Got a chassis skin? i know I can save a good amount of weight by removing mine, but I just can't bring myself to do it.

nope. I had the generic ProTek one on there and it lasted less than 4 minutes.

Set up isn't quite there yet. Pushing a bit on power but working it all out.

Those are Positrons? If so, have you reversed the front tread? Or maybe the back....

A question regardings batterys.

What amount of Mah do you use when racing?

I recieved new Arrowmax batterys of 5000 Mah yesterday as my 4200 Mah felt a Little bit weak after a couple of minutes. Weight wise the 4200 Mah was perfect but not Power wise.

I'm at 1645 without pucks, or ceramics.

All Titanium is on there, aluminum caps, exotek rear diff mount, all tekno CF.

Haven't put hubs on yet. And yes, a full size battery. If I ran a slim one I would be under weight.

I had a mattox skin on there for a while, until my rear diff housing broke, and I had to get under it. I was shocked at the weight savings. Those running mod that want to add weight, a thick skin is the way to go. almost 30g's IIRC, and add's it as low as possible on the car. Mine lasted 2 months till I had to remove it.

I run ProMatch 120C-6Ah LiHV, the club in my area checks voltage before the mains to verify 8.40V max limit. No loss of punch throughout an 8 min main on turf plus 3-4 practice laps. On turf, a little more weight is a good thing to help settle the car so it's not as twitchy.

Run these packs here as well. 1/10 4wd is full mod but I run it in a 13.5 configuration. weather charged up to max lipo voltage or LIHV voltage, packs run great, consistent through out run, no fade.

I also run these in 17.5 2wd charged to max lipo legal voltage and same performance there.

Now just need the driver to be more consistent with no fade ...

I'm in Shock. At a week moment, I ordered the MIP full Pucks and the B64 type setup layout. I don't know what came over me. I love my Tekno, far more than my B64. Guess I am a sucker for giving something a try. It will probably be unique on my track. What other dummy would buy a Eb410, full Pucks, and a full MIP new chassis. I'll post pictures and thoughts, when I get it May, I believe. Hey, at least the corner marshals may put me back on the track, the correct direction.

Do the pucks work with slipper setup? I thought it didn't?

Maybe I am wrong. But I believe this is the story: Spool and Slipper are 100% locked between the front and rear of the vehicle. The Slipper only slips to the Motor. This puts to much force on pucks. Pretty sure Exotek says there equipment is compatible with pucks, but I would not do it. I'm not a big slipper person for Stock racking, and not sure a slipper is needed. Well, at least on clay.

I was told that the new updated stronger out drives for the Exotek spool will accept the MIP puck's and the stock drive shafts. I have not seen a slipper that would accept pucks.

I'm ordering the schelle slipper assembly. I'll probably run that in the middle of the car with the pucks front and rear.

lol there's nothing wrong with it at all. It's just another hopup and we all love hopups But now you have to get into the amain for 13.5 classes because that chassis is supposed to favor spec racing according to MIP

I'll be giving these batteries a shot next time I go out. They are lighter than my current lightest Protek by 10 grams but they still have about the same capacity when charged to 8.4 volts. And they are only marginally thinner than my current batteries which means mounting will require less foam I am also shaving roughly 15 grams on the ESC side with a new ORCA b32 ESC and 14ga wire. I'm thinking with the Raceform tray installed I'll probably be in the ballpark of 1650-1640g full race weight, and then 16 grams lighter once I get the new lightweight body

https://www.teamtrinity.com/2S-74v-4...ets_p_459.html