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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 03-08-2018, 08:46 AM
  #3961  
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That top hole of the exotek hubs combined with the diff shims will make it so the dog bones won't have enough engagement while in full droop.

I was able to make these HB rear axle rebuild kit longer dog bones resolve the issue. You have to do some minor filing so they fit the outdrives properly but its minimal.
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Old 03-08-2018, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy View Post
That top hole of the exotek hubs combined with the diff shims will make it so the dog bones won't have enough engagement while in full droop.

I was able to make these HB rear axle rebuild kit longer dog bones resolve the issue. You have to do some minor filing so they fit the outdrives properly but its minimal.
I think I got the top and bottom confused. Looks like a decent option if you need to run that setup. On clay I haven't needed the shims
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Old 03-08-2018, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by charvel74 View Post
I'm currently not running that forward shock setup I wasn't happy how the dog bones align with the outdrives it didn't insert far enough in so I managed to break to outdrives in the process I put all the shims in the rear of the arms to try to push everything forward to correct the angle but still it's not good enough
The arm needs to be shaved down 1.5mm when you flip them around, otherwise the hub is too far forward when compared to stock setup.
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Old 03-08-2018, 08:54 AM
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Here are some pics, I may have already posted these, but don't remember.
Tekno RC EB410 Thread-img_2604-2.jpg
Tekno RC EB410 Thread-img_2606-2.jpg
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Old 03-08-2018, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
I think I got the top and bottom confused. Looks like a decent option if you need to run that setup. On clay I haven't needed the shims
You are right it didn't prove to be necessary on my clay track. I have just been playing around with extremes setup changes so I can identify the changes better. I don't feel I tend to pick up on the subtle differences so when I do extreme changes I can tell right away what the affect may be then tone it down till I like it.

I don't race (yet) but I enjoy being fast and in control on the track!
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Old 03-08-2018, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy View Post
You are right it didn't prove to be necessary on my clay track. I have just been playing around with extremes setup changes so I can identify the changes better. I don't feel I tend to pick up on the subtle differences so when I do extreme changes I can tell right away what the affect may be then tone it down till I like it.

I don't race (yet) but I enjoy being fast and in control on the track!
That's a very good idea actually. It'll help you in the long run with deciding what setup changes you need rather than guessing I would do it myself but every setup change I do are spoons I don't want to use lol (spoons = energy with Lupus)
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Old 03-08-2018, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
The arm needs to be shaved down 1.5mm when you flip them around, otherwise the hub is too far forward when compared to stock setup.
I did shave them down but I think the exotek hubs m8ght have exaggerated the problem
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Old 03-08-2018, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by charvel74 View Post
I did shave them down but I think the exotek hubs m8ght have exaggerated the problem
I believe the Exotek hubs replicate stock geometry so they shouldn't make it any worse, unless you're using the hinge pin hole that's closer to the axle, which I wouldn't recommend.
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Old 03-08-2018, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I believe the Exotek hubs replicate stock geometry so they shouldn't make it any worse, unless you're using the hinge pin hole that's closer to the axle, which I wouldn't recommend.
That's what I did . I thought it would help the geometry when using the diff risers
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Old 03-08-2018, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
That's a very good idea actually. It'll help you in the long run with deciding what setup changes you need rather than guessing I would do it myself but every setup change I do are spoons I don't want to use lol (spoons = energy with Lupus)
Understanding setups is a big part of the hobby that I like. Its fun to play with and learn what does what too me anyhow.

Rarely has someone else's setup worked for me without changing something slightly to suit me.
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Old 03-08-2018, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy View Post
Understanding setups is a big part of the hobby that I like. Its fun to play with and learn what does what too me anyhow.

Rarely has someone else's setup worked for me without changing something slightly to suit me.
Same here as far as using someone elses setup. I usually start with the kit setup and work from them or in my current case, I went with the recommended 13.5 setup and made my own changes where I felt I needed it. Like I run no front sway bar and my ride height is different than what the setup asks for. Mostly just the shocks and diffs are the same as the recommended setup lol
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Old 03-08-2018, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by charvel74 View Post
That's what I did . I thought it would help the geometry when using the diff risers
Are you using the optional C and D plates when you're using the riser pads?
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Old 03-08-2018, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
Same here as far as using someone elses setup. I usually start with the kit setup and work from them or in my current case, I went with the recommended 13.5 setup and made my own changes where I felt I needed it. Like I run no front sway bar and my ride height is different than what the setup asks for. Mostly just the shocks and diffs are the same as the recommended setup lol
I just changed to the 13.5 setup. Going to give it go this weekend hopefully. Who knows where it will end up at though.
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Old 03-08-2018, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Are you using the optional C and D plates when you're using the riser pads?
Yes
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Old 03-08-2018, 02:17 PM
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Is the EB410 a good choice for 13.5 spec class on high traction turf or does it need a bunch of upgrades/fixes out of the box to be competitive. I am torn between this buggy and the XB4 2018.
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