the 8 or 9% oil content.

Roelof: Can i ask why you use a replacement button with larger hole over the standard engine button? Is it to move more oil through a larger hole? If so can i ask why size hole is in the centre for both .12 button and .21? And are these engine specific fittings or fits all brand engines?

Also in a vertical position am I right in thinking no backplate or is something put in place of with an opening for oil to pass through?

When using the original head button the hole is too small for a resistance free oil flow. Also the squish band will give some extra load on the electric motor pushing the oil in between out of there. Actuall there is no need to make such a ring, with most engines a simple nut will lock the sleeve on its position.

And yes, although people claim there is no need of a backplate I would like to have one. There is some sideway play on the conrod so it can hang half on the crank pin. To prevent that I made an universal backplate. The backplate needs to be open so no hydro lock will be caused when the crankcase is filled with 100% oil. If you are doing a lot of the same engines and you have an old dameged one you just can use its backplate and drill a hole in the middle

Roelof:

Thank you for reply!

A nut on screw you mean? Or thinking a washer or countersunk screw aluminium washer for each of the head bolts.

With regards to backplate and crank play, wondering with no access to a CNC machine if installing a flywheel on the crank would remove the play without the backplate or is the rod still then an issue?

Thanks in advance and sorry for so many questions.

Yes, a simple headscrew with maybe a spacer can lock the sleeve to stay put.

Regarding the backplate. Look inside the piston when the rod is mounted, it has some play to move sideways over the piston pin. That play will also cause a bit of a move of the rod over the crank pin. It is not much with most design pistons but in my opinion it is not what you want to happen.

Indeed you also want to stay the crank shaft in its position, I made a simple long nut to screw on the crankshaft but a simple flywheel nut with a spacer will work also. Anothe trick is making a tube from the bearing up until the flex coupler that will lock up the crankshaft from sliding in the bearing..

Do you have a machine?

I have used transmission oil, no problem with that. Most important from what we have seen is that the viscocity at 100 degrees celcius must be lower than 10, the oils we all have good results with have a viscocity of arround 7 to 8

No, but i would like to build one. Im currently sourcing for the parts.

Are these machines still recommended and if so where can we purchase one?

https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...ent-69337.html

What????

You linked Harbor Freight, they do not carry the EBIS. Rctarget has their version.

https://www.liverc.com/news/new_prod...eak-In_System/