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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 01-15-2018, 04:33 PM
  #3211  
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Got a chassis skin? i know I can save a good amount of weight by removing mine, but I just can't bring myself to do it.
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Old 01-15-2018, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by blueflagger View Post
Got a chassis skin? i know I can save a good amount of weight by removing mine, but I just can't bring myself to do it.
nope. I had the generic ProTek one on there and it lasted less than 4 minutes.
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Old 01-15-2018, 06:18 PM
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Set up isn't quite there yet. Pushing a bit on power but working it all out.
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Old 01-15-2018, 06:52 PM
  #3214  
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Those are Positrons? If so, have you reversed the front tread? Or maybe the back....
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:40 AM
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A question regardings batterys.

What amount of Mah do you use when racing?

I recieved new Arrowmax batterys of 5000 Mah yesterday as my 4200 Mah felt a Little bit weak after a couple of minutes. Weight wise the 4200 Mah was perfect but not Power wise.
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Old 01-16-2018, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
My car is 1741 WITH Pucks

I have the Exotek rear hubs and rear center diff mount. All carbon, Titanium turnbuckles, Full Ceramic kit.
I'm at 1645 without pucks, or ceramics.

All Titanium is on there, aluminum caps, exotek rear diff mount, all tekno CF.

Haven't put hubs on yet. And yes, a full size battery. If I ran a slim one I would be under weight.

I had a mattox skin on there for a while, until my rear diff housing broke, and I had to get under it. I was shocked at the weight savings. Those running mod that want to add weight, a thick skin is the way to go. almost 30g's IIRC, and add's it as low as possible on the car. Mine lasted 2 months till I had to remove it.
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Old 01-16-2018, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ljungberg View Post
A question regardings batterys.

What amount of Mah do you use when racing?

I recieved new Arrowmax batterys of 5000 Mah yesterday as my 4200 Mah felt a Little bit weak after a couple of minutes. Weight wise the 4200 Mah was perfect but not Power wise.

I run ProMatch 120C-6Ah LiHV, the club in my area checks voltage before the mains to verify 8.40V max limit. No loss of punch throughout an 8 min main on turf plus 3-4 practice laps. On turf, a little more weight is a good thing to help settle the car so it's not as twitchy.
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Old 01-16-2018, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
I run ProMatch 120C-6Ah LiHV, the club in my area checks voltage before the mains to verify 8.40V max limit. No loss of punch throughout an 8 min main on turf plus 3-4 practice laps. On turf, a little more weight is a good thing to help settle the car so it's not as twitchy.
Run these packs here as well. 1/10 4wd is full mod but I run it in a 13.5 configuration. weather charged up to max lipo voltage or LIHV voltage, packs run great, consistent through out run, no fade.

I also run these in 17.5 2wd charged to max lipo legal voltage and same performance there.

Now just need the driver to be more consistent with no fade ...
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:40 AM
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I'm in Shock. At a week moment, I ordered the MIP full Pucks and the B64 type setup layout. I don't know what came over me. I love my Tekno, far more than my B64. Guess I am a sucker for giving something a try. It will probably be unique on my track. What other dummy would buy a Eb410, full Pucks, and a full MIP new chassis. I'll post pictures and thoughts, when I get it May, I believe. Hey, at least the corner marshals may put me back on the track, the correct direction.
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by sea1swk View Post
I'm in Shock. At a week moment, I ordered the MIP full Pucks and the B64 type setup layout. I don't know what came over me. I love my Tekno, far more than my B64. Guess I am a sucker for giving something a try. It will probably be unique on my track. What other dummy would buy a Eb410, full Pucks, and a full MIP new chassis. I'll post pictures and thoughts, when I get it May, I believe. Hey, at least the corner marshals may put me back on the track, the correct direction.
Do the pucks work with slipper setup? I thought it didn't?
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Do the pucks work with slipper setup? I thought it didn't?
Maybe I am wrong. But I believe this is the story: Spool and Slipper are 100% locked between the front and rear of the vehicle. The Slipper only slips to the Motor. This puts to much force on pucks. Pretty sure Exotek says there equipment is compatible with pucks, but I would not do it. I'm not a big slipper person for Stock racking, and not sure a slipper is needed. Well, at least on clay.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Do the pucks work with slipper setup? I thought it didn't?
I was told that the new updated stronger out drives for the Exotek spool will accept the MIP puck's and the stock drive shafts. I have not seen a slipper that would accept pucks.
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Old 01-16-2018, 11:00 AM
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I'm ordering the schelle slipper assembly. I'll probably run that in the middle of the car with the pucks front and rear.
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by sea1swk View Post
I'm in Shock. At a week moment, I ordered the MIP full Pucks and the B64 type setup layout. I don't know what came over me. I love my Tekno, far more than my B64. Guess I am a sucker for giving something a try. It will probably be unique on my track. What other dummy would buy a Eb410, full Pucks, and a full MIP new chassis. I'll post pictures and thoughts, when I get it May, I believe. Hey, at least the corner marshals may put me back on the track, the correct direction.
lol there's nothing wrong with it at all. It's just another hopup and we all love hopups But now you have to get into the amain for 13.5 classes because that chassis is supposed to favor spec racing according to MIP
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Old 01-16-2018, 01:03 PM
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I'll be giving these batteries a shot next time I go out. They are lighter than my current lightest Protek by 10 grams but they still have about the same capacity when charged to 8.4 volts. And they are only marginally thinner than my current batteries which means mounting will require less foam I am also shaving roughly 15 grams on the ESC side with a new ORCA b32 ESC and 14ga wire. I'm thinking with the Raceform tray installed I'll probably be in the ballpark of 1650-1640g full race weight, and then 16 grams lighter once I get the new lightweight body

https://www.teamtrinity.com/2S-74v-4...ets_p_459.html
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