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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 01-18-2018, 12:02 PM
  #3241  
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Default 13.5 Tekin Spec R guys only Running 70T spur gear

what timing and range of pinions are working best for smaller indoor clay tracks
Im at 42ish timing on motor and 23T pinion thanks
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Old 01-18-2018, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
54.35mm Luckily i'm working late shifts so I'm still home to check lol
cool thanks

Got some of the exotek rear carriers on the way, some of those exotek diff forks, and a weight set to try out. curious by adding some weight in the rear if it will help with alittle bit of bounce.


Been hearing on facebook about some chassis issues and seems like some are getting a lot of broken bulkhead issues, anyone know more about this? the chassis thing some are saying is a defect from factory?

As for the spur gear issue, I wonder if some of the flex may also be seen by the spur gear setup itself versus being mounted to a metal 'cover' like the exotek aftermarket one.
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Old 01-18-2018, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
what timing and range of pinions are working best for smaller indoor clay tracks
Im at 42ish timing on motor and 23T pinion thanks

Didn't see the title, my bad.

With the spec-R, we can't run the 70t spur. Just won't go low enough and get proper mesh.

I'm 23t/81, and 50ish for endbell...the timing line is just past 50°...Comes off at 125° after a normal 5 minute run, and 145° after a 7 minute main with a few warm up laps.

running the WTF fan on the tekno center brace.

Last edited by ezlight; 01-18-2018 at 01:21 PM. Reason: sea1swk smack some sense into me
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Old 01-18-2018, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
what timing and range of pinions are working best for smaller indoor clay tracks
Im at 42ish timing on motor and 23T pinion thanks
21/70 with Maclan 13.5 v2 at 48 degree. It is fast.

title says 13.5 Tekin Spec R, I've read those you gear down a couple of teeth.

Others at the track i race on, indoor clay, run about 23/70, with various motors.
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Old 01-18-2018, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
what timing and range of pinions are working best for smaller indoor clay tracks
Im at 42ish timing on motor and 23T pinion thanks
23/81 40-50 degrees of timing is usually where I'm at. If your straightaway is less than 100 ft I'd go down on pinion to a 22 and see how it feels.
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Old 01-18-2018, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post

Been hearing on facebook about some chassis issues and seems like some are getting a lot of broken bulkhead issues, anyone know more about this? the chassis thing some are saying is a defect from factory?
I don't think the broken front bulkhead is a defect, per se. I see a possible design issue, but not a defect. This may have been mentioned before, but compare the plastic front brace to the CF front brace. The plastic version has some features that prevent the tower from moving too far backwards. The CF version doesn't have this. I've not made the switch to the CF front brace and have not broken a tower or bulkhead during normal use and some hard crashes. There is enough flex in the design to strip the lower tower screws, but not enough to break the bulkhead.

The new piece from ProStar RC will tie the Tower and the front brace together. If I could make a recommendation to Tekno, this is a concept they should borrow for the .2 or perhaps a new version of the front brace.
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Old 01-18-2018, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
cool thanks

Got some of the exotek rear carriers on the way, some of those exotek diff forks, and a weight set to try out. curious by adding some weight in the rear if it will help with alittle bit of bounce.


Been hearing on facebook about some chassis issues and seems like some are getting a lot of broken bulkhead issues, anyone know more about this? the chassis thing some are saying is a defect from factory?

As for the spur gear issue, I wonder if some of the flex may also be seen by the spur gear setup itself versus being mounted to a metal 'cover' like the exotek aftermarket one.
For the chassis issue it is really mostly from people running on highly abrasive tracks that essentially sands down the kickup on the chassis until it is thin enough to snap from a front end impact. For those instances we need either rhino skin chassis protectors or modify the TBR front bumper to make it a skid lol. They were reporting 50+ packs on the chassis before any breakage so a decent amount of run time and a lot of abuse on a rough track.

I think some sort of chassis update can improve durability on those tracks but I feel like it is a niche issue because I have one of the thinnest chassis protectors available and after about 10 packs my chassis protector looks great aside from some scratches. And that's on a clay track.
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Old 01-18-2018, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
23/81 40-50 degrees of timing is usually where I'm at. If your straightaway is less than 100 ft I'd go down on pinion to a 22 and see how it feels.
I ran the Monster Max 24-70 with 51 degrees of timing at CRCRC and it was a rocket.
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Old 01-18-2018, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
I ran the Monster Max 24-70 with 51 degrees of timing at CRCRC and it was a rocket.
I run the same motor and use a 28/81 (after taking the Exotek Spool out). What type of track are you running on. Am I missing something??
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Old 01-18-2018, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sea1swk View Post
21/70 with Maclan 13.5 v2 at 48 degree. It is fast.

title says 13.5 Tekin Spec R, I've read those you gear down a couple of teeth.

Others at the track i race on, indoor clay, run about 23/70, with various motors.
yeah, I tried 70 and cant get close mesh I also have 21 22 23
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Old 01-18-2018, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rvrslt1 View Post
I run the same motor and use a 28/81 (after taking the Exotek Spool out). What type of track are you running on. Am I missing something??
you're about half a tooth higher than me. its not far off.

I'm at 7.291 fdr
You're at 7.232 fdr
27/81 = 7.5 fdr
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Old 01-18-2018, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
you're about half a tooth higher than me. its not far off.

I'm at 7.291 fdr
You're at 7.232 fdr
27/81 = 7.5 fdr
Ok. Just making sure I was not doing something way off.
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Old 01-18-2018, 06:39 PM
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I've been tinkering with the shocks and shock oil on my eb410. I originally had stock pistons with 650 front with red springs and 400 rear with orange springs. Car seemed ok on an indoor clay track with medium grip. Changed shock fluids to 37.5 front and 30 rear. The front seems very stiff and non responsive....the rear seems like its in a bounce house. What's a good shock set up for this type of track?
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Old 01-18-2018, 06:53 PM
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Most guys are drilling out the rear pistons to 2.0 with 650cst or 2.1 with 725cst. Pink springs rear seems to be the new setup. Mason was running those last week. Still red or orange springs with 1.7/650cst front
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Old 01-18-2018, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by b121774 View Post
Most guys are drilling out the rear pistons to 2.0 with 650cst or 2.1 with 725cst. Pink springs rear seems to be the new setup. Mason was running those last week. Still red or orange springs with 1.7/650cst front
Thanks for the info. I'll probably go back to 650 frt and 400 rear. The car seemed more planted and responsive. Maybe experiment with drilling the pistons as well.
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