Yes, it could be an idea and safe working on 12v but they have a wide range and huge tolerances and I normally start at 95 degrees, operate it at 85 degrees and at the end lower the temperature to 65 degrees to make the pinch again a little bit tighter that there is again some force to take something off from the pinch.

Simple enough, thanks for the help

Did you put the heating elements right on the engine? Is it enough to just heat the oil?

I did, it does heat up the sleeve directly. When it shows 80 degrees I am pretty sure the sleeve is also close to the 80 degrees.

The EBIS just has 2 heaters hanging in the oil with the temp sensor of the heater nearby. That is important because the heating is slow and if the temp senso is too far away from the sensors it will become very hot arround the heaters with the chance of burning the oil.
But that is why the EBIS has a 2nd temperature reader, that will read the oil on the other side of the bath which will give a right indication to start the electric motor.

I have some material to make 2 new ones, I think I will mount the heaters and the temp sensor on the frame holding the motors.

Heating the oil will be fine. The engine is surrounded by the oil and it will always be the same temperature as the oil.

What do you think about mounting the sensor right on top of the sleeve? I just ordered the motor, I have 2 brand new motors I need to break in, and I don't want to do it the old way

You can do whatever you want, the only thing you have to take care of is that the temperature sensor of the heat controler can not be placed to far from the heaters if you just let it hang in the oil. These cartridge heaters can heat up to very high temperatures in a few seconds, if the sensor is not nearby to directly sense the heat from the heaters oil will burn.

I did mount the heaters and the sensor on a head that is placed on the sleeve. It is the fastest and the most constant way to heat the sleeve

I wonder if there are any aquarium pumps that could withstand hot oil. That would be a good way to circulate the oil to prevent overheating the oil near the heating element.

Yes there are. No aquarium but enough to find for hot fluids but there is no need to.....
By te way, an aquarium pump will work if you just pump air into the bath from out of a corner. The fluid will float arround.

Most simple thing is using a simple plate of aluminium or a bit niicer an old flat Pentium or 486 heatsink, mount the heaters and sensor on it and hang it in the bath. If you do that, besure the sleeve will stay put, one headbolt with a spacer is enough.

Is the distance from the motor mount to the center of the crank the same on the O.S. and Novarossi?

With OS and Novarossi I believe so, Picco for sure has a 0.5mm difference.

Wondering if there is one specific oil that is supposed to be used for ebis. I don’t know what drake is using but I heard just regular motor oil? One guy I talked to I think said he uses red motul? Another I heard uses 2 stroke oil. Also I have heard conflicting stories of what to do after ebis is done. One guy said 1 rich tank then race tune, another said almost still have to do a full break in afterwards just don’t have to take it easy on it. And what’s the right way to know how long each individual motor takes? Is there a measurement that is taken to make sure it’s done? I’m confused.

EBIS is advising Putoline 959 which is a red oil. After some tests we have seen that basically any oil with a viscosity below 10 at 100 degrees C will work and yes, I use simple 0w20 motor oil as I believe most EBIS users do because the simple availabillity.

No full break in is needed, start with a rich setting as if you are over the half of a normal break in. And then with a 2 up to 5 tanks you can finish the break in. With most engines not more than 3 tanks is needed.

Does any one know how long the waiting list for the EBIS and the cost. I'v been trying to get on the list and get more information on ordering one.

Thank you. Any idea why some guys are using 2 stroke oil?