Tekno RC ET410 Thread
#181
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
So which of these would you guys go with and why? I know Matt gave his input on what those guys were running. I just can't decide so I was wanting to see what you guys were going to use and why. Thanks.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...020230/p742128
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...020421/p604317
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-r...tt2753/p464776
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...020230/p742128
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...020421/p604317
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-r...tt2753/p464776
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GoolRC-550-.../142783448794?
#182
So who’s gonna be the nice person with too much time on their hands to make a list with part numbers of what parts are different between the EB and ET? Essentially, if I wanted to convert my spare EB410 to an ET410, what do I need to get and how much is it going to cost me? At least can do that comparison first before likely deciding to opt for the full kit. Thanks in advance.
#183
If I can get the SCT Pro ESC to fit, then I'll definitely go with a 4 pole SCT motor... only problem is that this might be too much power, I had tested this motor in a Hyper10TT on our turf track and it would tend to do wheelies if you punched the throttle too hard:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GoolRC-550-.../142783448794?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GoolRC-550-.../142783448794?
#184
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
For you guys all discussing what power plant to run, I would take note of the following statement from Matt W.
Matt - Probably would recommend a 10.5 for something similar to 13.5 in a buggy. I personally run a 6.5 in it and it’s pretty fast. Pro4 4600 will run in it but it has a lot of power and will need to be turned down in the esc.
So my suggestion is treat it like a 4wd buggy for Mod and start with your normal 6.5 / 5.5 and see how it feels. For Stock guys, 10.5 motors. I personally won't have a truck for a few months, but my intention is to try the 13.5 that's currently in my buggy and just swap it over and see how it feels. I'll also try a 10.5 if I have one laying around still. I plan on running a 6.5 in it though because I doubt that we'll have enough initially to split the class into stock and mod.
Which brings me to another point. Since this class is new, I suggest that you get together with people from your track and discuss if you guys are going to run spec, mod, or just open. At least for the first month or two until you can get more people driving them.
Matt - Probably would recommend a 10.5 for something similar to 13.5 in a buggy. I personally run a 6.5 in it and it’s pretty fast. Pro4 4600 will run in it but it has a lot of power and will need to be turned down in the esc.
So my suggestion is treat it like a 4wd buggy for Mod and start with your normal 6.5 / 5.5 and see how it feels. For Stock guys, 10.5 motors. I personally won't have a truck for a few months, but my intention is to try the 13.5 that's currently in my buggy and just swap it over and see how it feels. I'll also try a 10.5 if I have one laying around still. I plan on running a 6.5 in it though because I doubt that we'll have enough initially to split the class into stock and mod.
Which brings me to another point. Since this class is new, I suggest that you get together with people from your track and discuss if you guys are going to run spec, mod, or just open. At least for the first month or two until you can get more people driving them.
#187
So which of these would you guys go with and why? I know Matt gave his input on what those guys were running. I just can't decide so I was wanting to see what you guys were going to use and why. Thanks.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...020230/p742128
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...020421/p604317
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-r...tt2753/p464776
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...020230/p742128
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...020421/p604317
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-r...tt2753/p464776
#188
Hey Matt,
I see the recommended SCT wheels for the ET410 are for the Traxxas Slash offset... long story short, I'm currently boycotting Traxxas and would also like to re-use the same wheels that I already have mounted for my SCT410 if possible... are there any plans to make a hex adapter (possibly new axle?) to support zero offset SCT wheels?
Normally I'd run ST wheels, I'm currently running an XT2'17 with T4 wheels anyway, but ProLine doesn't currently sell Pin Points (or Pyramids) for ST and PinPoints are doing extremely well for my SCT with average wear of about 1 year of racing before the tires wear at the turf track in my area. In contrast I only get about 6-8 race days on a set of Prisms for ST.
If I do go with Slash compatible wheels, they will definitely be sourced from an aftermarket company, but it would be nice to share the same wheels with my SCT410 to help save space in my pit box
I see the recommended SCT wheels for the ET410 are for the Traxxas Slash offset... long story short, I'm currently boycotting Traxxas and would also like to re-use the same wheels that I already have mounted for my SCT410 if possible... are there any plans to make a hex adapter (possibly new axle?) to support zero offset SCT wheels?
Normally I'd run ST wheels, I'm currently running an XT2'17 with T4 wheels anyway, but ProLine doesn't currently sell Pin Points (or Pyramids) for ST and PinPoints are doing extremely well for my SCT with average wear of about 1 year of racing before the tires wear at the turf track in my area. In contrast I only get about 6-8 race days on a set of Prisms for ST.
If I do go with Slash compatible wheels, they will definitely be sourced from an aftermarket company, but it would be nice to share the same wheels with my SCT410 to help save space in my pit box

Not sure why your tire wear is so drastically different between those treads. Is your SC 2wd or 4wd? You could also try JC tires.
#189
#190
So who’s gonna be the nice person with too much time on their hands to make a list with part numbers of what parts are different between the EB and ET? Essentially, if I wanted to convert my spare EB410 to an ET410, what do I need to get and how much is it going to cost me? At least can do that comparison first before likely deciding to opt for the full kit. Thanks in advance.
#191
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,474
From: El Mirage, AZ, USA
what was the reasoning behind doing a 1/10th Truggy instead of a 1/10 short course? There has never been this class why now? And to top it off, that is the most hideous body I have ever seen. Looks like a friggin tadpole
#192
Everyone has an opinion on every RC body that's out there, we can't please everyone so we go with what we like. Won't be too hard to fit some other style body on the truck if you want to do that.
#194
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,410
From: Austin,TX
No plans for hex adapters to fit zero offset wheels. They'll fit, but be way narrow. you'd need an adapter that's about 12mm wider than stock.
Not sure why your tire wear is so drastically different between those treads. Is your SC 2wd or 4wd? You could also try JC tires.
Not sure why your tire wear is so drastically different between those treads. Is your SC 2wd or 4wd? You could also try JC tires.
I'm comparing tire wear between 2WD ST (7.5T motor) with ProLine Prism Z3 against 4WD SCT (550-4300KV) with ProLine PinPoint Z3
Something about 2WD tends to cause the rear wheels to wear faster on turf, folks are reporting faster tire wear on 2WD Buggy vs 4WD Buggy too... used to be 2WD buggy was the most popular class but now 13.5T Wheeler is the main event every week. Presumably because 4WD tires wear longer at our club.
Nobody has any definitive reason why, but some folks are thinking that 4WD is more efficient with less tire scrub.
The biggest factor in longevity between Prism and PinPoint is the pin length... the Prism is very small, and once the pins start to round off, then traction dies off pretty quick... Pin Point is a really long narrow pin which can dig in deep into the turf... with a fresh set of pins, the car tends to be VERY twitchy where you need to dial back the D/R, then over time as the pins start to wear, then you can add some D/R to where the pins eventually wear down to the size of rounded Prism pins and that takes roughly a year of racing to get there


As far as JC tire compounds go, they don't make anything nearly as hard as the Z3 that ProLine sells... on turf, you want the hardest compound possible so the pins don't fold over, harder compound gives better traction and longer wear life

Only drawback to Z3 is that they are such a hard compound that they can be VERY difficult to glue, sometimes I will run a path of glue around the wheel bead first, then quickly snap the tire onto the bead before the glue sets up, ha!
Last edited by billdelong; 07-27-2018 at 05:50 PM.
#195





469Likes
just not many races left around here to justify buying and i dont want to stare at it tell next yr but my 6yr old will love his birthday gift in March